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2008 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 for now....
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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I've also recently removed my stainless bumpers and send them in for sandblasting / color matching.
Purchased a new grill - no chrome. getting parts of it color matched.
Purchased new paintable door/tailgate handles.... color matching.
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire
Musical instrument Wood Font Art Rectangle

gonna have the grill painted like this
Automotive parking light Car Vehicle Automotive lighting Grille


with the bumpers will look much like this.... but with mached handles and 4th gen style mirrors, different grill...

Car Tire Wheel Vehicle Grille
 

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2008 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 for now....
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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
Also!.... my engine builder finally picked up the engine and stroker kit from the machinist !

Diamond pistons, K1 rods, mahle clevite bearings, manley crank.
all balanced within a gram or so.


Material property Gadget Box Electric blue Machine
Blue Motor vehicle Circuit component Gas Electronic instrument
Engineering Gas Wood Machine Auto part
Blue Light Orange Motor vehicle Gas
Wood Eyewear Tableware Table Magnifying glass

Rectangle Wood Font Gas Flooring
 

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Proud Canadian
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And i have chosen my camshaft kit.

Comp Cams HRT-3 master kit MK112-305-11
View attachment 50426

This produces the most horsepower of any stock piston hyd. roller cam by taking full advantage of HEMI high lift airflow. Runs great from 3000-7000 RPM. Low Shock profiles and #7228 valve spring allow 7500+ RPM

have you already bought this cam? not the way you want to go if you want low end power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
not purchased yet... but i know... im not going for pure low end power.
going for a bit of a mix. i want some high end power, but i also want to keep some low end.
trying to keep it balanced if you can call it that.
im not hitting the track. im not racing. im just having fun.
 

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Proud Canadian
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not purchased yet... but i know... im not going for pure low end power.
going for a bit of a mix. i want some high end power, but i also want to keep some low end.
trying to keep it balanced if you can call it that.
im not hitting the track. im not racing. im just having fun.

you need to prepare a complete package; heads, cam, stall speed, axle ratio, etc. you need to build a combination of parts that work together. just buying parts that claim big numbers is not going to give you the result that I believe you may be expecting. also with that cam you are highly likely to have stalling issues because the factory pcm isn't going to like it, even with a custom tune. the wide LSA would help, but you're likely going to have to idle it high to keep it running.

stalling issues were more than half the reason i installed the terminator system, trust me it gets annoying not being able to stop for a red light without constantly manipulating the throttle to keep the motor running.
 

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Proud Canadian
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208 Posts
Need a suggestion though....
Oil Pump...
High volume, or high pressure?

high pressure is a subjective term, as is high volume. it can mean whatever the person who is saying it wants it to mean.

pressure is not a measure of flow, it is a measure of restriction. your oil pressure is capped by the relief spring in your pump, and your pressures below that are determined by bearing clearances and oil properties.

more flow through a given orifice requires more pressure to force the oil through. a high pressure pump may be standard volume/high pressure, in which case your oil pressures will be unchanged in all situations at or below the pressure of the factory relief spring. a 'high pressure' pump will allow for additional pressure and additional flow at higher rpms.

a high volume pump will increase your oil flow (and obviously your oil pressure) but what it will do for you higher up depends on the relief spring setting. if it is a high volume/standard pressure pump then you will run higher oil flow and pressure in all situations until you overcome the spring and then you will be running the same pressure and flow through the motor as you would be running with the factory pump.

don't just try to fire the parts cannon at your motor and expect a finely tuned combination as the result.

which pumps are you considering?
 

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Proud Canadian
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not purchased yet... but i know... im not going for pure low end power.
going for a bit of a mix. i want some high end power, but i also want to keep some low end.
trying to keep it balanced if you can call it that.
im not hitting the track. im not racing. im just having fun.

your money would be spent MUCH more wisely on a transmission swap if you want overall good driveability with a lift and 35's.
 

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Proud Canadian
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I also want to reiterate that I am not shitting on your ideas. there are plenty of us on here who have wasted a lot of money buying advertising claims because we were in a rush to do whatever it was that we figured we were doing at that time. a good combination requires a good plan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 · (Edited)
you need to prepare a complete package; heads, cam, stall speed, axle ratio, etc. you need to build a combination of parts that work together. just buying parts that claim big numbers is not going to give you the result that I believe you may be expecting. also with that cam you are highly likely to have stalling issues because the factory pcm isn't going to like it, even with a custom tune. the wide LSA would help, but you're likely going to have to idle it high to keep it running.

stalling issues were more than half the reason i installed the terminator system, trust me it gets annoying not being able to stop for a red light without constantly manipulating the throttle to keep the motor running.
Possible stalling issues with this cam.
there's one piece of useful information.... ill look into it.. (update see post 77 & 78)
high pressure is a subjective term, as is high volume. it can mean whatever the person who is saying it wants it to mean.

pressure is not a measure of flow, it is a measure of restriction. your oil pressure is capped by the relief spring in your pump, and your pressures below that are determined by bearing clearances and oil properties.

more flow through a given orifice requires more pressure to force the oil through. a high pressure pump may be standard volume/high pressure, in which case your oil pressures will be unchanged in all situations at or below the pressure of the factory relief spring. a 'high pressure' pump will allow for additional pressure and additional flow at higher rpms.

a high volume pump will increase your oil flow (and obviously your oil pressure) but what it will do for you higher up depends on the relief spring setting. if it is a high volume/standard pressure pump then you will run higher oil flow and pressure in all situations until you overcome the spring and then you will be running the same pressure and flow through the motor as you would be running with the factory pump.

don't just try to fire the parts cannon at your motor and expect a finely tuned combination as the result.

which pumps are you considering?
Thanks. I took two years of hydraulics in college, I understand what flow and pressure are.
Which one should I focus on for this engine and it's known issues?

There are many people out there that believe all the Lifter failure issues are caused due to inadequate oiling. And there seems to be differing opinions on whether higher pressure would fix it or higher flow.

If I can't trust the claims on the item description as you say, I must rely on other people's experience, hence this question, in a forum....

your money would be spent MUCH more wisely on a transmission swap if you want overall good driveability with a lift and 35's.
Already in the process of buying the one you sent me the link to in the DM.... Once I find a core I will have that transmission.
I also want to reiterate that I am not shitting on your ideas. there are plenty of us on here who have wasted a lot of money buying advertising claims because we were in a rush to do whatever it was that we figured we were doing at that time. a good combination requires a good plan.
Sure feels like it
 

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Proud Canadian
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208 Posts
I took two years of hydraulics in college, I understand what flow and pressure are.
Which one should I focus on for this engine and it's known issues?
There are many people out there that believe all the Lifter failure issues are caused due to inadequate oiling. And there seems to be differinf opinions on whether higher pressure would fix it or higher flow.
ok you likely have a better understanding of flow and pressure than most here, so additional input isn't needed for you to know what (if anything) to do about an oil pump. as far as the lifter failure issue goes, it seems to have finally been traced back to a cam hardening issue. I read the explanation but I don't remember the specifics. but is isn't an oiling system issue, and your cam and lifters will be upgraded anyways, so it won't happen to your motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
ok you likely have a better understanding of flow and pressure than most here, so additional input isn't needed for you to know what (if anything) to do about an oil pump. as far as the lifter failure issue goes, it seems to have finally been traced back to a cam hardening issue. I read the explanation but I don't remember the specifics. but is isn't an oiling system issue, and your cam and lifters will be upgraded anyways, so it won't happen to your motor.
the hardening issue is not agreed upon by everyone.. I dont know what to believe, so im covering all bases.

Also, my current engine has top end oiling issues at idle. its the cause of my lifter noise.

at idle 650 rpm, at full operating temp, I have lots of lifter noise. lots of slapping. not a good thing.
revving the engine above 800rpm, gets rid of all noise.
letting it settle back at 650 will be quiet for about 5-10 seconds until the oil film is worn away.

I have a remote starter... and i use it. its fort mcmurray... we have -50c days in winter.

reving the engine is raising the pressure, as full pressure is not achieved at idle...
so i would think i would want a higher volume pump to hit higher pressures sooner....
 

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Proud Canadian
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Sure feels like it

some things might not be what you want to hear but I am just trying to help you spend your money effectively and get the most bang for your buck. I have wasted plenty of money in the past, as have most of us on here. learning from our trial and error is cheaper than learning from your own. the results that a company claims when they are trying to sell you something don't match everyone's specific combination.
 

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Proud Canadian
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the hardening issue is not agreed upon by everyone.. I dont know what to believe, so im covering all bases.

Also, my current engine has top end oiling issues at idle. its the cause of my lifter noise.

at idle 650 rpm, at full operating temp, I have lots of lifter noise. lots of slapping. not a good thing.
revving the engine above 800rpm, gets rid of all noise.
letting it settle back at 650 will be quiet for about 5-10 seconds until the oil film is worn away.

I have a remote starter... and i use it. its fort mcmurray... we have -50c days in winter.

reving the engine is raising the pressure, as full pressure is not achieved at idle...
so i would think i would want a higher volume pump to hit higher pressures sooner....

what is your idle oil pressure and what oil are you running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
and it looks like summit website was confusing me with the pumps a bit... some pumps coming with adjustable kits it was calling high pressure pumps.

so really the choice is standard volume or high volume, many have adjustable spring pressure as well.

running 5w20, oil pressure... is hmm... let me go look for something accurate... plug my laptop into the obd... huh?!? there is no reading from the pcm for oil pressure? wow just got the dummy gauge on the dash?!?. its "good". straight up at idle, hair to the left but still touching the middle mark line.

well definitely going to address gauge thing on the new build at some point.
 

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just got the dummy gauge on the dash?!?. its "good". straight up at idle, hair to the left but still touching the middle mark line.

the factory gauge reads midway at 9psi and above, so it isn't telling you anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 · (Edited)
... also with that cam you are highly likely to have stalling issues because the factory pcm isn't going to like it, even with a custom tune. the wide LSA would help, but you're likely going to have to idle it high to keep it running.

stalling issues were more than half the reason i installed the terminator system, trust me it gets annoying not being able to stop for a red light without constantly manipulating the throttle to keep the motor running.
hmm...
this 2005 300c is running the hrt 3 cam, and its not even tuned yet according to the video description. even gives a nice shot of the tac. list of mods in video description does not mention custom PCM, but does say its not tuned yet.

not everyone is as lucky though....
runs better after tuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 · (Edited)
and also the HRT3 camshaft (just camshaft) was recommended to my builder by comp cams engineering department.
they knew it was a street build stroker with stock PCM and ported heads. they didnt even recommend the stiffer springs.

i chose to go full master kit, lifters, push rods, stiffer springs, locks ect.... since i was going to buy most those parts anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
For what the truck is, and for what you want the truck to do. "That's the wrong cam." You should consider a high tq/rv cam. Your truck is heavy. You need lower rpm torque cam to get it moving.
Just suggesting.
Well, that is why i chose the intake that I did, its going to give me the most low end tq, the cam will give it some top end.
Trying to balance it out. Adding more torque to the lower end would almost seem too much. plus its a stroker to begin with theres more tq too.
Its a project engine anyway. Trying stuff. Having fun...
Its just a camshaft. My engine builder works for basically free.
 
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