Hey all...I have an issue that came up today...not sure when the symptoms started. Simply put, battery died out because alternator wasn't charging it, so it seems. I happen to be in the same parking lot as an autozone when my check gauges warning light came on and the gauge showing charging was all the way to the left. Had Autozone check battery, said it was good but needed charging, so I started truck and they said it wasn't getting any volts so we assumed alternator. Bought Alt and drove back to office where the battery totally ran out. Installed new alternator and had a fellow member come by and give it a jump. Started but the gauge didn't go all the way to middle and when I removed jumper cables the gauge went to the left again and drain out. Is there a voltage regulator on our trucks? thanks in advance fellas..
I have a problem
chefred112
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Seems my first post didn't make it. The pcm provides a field voltage to regulate the output voltage. I believe I have read there is a work around for installing a external regulator.
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Here is a diagram.
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Sounds like something is dragging the belt slowing charging and pump down.
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This might also be an opportunity to add the hydroboost.
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If it isn't something obvious maybe take it to a automotive electrical shop and have the pcm checked for field voltage.
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Gas trucks come with vacuum booster assist brakes. Diesel don't have vacuum and use hydraulic (power steering pump) assist brakes. I went to small brake kit and wanted to still have strong brakes so installed the hydraboost. Also some factory high performance cars come with hydraboost (mustang). Pretty much all chevy and dodge trucks use the same unit. May have to redrill two of mounting holes. I got a used 2005 ram 2500 setup off of ebay. I screwed around buying holes I thought would fit. But ended up just having them custom made. The power steering pump output goes to the hydroboost unit the hydraboost output goes to the rack & pinion unit. Rack & pinion goes to cooler. Cooler goes to power steering reservoir with a tee from the hydraboost relief. The only pressure hoses are the pump to hydroboost unit and hydroboost unit to rack & pinion. The system works great IMO for high speed or big tires.
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Let try to post some pictures.
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This looks like a good test procedure.
How to test your alternator on the vehicle: For tech Help with this product call 1-616-785-7990
To check to see if your alternator is working, unplug or remove the two field wires from the back of the alternator. Then ground one of the field terminals on the alternator and jumper the other field terminal to the positive battery post on the back of the alternator. It does not matter which terminal is grounded and which one get positive power. When you connect the ground and positive wires to the field terminals you will get a small spark, this is normal. This is by-passing the voltage control and will cause your alternator to run full blast, if it is working. Put a multi-meter on your battery and run your engine on high idle, do not allow your alternator to charge the battery much over 16 volts. If you find that your alternator is charging when you do this procedure, but does not charge when you connect it back to the computer, this kit will get your alternator working and charging at the proper voltage. The voltage regulator is preset at 14.5 volts. If you want to adjust the voltage regulator you use the screw on the back, but be sure the metal case of the voltage regulator is grounded while you adjust it.
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I think the model years are 03 thru 08. I got mine off of ebay saying it was a 2005. Try to get one with hoses. Even if the hoses don't fit you will have the end fitting that can be reused.
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That's what you want a complete unit.
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Just hand tools. That bottom hose is low pressure return to the reservoir. You will need a tee to connect the hydroboost overflow hose.
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IMO it is one of the better mods.
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That potentially could be a serious problem if the crank is damaged...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-918008
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ati-918008
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Often aftermarket dampers are honed to make installation easier. This can be overdone of course. I have only heard of supercharge engines having this issue. Lets hope it t's the damper that is damaged.
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An after thought, the stroker crank often has keyway(s) as does aftermarket dampers.
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ati damper 918435 is for the 03-08 ram. 4% od 8rib..
Here it is at Arrington, a better price no doubt can be found.
ATI Super Damper Harmonic Damper for 5.7L HEMI Dodge Ram - shopHEMI.com
Here it is at Arrington, a better price no doubt can be found.
ATI Super Damper Harmonic Damper for 5.7L HEMI Dodge Ram - shopHEMI.com
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Our truck uses a 7rib belt and needs the 8rib damper. ATI doesn't make a 7 rib damper. Typically the hemi isn't fully supported and our trucks even less.
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There are countless pulley size combination that can be put together. I have 8rib on mine from a left over conversion I did to drive the super charger at one point.
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Fred, to answer your previous question. The truck pulley has a different offset than the sedans with the different front covers.
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That worked out good for you. If the pulley had come loose it could have tore up a lot of stuff...
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