Hemi Truck Club banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Turbo Mods and Troubleshooting

10 reading
Jump to Latest
341 - 360 of 3,633 Posts
#341 ·
So popped the hood tonight, the rubber boot that was cracked went to the boost gauge. Got my extra fuel line, cut to length, stuck on the vacuum block and boost gauge sensor, problem solved. Last vacuum leak its at my wastegate, the barb coming out wont seal that great and the rubber washer I was using cracked and rotted away. Stupid cheap wastegate..
 
#342 ·
Stardard vacuum line has a burst ratting of about 20 psi on our trucks it's fine just use tiny zip ties and they will stay put just fine use on my truck and used on my old turbo mr2 none blew out or failed ever but if your going for a cleaner look maybe use those nice push and locks I a DIY Er so if it works it's good to go
Image
 
Discussion starter · #343 ·
What happens to a standard vacuum line when it extends all the way back to the rear axle?

When it helps to control the waste gate that prevents over boosting. In my case, vacuum and boost. And with our plastic intake manifolds. I would rather be safe than sorry. It will only need to happen once to destroy an engine.
 
Discussion starter · #344 ·
Originally posted by Carrolls Ram:
Last vacuum leak its at my wastegate, the barb coming out wont seal that great and the rubber washer I was using cracked and rotted away.
Click to expand...

With a vacuum leak on my 03. It idles high and runs like crap. The tune doesn't feel right. That's the other reason why swapped out to better vacuum hoses and fittings.

An important note for us turbo guys: Watch out for condensation inside the W/G diaphragm on the boost side. It will cause sluggish W/G operation.
 
#345 ·
Mine idled fine thankfully but the boost gauge showed something was wrong. Luckily it wasnt a big leak so it still ran decent, but coming home saturday it shifted funny afr started to bounce all over the place etc. Should be good to go now. What I love though is I can unplug my front o2 sensors and the truck runs 10x better. I cant wait to redo some things and get a better wastegate. Be nice to have one that doesnt have a vacuum leak
 
#346 ·
Originally posted by Carrolls Ram:
What I love though is I can unplug my front o2 sensors and the truck runs 10x better. I cant wait to redo some things and get a better wastegate. Be nice to have one that doesnt have a vacuum leak
Click to expand...
Same with mine. It's nice having a rock steady AFR and without the timing jumping around. Be careful though, as the O2 sensors will be sluggish after being unplugged for a few minutes and dead not much long after. They need to stay heated or they foul up.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#347 ·
Originally posted by FrostKing:
Same with mine. It's nice having a rock steady AFR and without the timing jumping around. Be careful though, as the O2 sensors will be sluggish after being unplugged for a few minutes and dead not much long after. They need to stay heated or they foul up.
Click to expand...
I only did that when I was trying to get the injectors scaled right after you recommended it lol. Sometimes I feel like just plugging the holes where the o2s go and just driving like that. But if your truck has been sitting for a few days and you start it up does it run super rich sometimes and finally go back to normal once it warms all the way up?
 
#349 ·
Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:
Hey FrostKing, What's uuuuuuup?
Image


I've been wanting to find out how's the truck?
Image
And of course, how well that front mount turbo worked out?
Image
Click to expand...
The front mount has been the best investment on this truck so far. Zero leaks and all the hot pipes and the turbo itself are wrapped up nice and pretty. Also looks like I have nearly all the electrical stuff setup reliably and looking to make more trips to the track this year after taking the last few years off. The only major project I have now is a few tweaks inside my stage IV transmission and finish installing the PCS transmission controller I bought last year. I will be able to switch between the OEM controller and the new controller without any wiring changes so the chances of being stranded on the side of the road should be reduced somewhat. My crazy dream is to install a factory clutch pedal connected to a potentiometer that engages the torque converter clutch directly and have a gear selector stick to bump the gears up or down. This way, with good tuning, it could drive practically identical to a manual transmission while that mode is selected.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#350 ·
Originally posted by Carrolls Ram:
Originally posted by FrostKing:
Same with mine. It's nice having a rock steady AFR and without the timing jumping around. Be careful though, as the O2 sensors will be sluggish after being unplugged for a few minutes and dead not much long after. They need to stay heated or they foul up.
Click to expand...
I only did that when I was trying to get the injectors scaled right after you recommended it lol. Sometimes I feel like just plugging the holes where the o2s go and just driving like that. But if your truck has been sitting for a few days and you start it up does it run super rich sometimes and finally go back to normal once it warms all the way up?
Click to expand...
Once my factory O2 sensors kick in after a minute the truck idles properly. Your front sensors may be dying as they typically cause an ever-increasingly rich condition as they go out.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#351 ·
I may swap in 2 new sensors that i've got laying on my desk and see if that fixes it. It doesnt do it everytime, but it does it more often than id like.

I'm definitely interested to see ur transmission setup, please take some pics for us lol
 
Discussion starter · #352 ·
Originally posted by FrostKing:
The front mount has been the best investment on this truck so far.
Click to expand...

You know I've gotta ask FrostKing. Especially, since your the one who influenced me to start some turbo mods. And your the one who told me about the T76 turbo would work great with the STS systems with the 5.7 or 6.4 Hemi engines. Your modded STS 3" exhaust piping was very cool.
Image
Image


I've been looking to build a front mount turbo for my truck. One that would work with a 5.7 or 6.4(5.7 Hemi engine block). Any suggestions on this subject would be highly appreciated.
Image
Image
Thanks FrostKing.
 
Discussion starter · #354 ·
If you have a 3" down pipe, it will work Austin.
Image


As far as the T76 turbo, we'll have to ask FrostKing what size A/R exhaust housing he's using on his front mount turbo 392 stroker. And how well it drives on the street with that size A/R exhaust housing.
 
#355 ·
Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:
If you have a 3" down pipe, it will work Austin.
Image


As far as the T76 turbo, we'll have to ask FrostKing what size A/R exhaust housing he's using on his front mount turbo 392 stroker. And how well it drives on the street with that size A/R exhaust housing.
Click to expand...
My current turbo is much too small. (HP-72 with 68mm turbine, .96 A/R) Seems that a .96 is the most often used size on V8 street setups, regardless the compressor size so I would think a T76 with with a .96 housing with a 5.7L engine would be excellent for mid to high RPM torque. Low end torque initially sounds fun, but it ends up being extremely boring when it won't rev past 5000 as is my situation right now and is too touchy for everyday driving.

Once you get over a T76 then the down pipe will start getting larger than 3", unless you look at Borg Warner stuff which is twice as big as everyone else. (for the same power output) If you have an exact turbo model in mind, I can graph it is see how it will run.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#356 ·
Originally posted by FrostKing:
Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:
If you have a 3" down pipe, it will work Austin.
Image


As far as the T76 turbo, we'll have to ask FrostKing what size A/R exhaust housing he's using on his front mount turbo 392 stroker. And how well it drives on the street with that size A/R exhaust housing.
Click to expand...
My current turbo is much too small. (HP-72 with 68mm turbine, .96 A/R - 850HP rated) Seems that a .96 is the most often used size on V8 street setups, regardless the compressor size so I would think a T76 with with a .96 housing with a 5.7L engine would be excellent for mid to high RPM torque. Low end torque initially sounds fun, but it ends up being extremely boring when it won't rev past 5000 as is my situation right now and is too touchy for everyday driving.

Once you get over a T76 then the down pipe will start getting larger than 3", unless you look at Borg Warner stuff which is twice as big as everyone else. (for the same power output) If you have an exact turbo model in mind, I can graph it is see how it will run.
Click to expand...
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#358 ·
I've talked to several perfoance places and they all tell me a borg Warner s475 with a 1.1 a/r would be perfect. Not near asuch heat and they say I should be at full boost by like 3200. Eventually I wanna build a motor to handle a good amount of boost. Damn stock Chevy 4.8l will take 18psi with w/m and a good tune. I'd love to run 18 psi lol

How u think a 5.7 based 370 with an s475 on a 1.1 a/r would work vs a 76 .96a/r? I'd like to rev to shift around 6500.

Driving with the 70mm is definitely touchy, I have to always drive like a granny to stay out of boost, thought it would help mileage but nope.. 11mpg
 
341 - 360 of 3,633 Posts
About this Discussion
3.6K Replies
43 Participants
Last post:
Ghost03hemi
Hemi Truck Club
posts
300K
members
15K
Since
2004
A forum community dedicated to Ram Hemi powered truck owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Florida Chapter New Member Introductions Engine | Modifications, Repairs and Performance General Repair Forum Drivetrain, Differential and Transmission