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Proud Canadian
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146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #21 ·
This is an amazing write-up. Thank you! I also have the SGA kit and 8hp70 sitting in the garage waiting for install in my 2011 Sport. I'm in about $2500 right now, but still need the driveshaft. I put a stroker motor in the truck last winter and am planning for a supercharger soon. The 545RFE will certainly not hold the power I plan to put down, so the 8 speed swap is a must for me. Your very detailed description (thank you again...) brought to light a few items I hadn't thought about such as the dust cover issue. As stated above, I'm hoping the tuning will be easier with my PCM compared to what you went through. I had Ryan from Flyin' Ryan Performance tune the engine, so I already have HP Tuners. I just have to get the credits for the 8hp70.

Question for you: Who did your driveshaft? My truck is a crew cab, so with this swap I'm estimating the driveshaft to be around 85 inches. I'm being told by most that it will be too long for a 1-piece. Far From Stock is the only place to say it is possible but only with a steel shaft. My 8hp70 is from a 2020 Charger, so I will need to either change the output flange to the truck version or use the Sonnax adapter you described. If I can swap to the truck flange, I think I can use the 2-piece shaft from the newer trucks, but I would rather go 1-piece. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm planning to start the swap in the next few weeks...wish me luck!

I am not sure if the output flanges are interchangeable, but I am assuming they would be. from what I have heard the factory slip shaft (or however they describe the truck driveshafts) are junk. I don't know though. I had a local shop build me the driveshaft, it cost me about 700 bucks which would be 500ish USD. the transmission i am running is also from a 2020 challenger. good thing the guys who buy those cars forget how to drive.

if it were me in your case I would get a two piece shaft made and then just fab up a crossmember for the center bearing, and get a slip joint in the rear half. I have no regrets going with the sonnax adapter and of you are going that route, I have a spare in the garage so pm me if you want to figure something out on it. hasn't been used.

I am amazed that place would build you a one piece driveshaft that is that long. that's an insane length for a one piece shaft, and made of steel too. yikes.
 

Red Trucker
Joined
257 Posts
This is an amazing write-up. Thank you! I also have the SGA kit and 8hp70 sitting in the garage waiting for install in my 2011 Sport. I'm in about $2500 right now, but still need the driveshaft. I put a stroker motor in the truck last winter and am planning for a supercharger soon. The 545RFE will certainly not hold the power I plan to put down, so the 8 speed swap is a must for me. Your very detailed description (thank you again...) brought to light a few items I hadn't thought about such as the dust cover issue. As stated above, I'm hoping the tuning will be easier with my PCM compared to what you went through. I had Ryan from Flyin' Ryan Performance tune the engine, so I already have HP Tuners. I just have to get the credits for the 8hp70.

Question for you: Who did your driveshaft? My truck is a crew cab, so with this swap I'm estimating the driveshaft to be around 85 inches. I'm being told by most that it will be too long for a 1-piece. Far From Stock is the only place to say it is possible but only with a steel shaft. My 8hp70 is from a 2020 Charger, so I will need to either change the output flange to the truck version or use the Sonnax adapter you described. If I can swap to the truck flange, I think I can use the 2-piece shaft from the newer trucks, but I would rather go 1-piece. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I'm planning to start the swap in the next few weeks...wish me luck!
With a 2011 you literally have have access to factory parts that will work for you; 3rd gen guys, we ain't so lucky lol.
 

Registered
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UN-believably GREAT write up !!!! You said it was possible to skip the connection to the radiator and use a cooler only, as long as it were in a warm place???
I have done my swap and bought a new radiator, but now see there are no cooler lines.
Since I live in Florida and will only drive it on nice sunny days, can I run the cooler only and stay in the temperature zone you mention?
Thank You
 

Administrator
Joined
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Trans coolers are just that they cool and work great. The radiator coolers are not so much coolers but normalizers they will try and keep the trans the same temp and the engine. So if you run a free flowing line setup and good cooler it will run below 200 most times 170 all the time
 

Greg
Joined
20,017 Posts
This thread has been very informative. Yesterday I was talking to a guy who recently bought a Richard Petty built Bumble Bee. It's a beast.. he was saying the trans didn't shift properly when cold. Not that any of these hot rods run well cold. I referenced back to this thread telling him I had read these trans need to be at operating temp for the trans to shift correctly. In my own builds I have mostly used seperate coolers, but with the newer technology advance trans I see the need to quickly warm them up and regulate the temp at the same time...
 
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Proud Canadian
Joined
146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
UN-believably GREAT write up !!!! You said it was possible to skip the connection to the radiator and use a cooler only, as long as it were in a warm place???
I have done my swap and bought a new radiator, but now see there are no cooler lines.
Since I live in Florida and will only drive it on nice sunny days, can I run the cooler only and stay in the temperature zone you mention?
Thank You
what Charged392 said is correct.

The fluid was designed to run hot and the transmission was designed to run with hot fluid, and I have always found it performs best when it is nice and warm. personally I would say to run a heat exchanger with your coolant and see how it performs in your climate.

it will get the fluid up to temp quickly, which is what you want to do. if you find it gets and stays too warm, install an electric 3 position valve inline on your atf supply line to the heat exchanger, and run the valve NO to the heat exchanger and NC to a cooler, and then wire it up to a thermostat. during normal operation it will circulate your fluid through the heat exchanger, but if it gets too hot then the valve changes the flow to go through a cooler to take some heat out of it.

if your motor temps stay around 180-190, I would say that a heat exchanger would be the best route. it will keep you close to engine temp which is where you want to be anyways. check into the marine oil cooler I referenced in my writeup, they have several different sizes and they're compact and very effective to warm the fluid quickly and keep it at the desired temperature, and you will likely find that you don't even need a separate cooler unless you are running a 200+ degree thermostat in the motor and running the truck around road courses.
 

Proud Canadian
Joined
146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #27 ·
This thread has been very informative. Yesterday I was talking to a guy who recently bought a Richard Petty built Bumble Bee. It's a beast.. he was saying the trans didn't shift properly when cold. Not that any of these hot rods run well cold. I referenced back to this thread telling him I had read these trans need to be at operating temp for the trans to shift correctly. In my own builds I have mostly used seperate coolers, but with the newer technology advance trans I see the need to quickly warm them up and regulate the temp at the same time...

yeah they are very finicky but they work great as long as they are getting what they want. is he 100 percent certain that his fluid level is correct? it is very easy to underfill the transmission. the correct fill procedure has the motor running, fluid between 30-50 degrees Celsius, and the trans internals, cooler and lines full and then the pan full to the point where it is just dribbling out of the fill hole. it is very easy to miss the mark on this, especially with a cooler that has a thermostat.

I suspect he may be a little low on fluid, and when it warms up and the fluid expands a bit, the level is then just high enough for normal operation. it would definitely be worth him checking into. what is his setup?
 

Greg
Joined
20,017 Posts
I'll pass the information on to him.. I don't know the whole story on the engine. But has a aftermarket block and heads supposely 10:1cr. Procharged, 440ci (?) Cat only exhaust. He's getting some pre-boost. Which makes things interesting.. suspension is narrowed to carry wide tires inside the fenders. Couldn't find the boost, afr or trim guages. Think they are in his dash display, just couldn't bring them up. He's running 105 so isn't driving it alot. Which I told him is good until he finds his guages and knows his tune to take it easy. With traction control turned off it is all over the street.. It's a scary beast... no cage.. I think alot of money has been put into it...
 
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Registered
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Trans coolers are just that they cool and work great. The radiator coolers are not so much coolers but normalizers they will try and keep the trans the same temp and the engine. So if you run a free flowing line setup and good cooler it will run below 200 most times 170 all the time
Thank YOU so much !!!! I have Literally lost sleep over this.
 

Registered
Joined
3 Posts
what Charged392 said is correct.

The fluid was designed to run hot and the transmission was designed to run with hot fluid, and I have always found it performs best when it is nice and warm. personally I would say to run a heat exchanger with your coolant and see how it performs in your climate.

it will get the fluid up to temp quickly, which is what you want to do. if you find it gets and stays too warm, install an electric 3 position valve inline on your atf supply line to the heat exchanger, and run the valve NO to the heat exchanger and NC to a cooler, and then wire it up to a thermostat. during normal operation it will circulate your fluid through the heat exchanger, but if it gets too hot then the valve changes the flow to go through a cooler to take some heat out of it.

if your motor temps stay around 180-190, I would say that a heat exchanger would be the best route. it will keep you close to engine temp which is where you want to be anyways. check into the marine oil cooler I referenced in my writeup, they have several different sizes and they're compact and very effective to warm the fluid quickly and keep it at the desired temperature, and you will likely find that you don't even need a separate cooler unless you are running a 200+ degree thermostat in the motor and running the truck around road courses.
Thank YOU so much !!!! I have Literally lost sleep over this.
 

Proud Canadian
Joined
146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·

Mark G Senior Member
03Ram Stock & 05 Ram 5.7 Turbo Charged
Joined
1,996 Posts
I have decided to do this swap with both feet in.. I picked up an 8hp 70 today from a guy in Orlando that only has 7,000 miles on it, it came out of a 2016 Dodge charger.. I think I got lucky with only having to pay $700 for the transmission. It had been sitting in his garage still strapped on the crate from the salvage yard he bought it at 3 years ago. I will be referencing this thread several more times I'm sure well I do this swap. I have one question what do you do with the column shifter when swapping to a floor shifter?
 

Proud Canadian
Joined
146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
I have decided to do this swap with both feet in.. I picked up an 8hp 70 today from a guy in Orlando that only has 7,000 miles on it, it came out of a 2016 Dodge charger.. I think I got lucky with only having to pay $700 for the transmission. It had been sitting in his garage still strapped on the crate from the salvage yard he bought it at 3 years ago. I will be referencing this thread several more times I'm sure well I do this swap. I have one question what do you do with the column shifter when swapping to a floor shifter?
mine sat on a shelf in the garage for a few weeks before I finally tossed it in the trash.

as far as the steering column cover goes, I just left mine as is. with the shifter handle out of the column, the boot doesn't look out of place and covers the hole in the column just fine. I started looking for the plastic from a manual trans truck but then I realized I didn't care enough to bother with it so I just left it.

Speedometer Vehicle Odometer Motor vehicle Gauge
 

Greg
Joined
20,017 Posts
I first stuck a piece of black tape over the column hole, looked ok. Then finally came across the manual column covers and used them. Either way, its a personal choice. Good luck..
 

Mark G Senior Member
03Ram Stock & 05 Ram 5.7 Turbo Charged
Joined
1,996 Posts
My actual question is the procedure on how to remove the handle from the column and how do you setup the column when you're no longer going to use that shifting handle. I have never had the steering wheel off, I don't even know where to begin.......
 

Greg
Joined
20,017 Posts
I removed mine in 2013 so I'm going to be no help with procedures. The steering wheel doesn't need to be removed.. but a warning, disconnect the battery whenever you work around the air bag. You need to reference the service manual for procedures to remove the column cover. There are screws in the bottom cover that hold the two halves together. Remove the mechanism that locks the lever in park until brake pedal is pressed. The rest must be real simple as I don't remember any issues doing it. I installed a floor shift while still using the 545RFE trans.
Car Vehicle Steering wheel Automotive tire Steering part
 

Proud Canadian
Joined
146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #37 ·
My actual question is the procedure on how to remove the handle from the column and how do you setup the column when you're no longer going to use that shifting handle. I have never had the steering wheel off, I don't even know where to begin.......
White Font Line Parallel Motor vehicle
 

Mark G Senior Member
03Ram Stock & 05 Ram 5.7 Turbo Charged
Joined
1,996 Posts
Okay good info this helps.. I have done some hunting looking for a video.. I will be asking a lot of dumb questions I'm sure as I go forward...... Thanks!
 

Proud Canadian
Joined
146 Posts
Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Okay good info this helps.. I have done some hunting looking for a video.. I will be asking a lot of dumb questions I'm sure as I go forward...... Thanks!

It was a long time ago so I don't remember the specifics, but the shifter removal is pretty straightforward when you get under the plastic.
 
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Mark G Senior Member
03Ram Stock & 05 Ram 5.7 Turbo Charged
Joined
1,996 Posts
My 05 has the 545 transmission,flywheel, starter and the starter location plate should all work or am I missing something.?
 
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