Originally posted by Hemidup:

Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:
It would have helped if they were 9.5:1 CR like I ordered. But, they were'nt. The pistons were 10.5:1+ And as you know. You don't use those on a boosted engine.

We've ran as high of 10.5:1 comp with 15 psi of boost. on E85

 

Originally posted by Hemidup:

Originally posted by Hemidup:

Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:
It would have helped if they were 9.5:1 CR like I ordered. But, they were'nt. The pistons were 10.5:1+ And as you know. You don't use those on a boosted engine.

We've ran as high of 10.5:1 comp with 15 psi of boost on E85

 

Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:
It would have helped if they were 9.5:1 CR like I ordered. But, they were'nt.

I could do this all day too.............

 

Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:

Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:
It would have helped if they were 9.5:1 CR like I ordered. But, they were'nt.

I could do this all day too.............

 

Both of our "Reply With Quote" keys must be stuck.

 

Originally posted by Hemidup:
.020" above deck pistons, .042" piston to head clearance with Cometic head gaskets, .100" intake valve to piston clearance with 2.08" int valves and non valve relief notched Ross pistons

What thickness is the Cometic head gasket? .066 with closed chambered heads?

 

.062" Cometic head gaskets. .062" thick head gasket, less .020" postive deck piston leaves me with .042" quench/piston to head clearance.

 

Custom ordered Cometic head gasket?

 

Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:
Custom ordered Cometic head gasket?

Well I guess.... I called them to find out what thickness of head gaskets were available. With the use of different thickness layer's, Cometic can make Hemi head gaskets from .029" to .108". For my application my choices were .057, .062, .067 or .072.

 

 

It was the time for my yearly post read. It's VERY long, but brings back so many memories. So many have dropped from the performance Hemi truck scene since I started this post and I want to thank eveyone that have still stayed in touch.

Happy holiday's to all.

 

 

 

Just an update. Still putzin with the truck. Bought some Brisk RR14S non projected tip spark plugs. Also bought a Prosport dual intercooler ait gauge so I can monitor my before and after intake manifold air temps when using w/m or n2o.

 

That's a nice guage I may get one I still have one open pod in my truck and that's a good one to monitor

Those are some really cold plugs I may need them myself here shortly not sure yet good build you have there I need an intake manifold stock truck to restrictive

 

That's a nice guage I may get one I still have one open pod in my truck and that's a good one to monitor

Those are some really cold plugs I may need them myself here shortly not sure yet good build you have there I need an intake manifold stock truck to restrictive

I was assured by Brisk those plugs would be fine for both street and strip. A bit to cold for the street and a bit to hot for my setup at the strip with my app's. NGK tech's told me I should run a #8 heat range, but they don't make one for the Hemi's. A NGK #6 is good for 10 psi of boost. The NGK #7 is good for 20 psi of boost or 10 psi of boost with a 100 shot.

 

Have enjoyed the thread, pls keep us updated when you can.

 

What's the full number to the NGK#7 plugs?

 

what's the full number to the ngk#7 plugs?

ltr7ix

 

I'm on 12psi using the tr5-1 do you thing I should run one colder when I checked them after a run they looked to be ok

 

Also on a side note. The tech from NGK said their plugs were pre gapped at .044" out of the box and didn't recommend going tighter than .035". My Brisk plug gaps are .032" out of the box.

 

I'm running the same NGK plugs gapped at .030. Zip off the tip of the ground strap to square them up and they're good to go at 20 psi. No signs of overheating and the truck will actually idle when it's cold and wet outside unlike the last iridiums I tried at the same heat range.

Edit: Oops, these NGK plugs are the same crap plugs I threw in the garbage after 2000 miles. I'm running cheapy v-power plugs and change them every spring. Don't remember the # right now.

 

Spring is only 5 weeks away (yeah, right) so I thought I'd get an early head start with this years mod's. First I bought a steering column dual gauge pod for my a/f and intake temp gauges. I then removed my Superchips tune and will be going with Preditor CMR tuning and I'm still putzin with another transmission revision. In the mean time I'll be waiting for the snow to melt.

 

steering column dual gauge pod, preditor cmr tuning, another transmission revision.

:sweet1:

 

I'll be waiting for the snow to melt.

Must be a northern thing......ONLY gonna' be 73 here today...:dance::dance:

 

"I'm still putzin with another transmission revision. In the mean time I'll be waiting for the snow to melt".

:brows::bow:

 

Spring fever...

 

Still putzin with a new prototype transmission mod. All the mod's I'm doing are in the weak ud/od assembly which is the same as before but I'm going at it with a different approach. In the past few days with basic hand tools, venier caliper's, calculator, my past notes, notebook, pen, index drill bits and assorted jeweler files have been my new friends and I keep the JB Weld handy just in case of a whoops. I'll also be trying a different combo of steels and frictions this time, but figure I'll need 200 psi of line pressure at a minimum for what I have in mind.

 

How are you over riding the electronics to get 200psi? I would be very happy if I could make mine hold 160psi and take electronics out of it.

Thanks

 

Couple ways I can try. Electronically, mechanically or a combo of both. I'm working on the mechanics side first. I've been trying to find an old STS turbo resistor harness to experiment with where the resistor is installed pre TCM, but so far no luck. Also have David/Whitehemi on board now that I'm going with Diablo for my PCM and TCM tuning.

 

Here's a pic of the STS trans resistor that Stu provided me.

 

Ok, thanks..
I'll try to figure out what is shown in the picture.
Appears to have simply grounded the (03) Yel/Grn wire.

Thanks,

Edit: That is the TMR mod which is usually done at the TCM. In this case it is being done at the PCM end of the #10 Yel/Grn wire.