[PatTxHemi]

Well last year I started to have some overheating problems. I have ended up replacing the water pump, t-stat, Radiator, Radiator cap and radiator hoses. Even changing back to stock tune and cutting the cat out. But the heating still remains. On 100+ days after about 15 minutes of driving it will get up to 230 running empty and I cant even pull a trailer anymore. When I recently replaced the radiator and hoses I noticed a white grime on in the radiator and the hoses. I'm not sure if this evidence of electrolysis but I think it is. I have a picture of the inside of the hoses.

 

[PatTxHemi]

Well last year I started to have some overheating problems. I have ended up replacing the water pump, t-stat, Radiator, Radiator cap and radiator hoses. Even changing back to stock tune and cutting the cat out. But the heating still remains. On 100+ days after about 15 minutes of driving it will get up to 230 running empty and I cant even pull a trailer anymore. When I recently replaced the radiator and hoses I noticed a white grime on in the radiator and the hoses. I'm not sure if this evidence of electrolysis but I think it is. I have a picture of the inside of the hoses.

 

[ArcticWolf]

There's a few possibilities it might be...

1. How many miles on the truck currently?

2. What kind of anti-freeze have you been using?

3. When you replaced your radiator, was there a lot of crud in it - ie: similar to what you have posted above?

4. Have you ever had the engine and cooling system throughly and completely flushed?

Possibilities that could be the problem:

Poor fitting radiator cap - allowing air to be sucked in..

Improperly tightened hoses - radiator and heater hoses - same as above..

Possible leaky head gasket..

Bad Fan - either electric or stock - may not be pulling enough air - this also goes for poor air circulation - something blocking the air flow into the radiator/engine compartment.

 

[MikeHTally]

15 min. on the highway or in town?

 

[5SpeedHemi]

Are you loosing any antifreeze

 

[charged392]

If your loosing coolant and it's not on the floor check the oil for water you may have a head gasket issue

One way to check start truck in the morning and then check to see if the radiator hose has pressure by squeezing it if it does right after you start truck your head gaskets are leaking or at least one is

Cylinder pressure far exceeds coolant pressure so sometimes the coolant won't even go away air will just be pushed into system causing cavitation and air pockets just another possibility here

 

[PatTxHemi]

Originally posted by ArcticWolf:
There's a few possibilities it might be...

1. How many miles on the truck currently?

2. What kind of anti-freeze have you been using?

3. When you replaced your radiator, was there a lot of crud in it - ie: similar to what you have posted above?

4. Have you ever had the engine and cooling system throughly and completely flushed?

Possibilities that could be the problem:

Poor fitting radiator cap - allowing air to be sucked in..

Improperly tightened hoses - radiator and heater hoses - same as above..

Possible leaky head gasket..

Bad Fan - either electric or stock - may not be pulling enough air - this also goes for poor air circulation - something blocking the air flow into the radiator/engine compartment.

I have about 231K on the truck.
It overheats mostly going down the highway and cools off when I come to a stop.
The white stuff was in the radiator and I could see some in the thermostat housing.
I'm using 50/50 O'reilly's Coolant.
I have never had it completely flushed out. Bought the truck @ 144K and not sure it was done before that.
The radiator cap is new and fits tight and I'm not loosing any coolant.

 

[charged392]

From that statement right there over heats going down highway cools at stops is almost positively a head gasket issue have it block tested at a shop to confirm for sure

 

[MikeHTally]

I wonder if you have a hose that's collapsing. That would choke off the coolant at speed.

 

[PatTxHemi]

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll go get it tested out.

 

[Superjay]

The things that you've already changed, would cure 90% of any over heating problems. Therefore, it's something odd-ball.

1. Though new, a thermostat can be defective.
2. Any large restrictions in ex system.
3. Fan mounted back wards.
4. Slipping belt.
5. Puter or sensor/sensors faulty, tricking puter in to too much advance, or retard.
6. Something restricting air flow through radiator.
7. Air trapped in system.
8. Temp ga. reading wrong.
9. I seriously doubt head gasket is the problem. If combustion gasses got into the cooling system, it would pressurize it high enough to make the radiator cap raise, to lower the pressure, and fluid would be low when you checked it. If it allowed fluid into the combustion chamber, you would also be low on fluid.

 

[RANCHER]

If the head gaskets are good have it flushed, make sure there is no air in the system. Jay posted some really good things to check. But then he is an expert.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

You have something odd going on. I haven't done this but I believe you can buy a hydrocarbon kit from NAPA to see if there is any cylinder gases escaping into you cooling system. I would do this first and if it is good then I would replace the cats. Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

[Superjay]

then I would replace the cats

He said in his post that he cut the cat out.

 

[Redtruck-VA]

I missed the part about the cats being removed. Here is a youube showing th test I was refering to.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ON_RtokUohI

 

[ArcticWolf]

This video shows the color change better:

http://youtu.be/WG-gDkWswjQ

 

[PatTxHemi]

Good video. I may have to try that.
I have tried multiple t-stats. Do you think that white gunk could be blocking up the motor?

 

[PatTxHemi]

And how can i tell if the belt is slipping over the w pump?

 

[PatTxHemi]

I went and had it flushed and did that combustion chamber leak test and it's still doing the same. I ran it and the blue dye never changed to yellow so i guess there isn't any leaks. I'm lost

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...wxlN-As&feature=plcp

 

[Redtruck-VA]

Just thinking out loud, Normally the engine will cool at highway speed with all the air passing through the radiator. The engine is also making more power when the engine speed is up creating more heat. Your problem is odd, so going back to basic's would be my next step. With the engine at normal temperature check the radiator surface to see if there are any cold (cooler) spots indicating the water is not properly circulating. I have seen clear pipes inserted into the radiator hoses on some SRT's jeeps and Chally's. This might help to determine circulation of the water pump. Good luc...

Added thought,is your heater working? Does your engine temp go down with the heater running?