Hood is still going strong, so is the chrome/black grille. The hood will need som fitting especially on the passenger side for hood to fender fit. I drive 80/85 mph on interstates no problems.@SUPER BEE how is the hood after 4 years?
i had that chrome grille and headlights at one point,
Grille didnt survive Canadian winters. chrome peeled after 3 years.
I highly recommend getting switchback led marker bulbs for those headlights assemblies.Hood is still going strong, so is the chrome/black grille. The hood will need som fitting especially on the passenger side for hood to fender fit. I drive 80/85 mph on interstates no problems.
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don't let the internet or the instruction manual get your head all messed up. it will be fine. as in zero issues regardless of anything anyone tries to put in your head.So ran into an issue found out the harmonic balancer I bought is 20% underdrive no good for street driving. SUM-c2516 The instructions in the box literally say idle will not be enough to cool or charge the engine.
Any suggestions?
I read somewhere the stock damper tends to explode around 6,800 RPM.
Although I don't plan on spending much time redlining. Might be good enough for the time being?
There are some ATI dampers on Summit but some of them say 8 rib where the truck is only seven and the cars are six. This has me confused. And it's $200 more than I've already spent on this one.
they're all interference fit. make sure it is honed to the proper size, don't just force it on there or you might end up having to cut it off. I forced a balancer on one time and trust me, you don't ever want to do that.Well that's good news.
I do idle/ warmup in winter quite a bit, 15-25 min but was planning on doing that less on my $$$ new engine. I do run a sound system with two 12-in subs... But they don't play during warm up.
Should still be fine
The AIT's at Summit were either out of stock or wrong number of ribs.
I guess it goes in the oven tomorrow.
It's an interference fit.
where did you find your temp switch? all my search results return fan switches, with on/off reversedI have the heater on a relay with a 195F/off 180F/on temperature switch wired inline on the coil ground.
just search amazon for 195 degree temp switch or 210 degree temp switch or whatever. there are a ton of results. the off/on temperatures don't really matter because the oil isn't going to get that hot in winter, but you have to have some kind of temp control on there regardless.where did you find your temp switch? all my search results return fan switches, with on/off reversed
......buy an NC switch, not NO.did that before i bothered asking. and i just did again
the only results i found are fan turn on switches, that turn on once above 210, then turn off below 185.
with these wired in line, the heater will never come on.
this will work if i use a relay and wire the heater to the relay N/C and the fan switch to the relay coil.
is that what you did?
your previous message said you had the temp switch wired inline to "coil ground".
JUST clued in and edited post above, AS you posted.......buy an NC switch, not NO.
either way is fine, obviously. I'm pretty sure I used an NO switch on the relay in my car but if i go check I'm sure it will be an NC switch with the relay wired NC as well.JUST clued in and edited post above, AS you posted.
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So I blew a radiator, suggestions?
I see a mishimoto performance for $850
OE replacement as low as $170
Most OEM replacements around $250
Is it worth the price difference?
Or rather how good is the stock cooling?
My gut tells me to go for the expensive one but many times here I've been talked out of unnecessary upgrades.
It might be worth reminding I've already done the electric fan upgrade
@Harleyc04
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