Ok come on. 6 views and nobody has any knowledge? Seriously I would go as far out of the way as going in garage if I knew I had a chiltons for a dudes car and send him pics via text to help him.
Rear pinion seal f-up... Help
Ok. Pinion seal leaks... Fix it. I got drive shaft off, and the pinion nut off.. Took a beer brake. I hit up YouTube and searched how to replace a pinion seal on my rig.(it's been 10 years since I took a drive shaft off and it was on a 83 ranger). So I decided to watch the video to check it out...
Well like usuall I was rushing, I didn't mark the flange, nut and count the threads for re-assemble. So Iam at a stand still, and Iam worried if if **** it up, I will cause damage to diff.
At this point, damage is done, Iam pulling off yoke and going to replace the seal, slide yoke back on.... As far as the nut is concerned, what the hell do I do?
I've read on forums you gotta redo backlash, or you're nut down to 180-200ft/lbs.... And read something about pinion/ wheel engagement something like +3-5 in/lb?????
So please help me do this right
After seal is replaced, yoke on how tight should nut be? And does it matter if drive shaft is connected EXACTLY the same way!
Thanks folks, help fast. Planning on Saskatoon Saskatchewan goose hunt Saturday
Well like usuall I was rushing, I didn't mark the flange, nut and count the threads for re-assemble. So Iam at a stand still, and Iam worried if if **** it up, I will cause damage to diff.
At this point, damage is done, Iam pulling off yoke and going to replace the seal, slide yoke back on.... As far as the nut is concerned, what the hell do I do?
I've read on forums you gotta redo backlash, or you're nut down to 180-200ft/lbs.... And read something about pinion/ wheel engagement something like +3-5 in/lb?????
So please help me do this right
After seal is replaced, yoke on how tight should nut be? And does it matter if drive shaft is connected EXACTLY the same way!
Thanks folks, help fast. Planning on Saskatoon Saskatchewan goose hunt Saturday
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Well that's ok it's not the end of the world two options here
1. Just run it down with the gun till its tight or
2. Pull the wheel remove the brakes Install the nut and tighten till snug then continue to tighten slowly in 5-10lb increments until the pinion nut rotating force is about 25-30inlbs its sapposed to be less but you will have the axles and everything still connected so that will be the closest way
Will need a 1/2 torque wrench or breaker bar and a 1/4 torque wrench
1. Just run it down with the gun till its tight or
2. Pull the wheel remove the brakes Install the nut and tighten till snug then continue to tighten slowly in 5-10lb increments until the pinion nut rotating force is about 25-30inlbs its sapposed to be less but you will have the axles and everything still connected so that will be the closest way
Will need a 1/2 torque wrench or breaker bar and a 1/4 torque wrench
I changed mine twice. Both times counted the turns. But I remeber it was never over tight. I would put it on till you feel it stop and then give it a quarter of a turn. Thing is you dont want to over tighten it . Use a good seal . Timpkin (or sounds like that ) are good seals .
I changed mine twice. Both times counted the turns. But I remeber it was never over tight. I would put it on till you feel it stop and then give it a quarter of a turn. Thing is you dont want to over tighten it . Use a good seal . Timpkin (or sounds like that ) are good seals .
I understand that as I tighten the pinion seal, eventually it will become"tight" the nut will come into contact with the crush sleeve, and you don't want to furth crush it. So correct me if Iam wrong. I remember when I was taking it off, the truck was rocking back and forth, stuck my mallet hammer behind tire, and really just gave her a good yank to get it loose.
So if I start tightening the pinion nut till I feel her getting snug/ tight then give it a 1/4 1/2 turn, I should be good?
I currently do not have to necessary tools to rip my breaks apart and all. As of right now, if I can fix my problem with what tools I got made available to me now and not cause irreparable damage to ring pinion bearings etc .... I can drive 100 miles to my buddies place where he would be able to put it in a lift, and properly and professionally fix my fuk up by doing new bearings, new crush sleeve, check backlash and the grooving marks on ring pinion
Just for clarity, it doesn't sound like he's asking you to "rip" your brakes apart...I believe it's just moving the calipers out of the way.. Not completely removing them. So two bolts (each) with a socket set.
Good luck with the pinion... Took 3 dealers to get mine right. Each one blamed it on the other not doing something right. 
How did it turn out for yah
Gotta love this, what in the world are you working on... the only thing you did mention was a ranger you had 10 yrs ago...
Are you working on a D-70, D-80, 9.25, D-60, AAM 10.5, AAM 11.5...
Are you working on a D-70, D-80, 9.25, D-60, AAM 10.5, AAM 11.5...
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
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