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Discussion starter · #1,381 ·
Yeah with the eagle truck intake it’s hitting the back of the coolant temp area. That’s the only reason I need to make 3/8”-1/2” spacers for the intake. I can cut enough of the timing cover to clear but it’s still hitting the block
 
Discussion starter · #1,382 ·
I even tried reforming the intake by heating it up and clamping the intake down but didn’t really get anything out of it. Charonblk07 had luck but I didn’t
 
Discussion starter · #1,384 ·
I’ll tell anyone but my wife the costs. It really helps knowing what you are getting yourselves into. I would easily figure on $4500 to start out with for a short block. If you plan on a good set of worked over heads then figure an extra 1 or 2 grand. That’s counting in decent machine work to start with a clean block, ARP fasteners, good quality gaskets, valve train, timing and oil pump, it all adds up quick. I like to bargain shop, I bought a lot of second hand parts and looked for deals when possible
 
The crate motor is built with all oem high performance components. The stroker motor is built with the parts of your choosing. I don't think you can buy the individual parts for $14k. Plus it is already sc. Say you buy a pre built stroker short block for $5000. BV cnc ported Heads for $2500. Intake manifold $1000, 90MM BBK TB $550. Lifters/cam $1100. Damper, ARP studs, oil pump, pan, water pump, injectors/fuel rail gasketd around $2000. Ignition system $500. Supercharger $6000. Stroker aftermarket components are generally rated 600hp. Many of us run them at a much higher level. If you build a 6.1 block with top components you can add 30% to the cost of the short block. And this would a Hellcat clone and handle 1000hp. Building a high hp engine is not for the faint of heart. And this is not counting the pieces that fail testing and go into the trash that have to be bought again.
 
Well just think about this my motor in 2007 cost me $6700 and I have stock heads with oversized valves is all. My engine builder said crank is good to 20psi and it held it first time out with the turbo to around 22psi lol. I have right at 100,000 on my stroker and have had my issues with it but the pistons and rods and crank are all the same from day one and my leakdown is about dead on nothing seals great.

If you can swing a stroker motor don’t skimp or you might as well toss your money in the trash.
 
Also when looking at short blocks or long blocks check to see what they are asking for core charge. The core can sometimes be negotiated. Not wanting to discourage anyone, but build it the best you can. But added up $14k is a good deal..
 
But this is also assuming of using boost in some way. I mean I have prices procharger at 6500. So I would think a good NA stroker would be considerably cheaper than 14k. I guess it comes with a price though... wanting more hp lol

For that matter why not just buy a procharger, run 6 psi and you'll be at 500 hp. Seems easier. From what I have read 6 psi works with stock internals. Trans would go before motor
 
Discussion starter · #1,391 ·
I don’t really understand all the guys infatuated with putting an actual hellcat or demon engine in their vehichle. There isn’t all that much that’s super special about it, just a beefed up 6.2 Hemi with a supercharger. The only great thing about it is having a warrentied motor that’s putting out 700 go from the factory, but Hemi guys have been doing that for years. Plus all the extra work converting their vehichle to run everything. Building the engine that came in the truck is just much simpler in the long run. If you aren’t mechanically inclined or have access to tools/space, then getting a built short block is a great idea. The only thing is it adds up quick once you add better parts to their “package”, $4500 is just the starting point. If you do have some mechanical skills I encourage everyone to build their own. It’s not terribly difficult and the sense of pride when it’s done is WELL worth it. I’m not the greatest mechanic but have been able to build my own engine and transmission and wouldn’t trade that for anything. Most people just get scared of screwing something up.
 
Discussion starter · #1,392 ·
But this is also assuming of using boost in some way. I mean I have prices procharger at 6500. So I would think a good NA stroker would be considerably cheaper than 14k. I guess it comes with a price though... wanting more hp lol

For that matter why not just buy a procharger, run 6 psi and you'll be at 500 hp. Seems easier. From what I have read 6 psi works with stock internals. Trans would go before motor
You can definetly do that and lots of people have. Me personally, 6psi/500hp is just a starting point.
 
So then it becomes about, where do you draw the line. Its every gear heads favorite topic. Most would say there is no line because we always cross it lol.

To be honest building a block does intimidate me a little bit. I put my cam in and did so much research in order to do that but to build a whole engine is next level. I feel like I would need someone with me who has done it before.

I build hydraulic pumps and motors everyday but that is my trade and I have many years of experience. I have the tooling (most of) but lack the knowledge and experience. That's why that 392 short block for 5k seemed like a good deal
 
Discussion starter · #1,394 ·
If you have a line this is definetly the wrong place to be, because you start seeing other people’s ideas and it’s just downhill from there lol
 
have you ever rebuilt an Eaton Hydrokraft PVX & PFX pump ?

If yes you can build an engine.
things to remember,
1) Goal stick to it,
2) Good machine shop to do the work you can't(bore, line bore sleeve install if needed)
3) assemble good parts to work with, Manley, Eagle, Scat,DSS.
4) clean environment to do the assembly
5) good understanding of how to use your tools and rental tools(if needed)
6) learn from those who made mistakes.

if you really want to go with a Hemi short block from one of the established builders, no matter who you pick there are all good builders out there now a days. ,Arrington,A2Speed,muscel motors extreme, inertia, HRH performance,Seidle Motorsports,
 
I cant say I've repaired one of those. But it looks like a variable displacement piston pump. I have tons of experience with Vickers, Sundstrand, Metaris,Sauer Danfoss, and Linde. Each have their merits. The sundstrand deals with proportional controls, they get tricky.

I just get nervous with what I dont know. I really think it would be fun to build one
 
I would say overall yes. I’m still fighting issues with it not running the times I want but I’m confident I’ll get there. I would consider the stroker as a step, it’s not going to make you super fast but it’s got good overall power. I wish I hadn’t of built it with the older small heads because they seem to be a disappointment. But unfortunately that was the budget I had at the time. I was always wanting to boost the truck so now I have a good strong base to get some real power out of it. But you can definetly get some good power out of a 5.7 with the right heads/cam/gears and convertor. If you wanted to build a forged motor it makes the most sense to get a stroker kit because a forged 5.7 motor is almost the same exact cost.
I had the same issue when I first got mine running. I ran a 14 flat my first time out and obviously wasn't happy with that, but I had my 03 pcm with only one tune, which was pulling timing, stock suspension, stock transmission, stock heads, stock intake, and street tires at 36 psi. I have gained a lot of experience since then as well as upgraded everything I have mentioned but have yet to make it back to the track. My butt dyno can tell you for sure all those things have made it a completely different truck. You have the base to make it a monster it's just all the tweeking of the other stuff to make it all work.
One things for sure, without the knowledge base of this group I wouldn't be where I am now.
 
Discussion starter · #1,399 ·
I pulled 8 plugs on the engine just to do a check up. I’m happy to say every cylinder looked the same, all of them were a light brown with no signs of oil like the last time I had major issues. Also I got a new 06-08 sport bumper cover I’m going to get painted and put on, I always like that bumper and finally got around to ordering one
 

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Discussion starter · #1,400 ·
Well I’m bitten by dodges utterly incompetent electrical engineers again. I have the right turn signal and brake light out on my trailer plug. Traced it back to the fuse box not sending power out. The actual fuse is good. Did some research and found out that the front control module controls a relay for the trailer turn signals. Well the problem is those relays are INSIDE the fuse box and soldered directly into the circuit board :banghead: apparently it’s such a common issue that if you google the relay part number everything is listed as “replacement relays for Dodge Ram trailer turn signals”. If I want to fix it correctly I need to order some relays, gear the entire fuse box apart and solder in new relays. If I want to fix it quick, I can just get it make a harness to tap off the rear truck lights. I’m just worried they extra load on that circuit will eventually blow something else in the circuit board. It seems like the interstates power module is not up to handling extra lighting loads, I’ve heard of a bunch of cummins guys blowing them out hooking up plow lights. New fuse boxes and front control modules are normal $500-$1000 to replace if you can’t get a used one
 
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