The most expensive part of this swap is the controller and the drive shaft. But if you're going to upgrade your drive shaft then it's just the controller. The flywheel and starter are not that expensive if you use the car transmission.
Swapping in an 8HP70
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yes if you select a manual transmission then it will not illuminate the gear display in the cluster. no PRND21 and no boxes, it will be blank. when doing this you will also need to supply a ground to the coil on the ASD relay in the fuse/relay box under the hood in order to defeat the no-start condition set by the pcm. very simple and easy to do. I can post pictures and instructions tomorrow when I get home, let me know if you want me to.
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yes that’s would be great if you don’t mind.
Hello guys I have an update, making good progress. I have to tweak a few more things. I have noticed that my speed in the PCS software is approximately 10 MPH off from my speedo in my truck. Does anyone know what I can change in the calibrations to correct that? Also I have installed a tech driver but my RPM is still spiking up and down causing the transmission to go into limp mode. I am using the number one coil, is there a better place to go? And does anyone know what wire in our trucks runs the factory tech can I use that for a better RPM signal?
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Factory tach is driven off a data line not a single drive wire. The coil should be good. I wonder if you have a bad coil causing a spike condition on the line.
So since you brought up a possible bad coil I moved the tack driver pick up to the coil behind the number one cylinder and Walla no more RPM Spike. Guess I need to start looking around for some coils.
Just a simple little thing can screw with these wiring looms, try cleaning the connector 1st, my Daily 04 Ram had a few real "dirty coil connections" ....remember these trucks are old enough to vote now.
Just had this conversation earlier today, We've had ten 2018/2020 SRT392 cars/Jeeps come through the shop in the last 2 years with a mysterious # 8 miss firing, it's the Wiring harness for the Injector, and the sad thing is the OEM harnesses are hit and miss.
All but one is a boosted application and that one is a BIG G3 , the run of the mill 392NA builds, those are not taxing the Injector enough to cause a miss fire. One of the 18s came to us for a engine rebuild, owner is going rounds with the Pro tuner who tuned it .. he kept telling Tuner dude there was something wrong but Tuner Dude keep upping the Misfire limits on #8 till it burned up.
You know it's funny you should say the fuel injectors because when I had the RPM wire for the PCS connected directly to the fuel injector it was doing the same Spike to the RPM in the software.. I wonder how much a new harness what cost for both fuel injectors and coils? And be very leery of tuners who want to keep turning off knock sensors and turning down misfires to get vehicles to stop pulling power. In my eyes if it doesn't feel right it's not right.
Knock Sensors are a double edge sword, they are too sensitive at stock settings. triggered too easily buy internal noises.
but come in handy when "pro tuner" wants to run timing over 24*(5.7s) and 26/28* (OEM6.4) a good tune and good fuel eliminates the need for KR, which is why I don't tune E-85 for street applications too many variables, too much of a quality swing , it can be 53% or it could be 83% or any where in-between.
that's a wiseco piston on E85 in a Eagle Headed .030 ,4.05 stroke 5.7 on 12lbs of boost, some where in the 11.to 1 range., KR was reduced to 3.5v across all 8 , but missfire detection was set to 6k RPMs, timing was limited to 24^ in WOT but the Max MBT tables were left stock,
So what happens is , when the ECU gets told there's too much timing for the crap fuel we are running, the ECU allows the KR function to pull Timing, but the Driver is telling the ECU I want 75-100% power(TQ/Airflow demand) , so the ECU will over ride the KR function and run timing up to MAX MBT table values for that KPA reading....why you might ask, because the KR function 'left the WOT table, driver's foot is still planted against the fire wall, and all WOT tables are opend....it will not go back to PT spark/fueling tables till the Throttle demand is below threshold........
so the Programs next protocol is go to MBT max table.
Now Misfire detection over rides TQ/Airflow demand and reduces timing to max retard table depending on KR sensor feed back....... then it will pull fuel to keep from fouling plugs and causing a stall situation.......
.....which is why all "speed reduction" is based on Timing and not fuel.
but come in handy when "pro tuner" wants to run timing over 24*(5.7s) and 26/28* (OEM6.4) a good tune and good fuel eliminates the need for KR, which is why I don't tune E-85 for street applications too many variables, too much of a quality swing , it can be 53% or it could be 83% or any where in-between.
that's a wiseco piston on E85 in a Eagle Headed .030 ,4.05 stroke 5.7 on 12lbs of boost, some where in the 11.to 1 range., KR was reduced to 3.5v across all 8 , but missfire detection was set to 6k RPMs, timing was limited to 24^ in WOT but the Max MBT tables were left stock,
So what happens is , when the ECU gets told there's too much timing for the crap fuel we are running, the ECU allows the KR function to pull Timing, but the Driver is telling the ECU I want 75-100% power(TQ/Airflow demand) , so the ECU will over ride the KR function and run timing up to MAX MBT table values for that KPA reading....why you might ask, because the KR function 'left the WOT table, driver's foot is still planted against the fire wall, and all WOT tables are opend....it will not go back to PT spark/fueling tables till the Throttle demand is below threshold........
so the Programs next protocol is go to MBT max table.
Now Misfire detection over rides TQ/Airflow demand and reduces timing to max retard table depending on KR sensor feed back....... then it will pull fuel to keep from fouling plugs and causing a stall situation.......
.....which is why all "speed reduction" is based on Timing and not fuel.
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18,212 Posts
Ouch.
Okay update, my truck is up and running, I have my tune dialed into about 95%. Have the rev limiter set at 5,000 RPMs till I get it completely dialed in. I have an issue where the transmission will not shift it goes right to the rev limiter unless I lift off the gas pedal when I have it in drive. I have not tried to manually shift it though. Anyone have suggestions or an idea why?
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18,212 Posts
You making a wot pull or just normal driving?
Wot pool, driving normally it shifts up through the gears and down shifts no problem.
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Then it’s because you have your rev limiter set lower than the actual shift points. Hence it hits rev limiter and won’t shift because it’s waiting for higher rpm’s
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