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Tristyn's 2008 Ram Stroker Build - Build log and advice

9698 Views 229 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  TRusselo, 
TRusselo
2
Well hi folks. I'm Tristyn.

Im currently in my first engine build... or paying for one at least... "building remotely" as I like to call it....

Im up in Fort McMurray, and my friend of 20 years, Dan, is down in Edmonton is doing the actual building. Hes been a mechanic for as long as I've known him, but his specialty has been repair, not performance builds, so there are some things even he cant answer for me.

While up til now, I've never been an engine guy, I learn by doing, and jumping in deep.... as you will soon see...

So to start off, I have a 2008 ram 5.7 4x4, minor valvetrain noise at idle, quickly turned into what will be about ~12K$ project mostly due to boredom.
Im keeping the truck forever, its in GREAT condition. i could fix it for under $2000, have a bit of fun on the top end for $4000, but the bottom end would still be 13 years old.....
So screw it! start fresh, just swap it when ready, minimal downtime.

The idea is a daily driver / super street pickup. no plans on going to the track more than once, just for the laugh of it.

So picked up a donor engine from an identical vehicle, 2008 ram, 5.7, tore it open and it was a beaute! $1800

Took the block to a machinist and had it bored, agligned, line bored, decked, & dipped, frost plugs removed and tapped the holes, ect. stuff... $2000
Manley stroker kit , pistons .010 over, only size piston in stock. $3000
Stock 08 ram heads, hand ported polished by a one-armed machinist. this guy palmed the head with his one hand and handed it to my buddy Dan. LOL $2000

heres the flow rates
Font Pattern Parallel Number


doing some research about a new intake threw up some issues.... damn AC compressor is in the way... not loosing it.
so found a plan.
car timing cover, car accessory drive. electric rad fan.

So i purchased the Flex-a-lite 183 kit and installed the e-fan.
works great.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Hood Bumper



got about this far when i came across a website
www.customcrateengines.com

Gen III 392CI Hemi Stroker 650HP Crate Engine

Gen III Hemi, Hemi engine, 345CI, Mopar, Mopar Hemi
www.customcrateengines.com www.customcrateengines.com

and would ya look at that... basically what I was planning.... 650HP... really? cool!
well this list fills in some blanks....
injector size 47 lbs/hr
throttlebody 92mm

So now Im working overtime to buy the next few grand of parts....
Camshaft and valvetrain next. Dans buddy is "running some numbers" in one of his programs to aide us in our cam choice.
it will be a Compcams cam plus springs, rocker assembly.

Things still need to figure out....
Stock PCM or aftermarket?
terminator x looks like a good fit for the engine, but dont think it will play with this transmission?? not sure.. this is where im stuck at the moment.
Complicating things maybe is, im starting with the stock 454RFE, but planning on 8HP70 swap later down the road... might also do a turbo too after the tranny....
so... yeah...
thats where im at...



Discuss... Advise.... Call me a moron...

======================================================================
UPDATE 2023 March 20:

Google Photos Album
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HEMI Build

173 new items added to shared album
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HERE is the final build list

Truck:
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT 5.7 4x4 $9000

Donor Engine:
2008 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 $1800 (CDN)

Machine Work:
Block: Dipped, Bored, Line-bored while bolted at torque $2000 (CDN)
Heads: Hand ported, valves, seats, seals, improved lift clearance, port matched to intake $2000 (CDN)

Parts:
Rotating Assembly: $3000 (CDN)
191832 Manley Pro Series Crankshafts
007AV25624S K1 Technologies H-Beam Billet Connecting Rods
53006-R1 Diamond Pistons Competition Series 3.927 +5.0cc piston head (-5cc effective)

Valvetrain:
CCA-112-305-11 CompCams HRT Stage 3 Camshafts 112-305-11 $479.95 (USD)
CCA-7228-16 CompCams Valve Springs 412 lbs open valve pressure $307.95 (USD)
CCA-607-16 CompCams Valve Lock Set - Dodge Hemi $47.95 (USD)
CCA-856Y-16 CompCams Hydraulic Roller Lifter and Yoke Set $652.23 (CDN)
CCA-8720-16 CompCams Hi-Tech .080" Wall Pushrods for '03-'08 Dodge 5.7L $217.99 (USD)

Top End:
BBK-1782 BBK 90mm Power-Plus Series Throttle Bodies 1782 $499.99 (USD)
PFS-30561 Professional Products Chrysler Powerfire Ignition Coil Packs $252.99 (USD)
DWK-13U0000428 DeatschWerks Fuel Injectors 42lbs/hr 13U-00-0042-8 $439.00 (USD)
300-658BK Holley Gen III Hemi Hi-Ram EFI Manifold $1,063.95 (USD)
890015B Holley Sniper Fabricated Aluminum Valve Cover $667.58 (CDN)
Khaos Motorsports 90mm Helix Throttle Body Spacer ( for fit, not function )

Front & Bottom:
BBK-4009CH BBK Shorty Headers 4009CH $449.99 (USD)
Manley 73205 Double Roller Timing Kit $375.34 (CDN)
10342HV MELLING High Volume Oil Pump (8413.30.0090) $252.18 (CDN)
SUM-C2516 Summit Racing™ Bracket Racer SFI Harmonic Dampers $266.99 (USD)
MMP-HSCWT Hemi TRUCK Stroker Windage Tray (5.7 and 6.4) $139.95 (USD)
TRD-1127 Trans-Dapt Performance Remote Oil Dual Filter Relocation Kit $85.99 (USD)
JLT-3063P-B J&L Oil Separator Co. 3.0 Oil Separators 3063P-B $159.00 (USD)
Moroso 23991 - Internal Oil Preheaters
Moroso 22737 - Weld-In Bungs
AGILITY 8012813 radiator 2 row $184.95 (CDN)
183 Flex-a-lite electric fan $420.08 (CDN)

Many other small parts. seals, sensors, pulleys, tools ect.

9,352.37 CDN
4,414 USD / 6,037 CDN
15,389.39 CDN TOTAL of major parts listed above
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TRusselo
No idea...
Smelled coolant in the past couple days..
Nothing but grocery getting, driving the dogs to the park for the past month.
I don't even drive it to work as I have a company vehicle.
Too high up, out of the way for physical damage.

At 15 years old I don't question it, and the new engine goes in in the spring.

Had a new thermostat installed 3 months ago
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TRusselo
I pressurer washed some bees out last month...

There's a few fins damaged right above the apex of the expansion
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charged392
Grab one from the dealer not much more than parts stores most times. I used a stock radiator on my 392 with a supercharger and then a front mount turbo issue free heat wise. Only time my truck would get warm was for long idle times in traffic and my fan was not pulling air thru entire radiator just where fan was mounted.
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TRusselo
55056682AE - mopar 1.25 " rad - single row- Exact replacement - online $550 CDN shipped - 550 local dealer
55056681AE - mopar 1" rad - light duty rad mostly 4.7L but few 5.7L- single row - online $450 shipped
APDI 8012813 - 1 5/8 " rad - 2 row - rockauto - 380 shipped

Good reviews on APDI
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TRusselo
5
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Bumper Vehicle

Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Bumper

Hood Grille Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive lighting

Grille Hood Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire

Hood Grille Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle



I had to drill my own holes for the trans cooler mount
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TRusselo
Welp....
blew a head gasket on my OG engine while in Edmonton, 5 hours from home. 20 minutes from the engine build.

i guess the new engine is going in early.
skipping the tranny & ECU for now.

got a place that will startup/tune my engine for 1800$ CDN including the Bully Dog they will need.

the Terminator X is most likely still happening down the road.

Any advice on fuel system?
Holley Hi-ram intake and fuel rails, fuel pump / return / evap stock.
suggestions?
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Harleyc04
TRusselo said:
Welp....
blew a head gasket on my OG engine while in Edmonton, 5 hours from home. 20 minutes from the engine build.

i guess the new engine is going in early.
skipping the tranny & ECU for now.

got a place that will startup/tune my engine for 1800$ CDN including the Bully Dog they will need.

the Terminator X is most likely still happening down the road.

Any advice on fuel system?
Holley Hi-ram intake and fuel rails, fuel pump / return / evap stock.
suggestions?
Click to expand...

the factory fuel pump and line will be enough to feed your engine. also there is no return line, it's a deadhead system.

it's your money but for about 2200 canadian rubles you can just buy a Terminator X system and it will run your engine right out of the box, but then you have the transmission to contend with.

my opinion is the same as always, do it once and do it right. if you're going to tune the factory pcm then stick with that. if you're going to do the terminator then stick with that. no sense in buying both.

I get that you're in a bind right now, but head gaskets and a set of bolts will cost you less than 200 bucks and you can change them in an afternoon. don't rush your swap and/or cut corners because of it. you're going to be up and running way sooner and cheaper if you just do the head gasket.
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TRusselo
yeah the parts are 200$ to fix a head gasket, but my buddy who is building my engine for next to free, installing it and lending me his deceased mothers' truck until my truck is "fixed" (5 hours from where i live) .... isnt really into the idea of fixing my blown headgasket, just to swap my engine in a few months.

im not going to argue. he is doing me many solids.
i can afford to buy a bully dog and re-sell it later. loose some cash on the tuning, yeah
but technically would have spent money fixing the blown gasket and paying my buddy few hundred for the work, there is waisted money either way.

I was with you before, ECU, engine, tranny, one go.
life happens.

not to mention, my 6-figure job is on the verge of Striking in the next month.
last strike went 6 months.
SH!T happens.
engine is going in now, or i might not be able to do it until next year, if strike goes sideways.
i have a vote tonight

if we dont strike, and we sign THIS current deal.
ill have 5K for the tranny and terminator soon, another 5k in Sept
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Harleyc04
TRusselo said:
yeah the parts are 200$ to fix a head gasket, but my buddy who is building my engine for next to free, installing it and lending me his deceased mothers' truck until my truck is "fixed" (5 hours from where i live) .... isnt really into the idea of fixing my blown headgasket, just to swap my engine in a few months.

im not going to argue. he is doing me many solids.
i can afford to buy a bully dog and re-sell it later. loose some cash on the tuning, yeah
but technically would have spent money fixing the blown gasket and paying my buddy few hundred for the work, there is waisted money either way.

I was with you before, ECU, engine, tranny, one go.
life happens.

not to mention, my 6-figure job is on the verge of Striking in the next month.
last strike went 6 months.
SH!T happens.
engine is going in now, or i might not be able to do it until next year, if strike goes sideways.
i have a vote tonight

if we dont strike, and we sign THIS current deal.
ill have 5K for the tranny and terminator soon, another 5k in Sept
Click to expand...

ah ok I was assuming you were doing the work yourself
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TRusselo
Harleyc04 said:
ah ok I was assuming you were doing the work yourself
Click to expand...
no im just the bag of money....
learning by building "virtually in my head" as dan sends me photos of money being assembled
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TRusselo
just hoping the stock rfe doesnt blow on the dyno

oh yeah...the "loaner" is another 2008 ram 1500, but BLUE with topper
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Harleyc04
TRusselo said:
just hoping the stock rfe doesnt blow on the dyno

oh yeah...the "loaner" is another 2008 ram 1500, but BLUE with topper
Click to expand...

you don't need to worry about an n/a 392 killing the transmission, there have been many stock 545s behind 392s and they will handle it. as long as you avoid the wot 3-4 and manually downshift into 2nd you will more than likely never have an issue with the trans as long as it isn't junk to begin with. if it has been properly maintained it shouldn't give you any issues.
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R
Harleyc04 said:
as long as you avoid the wot 3-4 and manually downshift into 2nd
Click to expand...
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I can not stress the importance of that statement ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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TRusselo
Rays04GTX said:
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I can not stress the importance of that statement ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Click to expand...
@Harleyc04 @Rays04GTX @arocketman @charged392

if this is very important... im gonna need it explained better.
auto transmissions are the thing I understand the least.

I think im being warned about not kicking the gas and dropping it into lower gear?
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TRusselo
and
I just ordered the 1227 trans dapt dual flilter relocation kit.
summit says it works on my 2008 ram but was out of stock
so i ordered from TDot here in Canada, as it "said" in-stock and was cheaper.

Now TDot is telling me it does not fit my truck, and is special order.
I told them to ship it anyway.
Im pretty sure Im right this time.
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Harleyc04
TRusselo said:
and
I just ordered the 1227 trans dapt dual flilter relocation kit.
summit says it works on my 2008 ram but was out of stock
so i ordered from TDot here in Canada, as it "said" in-stock and was cheaper.

Now TDot is telling me it does not fit my truck, and is special order.
I told them to ship it anyway.
Im pretty sure Im right this time.
Click to expand...

I don't have the email from tdot but I am pretty sure the box is still kicking around my garage so I can look at the part # tomorrow and let you know. the fram filter number that fit the motor before was PH2, so if yours is the same then it will be the same part # as what I have. pretty sure it is 1227 but I can't remember. the filters it takes are going to be different than what goes on your motor now, as I said I can't remember but I will take a peek when I get home tomorrow and I will let you know.
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Harleyc04
TRusselo said:
@Harleyc04 @Rays04GTX @arocketman @charged392

if this is very important... im gonna need it explained better.
auto transmissions are the thing I understand the least.

I think im being warned about not kicking the gas and dropping it into lower gear?
Click to expand...

I think it is the OD clutch that burns up, and it is used for 2p and 4th, so yes you want to avoid the 3-2p kickdown as well as the hard throttle 3-4. manually pull it down into 2nd before you stomp it. if you're doing a full throttle run then after the trans does the 2-3 upshift, pull the lever back into 2 and it won't do the 3-4 upshift and you will run 3 up to the limiter. there are many guys here who have smoked their trans via 2p and wot 3-4, so I'm sure someone will chime in and add more to this. but the long and the short of it is to manually downshift to 2nd before stomping it and to pull the lever into 2 after a wot 2-3 to keep it from hitting 4th. both things are easy to remember and put into practice.
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R
the issue with the 545 is they way the OD/2gear prime unit works, there's not enough clutch surface to hold high torque #s the other issue is weight, In a 3k lbs car/truck they'll take a 600hp pounding...In a 5k lbs car/truck there's a lot more load on that poor trans.....I run what's know as a 904 basically a "light duty" trans in my 66 dart, the dart weighs 2650, that same trans in a 3650 car would be toast after 10 runs...weight is very had on a trans. harder then people think.

The 545 is an odd ball, I've seen them go 5-600k miles in well maintained trucks....I picked up a 575k Mile 04 RCLB 4x2 Dually back in October, one owner original trans, all service records truck was never in for any trans issues, couple starters, 4 or 5 AC compressors, front end work...but that 545 has never been removed....My 04 GTX that I bought new(not my 468CI GTX), once in a while I drove it like I stole it...38k miles, less then 4 years old and the trans took a crap...now after I did some research and basically followed what Mr Harley has described... keep it from going from 3-4 wot, never let it kick down out of anger, manually shift it from D to 2nd when you want to stretch it's legs so to speak and it's got another 70k miles on it, my grand son's 03...that numb nuts was on his 3rd 545 before we go it through his thick skull that 450HP drive it like you are out running the cops every traffic light ....is not ideal for that trans.

Just be mindful while driving, the kid in the F150 next to you at the light.....let him win, smacking down an ECO Crap is not worth replacing the trans..
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R
TRusselo said:
[

I think im being warned about not kicking the gas and dropping it into lower gear?
Click to expand...
In a phrase ....yes, you can drop down a gear manually and push it hard, you can be WOT 1st,2nd,3rd.....then pull it back to 2nd before it wants to hit od, in my experience WOT trans shifting from 3rd to od does more harm being in 3rd and it kicking down.....Now being in 4th , then forcing it to kick down(to pass the F150 ECO crap kid) is just as harmful as WOT into OD, because now your hard on the OD clutch, then the 2nd Prime clutch grabs and between the two of those clutchs there's just not enough surface area to hold the stress of the load being put on the trans.

You can cruise around and drive "normally" let the trans do it's thing....and you'll be fine.........(for awhile depending on HP/TQ) they'll take 500Ftlbs of Tq if you are not a Traffic Light hero.
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TRusselo
So... what im hearing is cross my fingers i dont go on strike and put in a built zf8-hp70 asap.
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