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Tristyn's 2008 Ram Stroker Build - Build log and advice

15K views 238 replies 10 participants last post by  TRusselo 
#1 · (Edited)
Well hi folks. I'm Tristyn.

Im currently in my first engine build... or paying for one at least... "building remotely" as I like to call it....

Im up in Fort McMurray, and my friend of 20 years, Dan, is down in Edmonton is doing the actual building. Hes been a mechanic for as long as I've known him, but his specialty has been repair, not performance builds, so there are some things even he cant answer for me.

While up til now, I've never been an engine guy, I learn by doing, and jumping in deep.... as you will soon see...

So to start off, I have a 2008 ram 5.7 4x4, minor valvetrain noise at idle, quickly turned into what will be about ~12K$ project mostly due to boredom.
Im keeping the truck forever, its in GREAT condition. i could fix it for under $2000, have a bit of fun on the top end for $4000, but the bottom end would still be 13 years old.....
So screw it! start fresh, just swap it when ready, minimal downtime.

The idea is a daily driver / super street pickup. no plans on going to the track more than once, just for the laugh of it.

So picked up a donor engine from an identical vehicle, 2008 ram, 5.7, tore it open and it was a beaute! $1800

Took the block to a machinist and had it bored, agligned, line bored, decked, & dipped, frost plugs removed and tapped the holes, ect. stuff... $2000
Manley stroker kit , pistons .010 over, only size piston in stock. $3000
Stock 08 ram heads, hand ported polished by a one-armed machinist. this guy palmed the head with his one hand and handed it to my buddy Dan. LOL $2000

heres the flow rates
Font Pattern Parallel Number


doing some research about a new intake threw up some issues.... damn AC compressor is in the way... not loosing it.
so found a plan.
car timing cover, car accessory drive. electric rad fan.

So i purchased the Flex-a-lite 183 kit and installed the e-fan.
works great.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Hood Bumper



got about this far when i came across a website

and would ya look at that... basically what I was planning.... 650HP... really? cool!
well this list fills in some blanks....
injector size 47 lbs/hr
throttlebody 92mm

So now Im working overtime to buy the next few grand of parts....
Camshaft and valvetrain next. Dans buddy is "running some numbers" in one of his programs to aide us in our cam choice.
it will be a Compcams cam plus springs, rocker assembly.

Things still need to figure out....
Stock PCM or aftermarket?
terminator x looks like a good fit for the engine, but dont think it will play with this transmission?? not sure.. this is where im stuck at the moment.
Complicating things maybe is, im starting with the stock 454RFE, but planning on 8HP70 swap later down the road... might also do a turbo too after the tranny....
so... yeah...
thats where im at...



Discuss... Advise.... Call me a moron...

======================================================================
UPDATE 2023 March 20:

Google Photos Album

HERE is the final build list

Truck:
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 5.7 4x4 $9000

Donor Engine:
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 $1800 (CDN)

Machine Work:
Block: Dipped, Bored, Line-bored while bolted at torque $2000 (CDN)
Heads: Hand ported, valves, seats, seals, improved lift clearance, port matched to intake $2000 (CDN)

Parts:
Rotating Assembly: $3000 (CDN)
191832 Manley Pro Series Crankshafts
007AV25624S K1 Technologies H-Beam Billet Connecting Rods
53006-R1 Diamond Pistons Competition Series 3.927 +5.0cc piston head (-5cc effective)

Valvetrain:
CCA-112-305-11 CompCams HRT Stage 3 Camshafts 112-305-11 $479.95 (USD)
CCA-7228-16 CompCams Valve Springs 412 lbs open valve pressure $307.95 (USD)
CCA-607-16 CompCams Valve Lock Set - Dodge Hemi $47.95 (USD)
CCA-856Y-16 CompCams Hydraulic Roller Lifter and Yoke Set $652.23 (CDN)
CCA-8720-16 CompCams Hi-Tech .080" Wall Pushrods for '03-'08 Dodge 5.7L $217.99 (USD)

Top End:
BBK-1782 BBK 90mm Power-Plus Series Throttle Bodies 1782 $499.99 (USD)
PFS-30561 Professional Products Chrysler Powerfire Ignition Coil Packs $252.99 (USD)
DWK-13U0000428 DeatschWerks Fuel Injectors 42lbs/hr 13U-00-0042-8 $439.00 (USD)
300-658BK Holley Gen III Hemi Hi-Ram EFI Manifold $1,063.95 (USD)
890015B Holley Sniper Fabricated Aluminum Valve Cover $667.58 (CDN)
Khaos Motorsports 90mm Helix Throttle Body Spacer ( for fit, not function )

Front & Bottom:
BBK-4009CH BBK Shorty Headers 4009CH $449.99 (USD)
Manley 73205 Double Roller Timing Kit $375.34 (CDN)
10342HV MELLING High Volume Oil Pump (8413.30.0090) $252.18 (CDN)
SUM-C2516 Summit Racing™ Bracket Racer SFI Harmonic Dampers $266.99 (USD)
MMP-HSCWT Hemi TRUCK Stroker Windage Tray (5.7 and 6.4) $139.95 (USD)
TRD-1127 Trans-Dapt Performance Remote Oil Dual Filter Relocation Kit $85.99 (USD)
JLT-3063P-B J&L Oil Separator Co. 3.0 Oil Separators 3063P-B $159.00 (USD)
Moroso 23991 - Internal Oil Preheaters
Moroso 22737 - Weld-In Bungs
AGILITY 8012813 radiator 2 row $184.95 (CDN)
183 Flex-a-lite electric fan $420.08 (CDN)

Many other small parts. seals, sensors, pulleys, tools ect.

9,352.37 CDN
4,414 USD / 6,037 CDN
15,389.39 CDN TOTAL of major parts listed above
 
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#3 ·
Sound like your about to have some fun. The terminator X is a good standalone unit but won't
Work with the 545rfe or the 8hp70 sadly. You could do a manual VB a518/46rh and then us it but then your guages won’t work either without swapping to the digital dash holly makes. The factory pcm can be tuned and the trans tuned also since it’s one file on that year using Diablo or HPtuners.
 
#4 · (Edited)
and thats the conclusion i came to.... until i saw the signature on @Harleyc04
Font Rectangle Parallel Audio equipment Writing


color me confused....
he hasn't replied to my DM yet.
and the one thing i understand the LEAST... is trannys

looks like he might be running Powertrain Control Solutions - TCM2000 Transmission Controller
but... dunno how it talks to the holley terminator... maybe via the can-bus, but i read that the holley can-bus is proprietary...?? dunno.
 
#5 ·
you did read the post I made about the 8HP70 swap, right?
 
#6 ·
didnt know there was one... but just found it...
reading...
 
#12 · (Edited)
got about this far when i came across a website

and would ya look at that... basically what I was planning.... 650HP... really? cool!

ok this is a perfect example of "don't believe everything you see on the internet". I will tell you straight up that dude is full of shit. the power curve he is claiming, think about it for a second. just under 500 lb-ft of torque 'just off idle', a peak torque number of 550 and peak hp of just over 660. his numbers are bullshit.

with a peak torque number of 550 lb-ft, the absolute lowest rpm at which he could hit 660hp would be 6,300 and he would need 550 lb-ft to do it at that rpm, yet 550 is his claimed peak torque number. plus, the torque would have to do a spectacular nosedive immediately after 6,300rpm in order for the motor to not make a higher than claimed peak hp number.

even if he hit his peak hp at 7,000rpm (which he wouldn't do without some expensive parts running a 4.050" stroke), he would still need 500 lb-ft at 7K to be in the 660s for hp. so just off idle to 7K rpm his torque curve is so flat that it stays within 50 lb-ft?

any well designed motor will have a fairly flat torque curve, but if he is making 500+ tq just off idle and then holding onto it for that long, why not spin the motor faster and make way more hp?

and as you see, he advertises it as being dynoed with a startup tune and then the motor runs with the self tuning. so he is doing all this without even tuning the motor?!? I bet if you ask him, he can send the shuttle into orbit with Roman candles.
 
#13 ·
ok this is a perfect example of "don't believe everything you see on the internet". I will tell you straight up that dude is full of shit. the power curve he is claiming, think about it for a second. just under 500 lb-ft of torque 'just off idle', a peak torque number of 550 and peak hp of just over 660. his numbers are bullshit. even if peak hp came at the same rpm as peak torque, that would be at 6,300rpm and the torque would have to do a spectacular nosedive immediately after in order for the motor to not make a higher than claimed peak hp number. even if he hit his peak hp at 7,000rpm (which he wouldn't do without some very expensive parts running a 4.050" stroke), he would still need 500 lb-ft at 7K to be in the 660s for hp. so just off idle to 7K rpm his torque curve is so flat that it stays within 50 lb-ft? and as you see, he advertises it as being dynoed with a startup tune and then the motor runs with the self tuning. so he is doing all this without even tuning the motor?!? I bet if you ask him, he can send the shuttle into orbit with Roman candles.
umm... flat torque curve? stays within 50ft-lbs? where did ya see that?
are you talking about this dyno run from the youtube video he has on the page?
honestly 20% of what you said is English to me....
still learning... gonna have to have my buddy Dan translate and interpret.
Rectangle Font Parallel Slope Technology



and what about my question from 2 posts up?
 
#25 · (Edited)
yes please, im trying to pull more info from you to get it straight.

do a lot of research and set an end goal and work towards that. spend the money once and do things right the first time. don't waste your time and money on stopgap measures when you can be patient for free.

if you want an 8 speed in your truck, don't spend money on the 545RFE. Start accumulating the parts you need to swap in the 8 speed. Of course, do what you need to do for the time being, but don't just donate money to chasing the mod dragon.

you mentioned going FI in the future. Before you build, decide whether or not you will, and build your motor appropriately. Don't buy two cams. Don't buy two sets of pistons. Don't pay for machining and balancing twice. the money you spend the second time around could have been put towards your ultimate goal initially.

I will give you an example. I have had my truck since new. the very first mod i ever did was headers. I did 5 minutes of research and bought painted hedman shorty headers (cue the laughter). I also firmly believed that I got a performance gain from them (cue the laughter again). I then upgraded to some coated mid length headers, still not wanting to drop 700 bucks on longtubes. then eventually I bought the set of longtubes. the shortys cost me 370 bucks and went in the garbage where they belong. I paid 350 for a used set of mid length headers and sold them later for 250. I then spent 700 on longtubes. each time also required a $50 set of gaskets. so all said and done I ended up paying about $1,270 for the longtubes and gaskets that would have cost me 750 bucks if I had just bought them initially. for what I paid for longtubes, I could have had longtubes and say a cam and springs. now apply that to multiple modifications. do you see where I am going with this? do it right the first time.

I am not saying that you need to have a plan set in stone, I am just saying that once you start messing with your truck, you aren't going to stop. it gets very expensive very quickly, so it is wise to choose parts with an eye towards the future. an extra few hundred dollars on a stronger set of rods and pistons is cheaper than buying a set and using them for a while and then buying stronger pistons and rods when you want to hit your motor with a 200 shot. if you're buying an 8 speed and the sound german controller, buy an 8HP90 instead of an 8HP70. Buy it once and install it once and have room to grow rather than doing a second transmission swap when you go wilder on the motor (notice how I said when and not if). Do a lot of research and build everything a little stronger than you figure you will need, and if there is a bigger/better/stronger option that won't throw off your overall combo, spend a few extra bucks and go with that.

As I am sure anyone who has gotten deep into modding their truck will tell you, do a ton of research before you drop a bunch of money. Parts are expensive, reading is free. A lot of us have spent a lot more time and money getting to the point we are at than we would if we re-did it all today. Learn from our mistakes rather than making your own!
 
#27 · (Edited)
Update :
Yesterday I installed a Hellwig Rear Sway Bar kit:
Car Motor vehicle Automotive tire Tire Vehicle


had to fab up longer links due to my 6" lift (4" in rear), 7/16 grade 8 ready rod, 1/2" id steel tube.
reduced body roll by half, rear end stays really planted when power sliding.
money well spent.


And now im about to pull the trigger on some parts.

Would love some opinions, suggestions, or warnings.

Holley Sniper 837252 - Holley Sniper EFI Fabricated Intakes - mopar and LS mount 92mm ***keep in mind, im going car timing cover & acc drive
DeatschWerks 13U-00-0042-8 - DeatschWerks Fuel Injectors - 42 lb/hr
BBK Performance 1782 - BBK Power-Plus Series Throttle Bodies 90mm mopar drive by wire
Melling 10342 - Melling Performance Oil Pumps - high volume oil pump.
 
#28 ·
An alternative to the 8sp is a well built manual valve body 46rh/re. It is strong enough to hold a supercharged stroker motor and very streetable.
 
#29 ·
A priority with my final transmission decision will be highway mileage. I live in fort mac. the next largest city is Edmonton, the closest Best Buy is 500km away.... 1000km round trip.
And yes will have to do diff gears. already accepted that.
 
#30 ·
The 46rh/re trans have OD and lockup. But a SC'd jacked up 4x4 will not be good on mileage.
 
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#33 ·
The man speaks the truth.. Red is built for fun and used when I want to go fast. My daily is a 07 24 valve diesel. But my current favorite is a 89' 12 valve, relatively quick and gets 21mpg. Good luck and enjoy your truck..
 
#36 · (Edited)
just to be clear...
im building something similar.... not exactly the same
im just stealing his parts list as as starting point for some research. not as "my build list"
im not expecting any HP/TQ numbers at the moment. Im hoping for over 500 hp when done, but dont expect shit.
I will be getting professionally tuned....
that was why i was asking about terminator vs stock PCM... to know my tuning route for this first part of the build.
staying stock PCM for now it looks like

and its also why im here asking questions. to get more info and make better choices for my use.
I just want a brand new engine that will last, and be fun when i stomp on it.
Im not going to the track. Im not trying to shave fractions of seconds..

A new ram with sunroof and heated seats? $50K?
this engine build is a much cheaper option, however it turns out, it'll be better than a new stock ram engine. ill be happy
 
#47 ·
#39 ·
Red's a pig on gas. I have a 20gal tank that can go 160 miles. Low fuel light comes on I have 15 miles left. I carry a 5gal spare can, so as not to worry. Of course when playing I can dump the tank in something around 60 miles. Engine turns 2000 rpm @ 65mph. 32inch tall tires. 3:91 gear.. 46rh manual vb. Point is, don't get carried away..
Car Hood Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive air manifold
 
#41 ·
Red's a pig on gas. I have a 20gal tank that can go 160 miles. Low fuel light comes on I have 15 miles left. I carry a 5gal spare can, so as not to worry. Of course when playing I can dump the tank in something around 60 miles. Engine turns 2000 rpm @ 65mph. 32inch tall tires. 3:91 gear.. 46rh manual vb. Point is, don't get carried away..
View attachment 50330
I have 20 gal tank too... 160 miles... yeah thats about right.... thats me on a bad wind day. stock worn engine NA.. I can live with that.
 
#42 ·
The number is 0.69 for OD..:)
Then you are use to having limited range.. small tanks save weight, but can be a pia when going anywhere.
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive tire
 
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#44 ·
Haha thats the only tank.. and yes the HTH coilover setup. The truck arms go to a cross member just behind the trans.
Tire Vehicle Wheel Automotive tire Hood
 
#46 ·
if you are running the factory tank (which i assume you are) it is 26 gallons. you would know if you had the 34 gallon tank because your fillups would be close to 140L.

there is nothing stopping you from lowering the truck with the factory tank, unless you want to change to a different suspension setup.
 
#48 ·
Better weight distribution and make room for the truckarms.
 
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#50 ·
Here's another picture you might like.. I originally removed the OEM gas tank to install a custom dual exhaust. It was a absolute failure. More importantly than being unpleasantly loud, it lost power. Couldn't tune the loss back out. Used 3" pipe and I suspect simply didn't have enough velocity.
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#51 · (Edited)
Here's another picture you might like.. I originally removed the OEM gas tank to install a custom dual exhaust. It was a absolute failure. More importantly than being unpleasantly loud, it lost power. Couldn't tune the loss back out. Used 3" pipe and I suspect simply didn't have enough velocity.
View attachment 50342
Yeah i've already wasted money on my exhaust too.
Bought an MBRP cat back dual exhaust kit. HATED the sound. Didn't sound like a hemi. Too loud, Too much drone on the highway.
Cut out the MBRP muffler and put in a Flowmaster 50 Series HD.

I knew i shoulda gone flowmaster from the start. thought i would try something "different"... nope.


 
#52 ·
One sacrifice I will make to my engine build will be a quiet-ish exhaust.
I found a custom exhaust shop in Edmonton that will do all the thinking for me for my new exhaust setup.
but I'll take the 10-15 hp loss to not drive myself nuts with engine drone.

Again 5 hours to Edmonton... 4600km to "back home"
 
#53 ·
if you have a healthy cam in your motor, you're going to want to hear it. ask anyone else on here and I promise they will tell you the same. maybe look into some cutouts for when you want to turn up the volume, that way you keep your options open. what are your plans for headers and are you going to run cats?
 
#54 ·
I have installed many exhaust systems. Things I have found is a straight through muffer (magnaflow being my favorite) sounds good and won't lose power. I'm not a fan of FlowMaster, so I'm bias.... turbo muffler have all been losers as well. Duals didn't work well, losing power. Long tubes and Y pipe has worked best and is what I always go back to after making changes. My current setup is a single Aero XL that I modified to fit my specific exhaust setup. I'm happy with what I have and don't think there will be anymore changes. My system uses all V band connections and can easily drop the muffler and replace it with a straight pipe. There is very little to none movement with the piping and I use turbo high quality flex couplers. This is critical that turbo grade flex joints be used otherwise they will collapse internally and block the exhaust flow.
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