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Thinking about the timing. Vacuum leak and/or exhaust leak could cause MAP sensor to pull timing, same if the O2s was sensing a lean condition.
This sounds kind of familiar. :ermm:
 
Discussion starter · #1,642 ·
Got most of the wiring done and tried testing the active runner solenoid out. Couldn’t get it working, had to take the manifold back off to check it out and found the housing around the connector is broken so I don’t think it’s usable. So now I gotta find a replacement solenoid, $180 new...4th gen parts trucks are non-existent around here unfortunately
 
Went out to the ole Garage ….looked at the core motor my nephew picked up , it has the car intake..
 
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Discussion starter · #1,646 ·
Back up and running. I will have to order a new actuator. Also need a better solution for the fuel line hookup, right now I’m using a 5/16 AN compression fitting and there is a very slow leak letting some drops of fuel out. Can’t have that. Might have to braze an AN fitting to the rail.
 
Discussion starter · #1,647 ·
Took a quick video

[yt]O6IF3dCOi3k[/yt]
 
Discussion starter · #1,648 ·
Side note, make sure the MAP sensor is installed in the manifold before you fire it up. Man will that freak the motor out. Fired up and immediately jumps to 3000 rpms and sounds like it wants to runaway.
 
Back up and running. I will have to order a new actuator. Also need a better solution for the fuel line hookup, right now I’m using a 5/16 AN compression fitting and there is a very slow leak letting some drops of fuel out. Can’t have that. Might have to braze an AN fitting to the rail.

Can you use the factory 4th gen fuel line hookup (hardline to fuel rail)? Maybe the LX one?
 
Took a quick video

[yt]O6IF3dCOi3k[/yt]

Sounds good! No big deal running it without the active part disabled, it's still a better manifold than the 3rd gen even stuck in long runner mode, you just won't get as much higher RPM pull.
 
Discussion starter · #1,652 ·
Sounds good! No big deal running it without the active part disabled, it's still a better manifold than the 3rd gen even stuck in long runner mode, you just won't get as much higher RPM pull.
Yeah it’s been raining hard for the past day so I haven’t been able to go all the way out past 5k rpms yet without spinning. Did make a 35-85 pull getting on the highway and it felt awesome. I’m not sure what the factory fuel line looks like, but whatever I do I want to retain AN style fittings for future upgrades
 
Yeah it’s been raining hard for the past day so I haven’t been able to go all the way out past 5k rpms yet without spinning. Did make a 35-85 pull getting on the highway and it felt awesome. I’m not sure what the factory fuel line looks like, but whatever I do I want to retain AN style fittings for future upgrades

Noice...you won't want the factory fuel line then, it's a quick disconnect just like all the others.
 
Discussion starter · #1,654 ·
So engine temps are hanging around 210-212 on the highway, and they spike when I make a pull. I don’t think the stock radiator is able to keep up. Wiring in the efan to the high speed didn’t help drop the temp any lower. And it’s still waiting till 220 degrees for the thermostat to open. I’m using a 180 degree stat so something isn’t working correctly. I’ll try swapping stats out one more time and then look into a better radiator replacement
 
The first thing I'd do is to test the thermostat in a pan of water, bringing up the temp until the stat starts to open and continuing until it is completely open. At a idle with the efan running my 170 will pull the temp down to 183.
 
Water test it and see what it is actually open at like stated above. The higher compression will make for a little higher temps but it should be able to keep the guage right at 1/2 or just below all day
 
Discussion starter · #1,657 ·
Water test it and see what it is actually open at like stated above. The higher compression will make for a little higher temps but it should be able to keep the guage right at 1/2 or just below all day
It started doing this about a month before I did the heads. After I did the timing cover swap and efan it ran ok until the weather got above 60-70 degrees, and all of a sudden started running hotter then ever. I think it used to hang in the mid 190’s
 
Discussion starter · #1,659 ·
Definitely check the thermostat...did you use a new/reman water pump or did one come with the LX cover? Were you able to properly burp the system?
I ordered a new stat from Moe’s, hopefully here by end of the week. It’s a used lx pump that came with the timing cover. It’s been in the back of my mind that it could be causing problems and if a new stat and some better flowing radiator hoses doesn’t fix the problem I’ll replace the pump
 
Never took this into thinking. I wonder if the pump does not flow as much as the truck does since it never really sees the loads we see the volume may be less that would add more heat. It’s a possibility.
 
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