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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After calling many engine rebuild shops, turns out a lot of shops are not taking any work due to back orders. And the ones that are available have a decent amount of negative review. I called modern muscle and mmx and their builders don’t have 6.1 forged cranks. I’m just looking for a 5.7 rebuild not stroker. I called manley and they did not recommend their forged crankshaft for boosted hemi. I was shocked. He said it’s not recommended for 20+ up. Told him I was going 12-15psi. He then backtracked. After tear down I’m thinking to tackle this myself. Cylinder bores look great. Don’t want to over overbore. Of course I’ll check all clearances and ring gap. Any tips on parts for stock bore and stroke for boosted application. Of course I’m on a budget but if I’m going to do it, want it done right. Thanks if anything.
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2004 GTX
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Those Bores are "ok" for NA , but for boost, by the time they are cleaned up enough ....they'll be 3.922(.005 over)
While working at Comp Cams, spent many of dealing with Manley personal.....surprised that tech said that about 20psi..their own in house dyno test they ran up to 28LBS and close to 1200hp , they would pop the heads off test 5.7s or split the block before those 4340 cranks would tap out....Eagle 4.05 and Scat 4.05s/408s those will break around 1100.

If you "need" to have a forged stock stroke (3.58) crank....Monlar's 345-3580JB6F and 345-3593JB6F cranks are around 1k now. you are not going to make enough power to hurt either one of those cranks.
345-3580 is OEM stroke, the 345-3593 is a 3.59 crank and it's more of a SS/XX Drag pak crank, we've spun both well in to the low 8k RPM range and made over 1k with each, our 3.0l Whipple 347(3.922X3.593) with AFR heads hit 1300(1295) RWHP this morning on our Mustang Dyno in a 69Valiant.

Ric(ric3xrt) has a 361(4.0X3.593) with BGE heads that his niece has been banging off the 8000k limiter in her 04 Bee for about 3 years now. Runs low 10s at 120's at 4k race weight, makes around 740hp.
 

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45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I could not find a single builder considering delays and parts backordered. Hpp would not get back to me. I’ve finally found a builder who plans on doing as you mentioned .005 over. Full Manley kit. ARP studs for mains. I do have the 46re modified from Martin saine which was at the maximum 700hp. I originally didn’t anticipate going past 7psi. Was not really impressed with the power, but the 2600 stall(recommended) and 3.92 gears don’t really help. I do need it as a daily driver. I’m just debating whether to stay at 7 or creep up to 10 or as maybe 15lbs. It is getting quite expensive and while have a rebuilt diff with trutrac posi I don’t want to have more down time on repairs.(no slicks). Obviously arp studs and cometic head gaskets would be ideal. Any thoughts on felpro mls head gaskets and arp head bolts whether 10 or 15psi? The heads look like in great shape. I just realized about possible dropping valve seats(if it’s a common thing with boosted applications? I planned on changing seals and springs myself(save $ on labor). Aside from flashlight what would be the best approach beside new cylinder head, to avoid a dropped valve seat destroying the rebuilt motor. Again heads look great, never overheated, always ram mopar coolant. I don’t want to send the heads for a full rebuild($800) if it doesn’t need it. My tuner recommended srt4 stage 2 injectors and ken bell boost a pump. I’ve read on some builders going for dual fuel pumps(I’m not
Going E85). This is a daily driver and don’t mind taking to track once and a while. Any recommendations is appreciated.
 

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2004 GTX
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79 Posts
I prefer Head bolts when dealing with 3rd/4th Gen rams, but reality is boost and G3 hemi= Head studs , reality is there really is only 4 head bolts per-cylinder on the G3 platform, those 8mm bolts above the Lifter galley are only there to keep oil from seeping out....yes I've Dyno'd and a I know two others who have also done test pulls with out those 4X8mm bolts per-side......

Fel-pro and the OEM Mahle are good to about 10 lbs ...at least in my/our (kids shop) experience.

As for Heads, personally I think the Pre-Eagle Valve seat "issue" is more hysteria then reality , not saying there wasn't a rash of them but the internet makes it out to be 1 in 3 go bad type hype......But freshening up the heads or getting Eagles is money spent on security/piece of mind....but Eagle(s) open up more expenses that you really don't need.

There are a few Ebay guys who sell refurbished 03-08(pre Eagles) Odessa cylinder head , Bishop Engine, and Rome(pantoj) , all of them do a great job. romepantoj has a few sets on there now @$650 free shipping.

I have never heard anyone being disappointed in the SRT4 Injectors, I've read many threads here were Greg and Keith talked highly of them, I know of two others who swear unless you plan on going over 550-650 you can't go wrong with the SRT4 injectors .......I've never used them,
I usually use Siemens 60lbs Injectors for under 650-700hp. and FIC for anything over 700.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Just spoke with builder. He’ll be using monlar’s forged crank(Manley only available for stroker) using Manley rods and DSS pistons. Never heard of DSS. Read a lot of good reviews and minor questionable. Out of curiosity, should I go with 15lbs would cometic be the only choice? As for head studs Ive read conflicting issues about unable to remove heads while motor is in vehicle since head sliding up hits firewall. That was for a challenger I believe. Don’t know if that’s the same with rams. Lastly, as mentioned I did have gears bearings rebuilt last year along with trutrac. Do you think the rear axles will hold up with 15lbs? Just trying to see what the limitations considering I’ve pretty much h rebuilt everything.
 

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2004 GTX
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Cometic is go to choice...... Clark copper head gaskets(Copper Head Gaskets | Clark Copper Head Gaskets | United States) is the Money no object choice. we split a hellcat head at 32lbs but that Clark gasket looked new......reality is for what you are building....Cometic is best option

Head bolt Vs Stud, if you plan on pulling the heads after it's built , then heads bolts are you friend, but reality is once you build this engine there should be no reason to pull the heads, only two reasons you pull the heads 1 would be the replace lifters...and lets face it if you need to change lifters after the engine is installed, then some thing went wrong that shouldn't have. 2nd reason would be to change the heads.

DSS have a long loyal following in the LS community. the 2618 alloy pistons play havoc on knock sensors when cold , but it's more of an issue with the later ECUs GPEC2 & GPEC2a , while the 4032 is a better all round piston it doesn't like High boost long term abuse...... soooo you really need to make that decision before it's built , is it 10lbs and Long life , or 14-18 and yeah I'll rebuild it in 3 years.

as for the 9.25 rear,.....If it was rebuilt with a crush sleeve , I would stay close to the 600hp range, the issue with the crush sleeve is , it never stops "crushing" the harder your trans shifts the more likely the sleeve will kept contracting and in turn that will decrease gear contact area.
My 04 GTX with the 468 , I didn't build this truck, I bought it built, I've done a lot to it....but the 9.25 rear that had the 4.88s in it was built in 2011 and it was done with the intent of living behind 800+ hp , the crush sleeve was replaced with a solid spacer, the main caps are studded, the axel ends were converted over to ford 9in to eliminate the C-clips, the axles are strange 31spilne ,same as a 31 9in ford application and in-till I wanted 5:13s , it was living behind 750ish hp 468ci G3 .....a well built 9.25 will take 800hp, one that the average dealership does....is a crap shoot. I would get a spare build it with a crush sleeve eliminator...... insurance is good have.
 
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