Hemi Truck Club banner
141 - 160 of 186 Posts

· Registered
2008 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 for now....
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #142 · (Edited)
does anyone have anything to say about Amerihood hoods?
found one with a functional hood scoop takes the air to the aftermarket air box.
i can even pick it up locally in Alberta from this company below

ah just found thread with @SUPER BEE
he has the hood im looking at

Automotive design Font Auto part Cleanliness Automotive exterior
 

· John
Joined
·
4,312 Posts
@SUPER BEE how is the hood after 4 years?
i had that chrome grille and headlights at one point,
Grille didnt survive Canadian winters. chrome peeled after 3 years.
Hood is still going strong, so is the chrome/black grille. The hood will need som fitting especially on the passenger side for hood to fender fit. I drive 80/85 mph on interstates no problems.

Car Plant Tire Vehicle Grille
Vehicle Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Grille
Automotive parking light Tire Wheel Automotive side marker light Vehicle
.
Plant Hood Vehicle Automotive lighting Tree
 

· Registered
2008 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 for now....
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Hood is still going strong, so is the chrome/black grille. The hood will need som fitting especially on the passenger side for hood to fender fit. I drive 80/85 mph on interstates no problems.

.
I highly recommend getting switchback led marker bulbs for those headlights assemblies.
3157 amber/white switchback led marker lights white running light with amber signal.

If you get the cheaper bulbs you will need to add a load resistor to the turn signal to avoid hyper flash or you can purchase slightly more expensive models with the resistor built in

Morefulls 3157 Switchback LED Bulbs Error Free 36LEDs Canbus Turn Signal Light
Morefulls 3157 Switchback LED Bulbs Error Free 36LEDs Canbus Turn Signal Light No Hyperflash T25 3047 3057 3155 3156 Amber and White Replace for Front Turning Light Driving Light, Turn Signal Bulbs - Amazon Canada

Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Automotive side marker light Vehicle Grille
 

· Registered
2008 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 for now....
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #146 ·
So ran into an issue found out the harmonic balancer I bought is 20% underdrive no good for street driving. SUM-c2516 The instructions in the box literally say idle will not be enough to cool or charge the engine.
Any suggestions?

I read somewhere the stock damper tends to explode around 6,800 RPM.
Although I don't plan on spending much time redlining. Might be good enough for the time being?

There are some ATI dampers on Summit but some of them say 8 rib where the truck is only seven and the cars are six. This has me confused. And it's $200 more than I've already spent on this one.
 

· Proud Canadian
Joined
·
359 Posts
So ran into an issue found out the harmonic balancer I bought is 20% underdrive no good for street driving. SUM-c2516 The instructions in the box literally say idle will not be enough to cool or charge the engine.
Any suggestions?

I read somewhere the stock damper tends to explode around 6,800 RPM.
Although I don't plan on spending much time redlining. Might be good enough for the time being?

There are some ATI dampers on Summit but some of them say 8 rib where the truck is only seven and the cars are six. This has me confused. And it's $200 more than I've already spent on this one.
don't let the internet or the instruction manual get your head all messed up. it will be fine. as in zero issues regardless of anything anyone tries to put in your head.

first off, do you plan to drive your truck or just sit there in P and idle? great, the problem is already solved.

I have an ATI 15% underdrive damper and my truck idles bouncing between about 725-750rpm. charging system voltage sits at 13.8v at idle. as far as cooling goes, you live in fort mac, not fort worth. will you maybe see the temp creep up a bit in stop and go traffic when it is 30+ degrees C outside? yeah. how often is that the case? never. and as far as the steering assist goes, there is no difference.

you're not turning a blower, so keep the underdrive damper and take that little bit of reduction in parasitic losses that it will give you. the 6,800 rpm factory balancer explosion thing shouldn't be of any concern because I can't see you turning your motor that fast with a 4" stroke.

if you have access to your factory and your underdrive balancer, try grabbing each by the collar and quickly turn it back and forth with your hand, the difference in inertia is very noticeable just in your hand. the difference at the crank snout (when these forces are greatly multiplied) is actually pretty profound.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: arocketman

· Registered
2008 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 for now....
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Well that's good news.

I do idle/ warmup in winter quite a bit, 15-25 min but was planning on doing that less on my $$$ new engine. I do run a sound system with two 12-in subs... But they don't play during warm up.

Should still be fine

The AIT's at Summit were either out of stock or wrong number of ribs.

I guess it goes in the oven tomorrow.
It's an interference fit.
 

· Proud Canadian
Joined
·
359 Posts
Well that's good news.

I do idle/ warmup in winter quite a bit, 15-25 min but was planning on doing that less on my $$$ new engine. I do run a sound system with two 12-in subs... But they don't play during warm up.

Should still be fine

The AIT's at Summit were either out of stock or wrong number of ribs.

I guess it goes in the oven tomorrow.
It's an interference fit.
they're all interference fit. make sure it is honed to the proper size, don't just force it on there or you might end up having to cut it off. I forced a balancer on one time and trust me, you don't ever want to do that.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: arocketman

· Registered
2008 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 for now....
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #152 ·
have decided to get Holley Terminator X Max Ecu for the install.

the added cost will save me about as much time/money on the dyno trying to get the stock PCM happy with this cam & stroker.

started a dedicated install/wiring/tuning thread for it.
 

· Proud Canadian
Joined
·
359 Posts
where did you find your temp switch? all my search results return fan switches, with on/off reversed
just search amazon for 195 degree temp switch or 210 degree temp switch or whatever. there are a ton of results. the off/on temperatures don't really matter because the oil isn't going to get that hot in winter, but you have to have some kind of temp control on there regardless.
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: arocketman

· Proud Canadian
Joined
·
359 Posts
did that before i bothered asking. and i just did again
the only results i found are fan turn on switches, that turn on once above 210, then turn off below 185.
with these wired in line, the heater will never come on.
this will work if i use a relay and wire the heater to the relay N/C and the fan switch to the relay coil.
is that what you did?
your previous message said you had the temp switch wired inline to "coil ground".
......buy an NC switch, not NO.

and "coil ground" is referring to the relay.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TRusselo

· Proud Canadian
Joined
·
359 Posts
JUST clued in and edited post above, AS you posted.
either way is fine, obviously. I'm pretty sure I used an NO switch on the relay in my car but if i go check I'm sure it will be an NC switch with the relay wired NC as well.

regardless, it's 120 bucks well spent. I have those moroso heaters in everything except for my truck because it's the only vehicle that doesn't see cold weather.
 

· Registered
2008 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 for now....
Joined
·
115 Posts
Discussion Starter · #159 ·
Vehicle Car Hood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Tread Electrical wiring


So I blew a radiator, suggestions?


I see a mishimoto performance for $850
OE replacement as low as $170
Most OEM replacements around $250
Is it worth the price difference?
Or rather how good is the stock cooling?
My gut tells me to go for the expensive one but many times here I've been talked out of unnecessary upgrades.

It might be worth reminding I've already done the electric fan upgrade

@Harleyc04

Material property Font Screenshot Parallel Web page
 

· Proud Canadian
Joined
·
359 Posts
View attachment 51355
View attachment 51356

So I blew a radiator, suggestions?


I see a mishimoto performance for $850
OE replacement as low as $170
Most OEM replacements around $250
Is it worth the price difference?
Or rather how good is the stock cooling?
My gut tells me to go for the expensive one but many times here I've been talked out of unnecessary upgrades.

It might be worth reminding I've already done the electric fan upgrade

@Harleyc04

View attachment 51357

a stock rad is enough as long as your fan(s) get enough air through it. if it were me in your situation, I would grab a stock rad from a wrecker and be done with it. if you're going to get an aftermarket rad, be sure it's at least better than stock. they aren't always better. you can find a nice shiny aluminum rad online that ends up cooling like shit because the core is ¾" thick.

a stock rad will be fine for your power level. if you stick an air compressor on the motor in the future then upgrade the cooling system accordingly. overbuilding is never a bad idea, but the question of necessity needs to play into it. overbuild for future use IF it will be used in the future, otherwise it's not overbuilding, it's just overspending.

but what caused your rad to pop in the first place?
 
141 - 160 of 186 Posts
Top