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Greg
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Can I make a request for the video on Cam Degreeing to be next ? :hide:
I'm going to be throwing mine in next ........ :dance:
Can you post your cam card? And refresh my memory what timing set you are going to use. We just did mine using a oem timing set and LS style offset dowels.
 
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Can I make a request for the video on Cam Degreeing to be next ? :hide:
I'm going to be throwing mine in next ........ :dance:
I think the big thing to remember if you are doing it with out the heads installed , is #1 Intake is the 2nd lifter bore on the Drivers bank, that was what messed up Chris for a bit and none of us who have done it thought to ask him which Lifter bore he was using for measurement.
 

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Can you post your cam card? And refresh my memory what timing set you are going to use. We just did mine using a oem timing set and LS style offset dowels.
Interesting point on the Dowels , I've always use bushings , pike the cam gear and use a larger washer to cover the bushing....the bad thing with either is you can't advance or retard the cam gear too much with out affecting the timing sensor.

I've always wondered about advancing/retarding the Crank tone wheel, may be advance it 4deg I've skipped a tooth on the VVT set ups to help get a installed Center line I wanted....More on that later
 

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I think the big thing to remember if you are doing it with out the heads installed , is #1 Intake is the 2nd lifter bore on the Drivers bank, that was what messed up Chris for a bit and none of us who have done it thought to ask him which Lifter bore he was using for measurement.
No Video yet....but Here's photo of the #1 intake lifter
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
Can you post your cam card? And refresh my memory what timing set you are going to use. We just did mine using a oem timing set and LS style offset dowels.
I'll look for my cam card , but basically it's a comp cams 260 but I had it ground with a 114* LSA , wanted to take the POSSIBILTY of it not working with my OLD 2003 PCM off the table completely , I'll see how it works over the winter and if/when I want more cam I'll at least have a baseline .
 

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Greg
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We've had some problems with dialing in the cam. When we go back and check the timing is shifted a couple degrees. Have another timing set on order. I'm not a fan of the roller chains, but the set ordered has larger rollers for better fit. Also a spacer to compensate for being wider. The crank sprocket has 9 keyway configurations for dialing it in.. we will see.
 

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Discussion Starter · #128 ·
No Video yet....but Here's photo of the #1 intake lifter
Someone had a photo of the placement of the dial indicators when doing a "heads off" cam degreeing , but I can't remember who it was :confused:

"I can't remember" seams to be showing up more and more in my dialogue as these Birthdays pile up !!! :banghead:
 
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Greg
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We should be doing mine again next week and I can get photos. The mag base on the block surface with the dial plunger inline with the lifter. Piston stops seem to be the most accurate to locat tdc. Coat hanger wire bolted to the block as pointer for the wheel. Should look like this when positioned.
My engine builder like to roll the motor over a couple times then re-checks the alignment. If it is off he starts over..
 

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Someone had a photo of the placement of the dial indicators when doing a "heads off" cam degreeing , but I can't remember who it was :confused:

"I can't remember" seams to be showing up more and more in my dialogue as these Birthdays pile up !!! :banghead:
Check Chris's Stoker thread .
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Hey Guys,
I'm back, got sidetracked for a couple years , work, remodeling, kids, ya know that life stuff that gets in the way,
So, I'm starting back up where I left off , and that is ..............
THE PUSHROD QUESTION ???
So block ATK SP97 decked .005"
Heads milled .025"
Cometic HG .030"
cam circle difference ???
The cam is the CROWER 33492 206*/213* yes it's small, like a comp 260 but ground on 114 and 2* less intake dur.
but that way it is almost guaranteed to run on the 03 PCM.
cam card
camtag33492.pdf

So I'm trying to figure out pushrod length's and the only response I have got back so far is "measure them"
well &#& that's hard without the cam in and heads on, anyway someone got a hint ,
And yes I have read about 4 articles on it and either the math doesn't add up to me , or I just can't follow it ..
Any help would be appreciated
Happy Thanksgiving All
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Ow and I have a new timing chain to run by you guys <
The Crower timing chain ,
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Don't know if it's easier to read this cam card from a pdf , or just copied and pasted .....


Part Number/Work Order Number 33492
Engine Application 5.7 DODGE HEMI
Grind Number HYD.ROLLER
ADVERTISED CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS:
INTAKE:Duration: 254ºLift: .506Clearance Hot: .000
EXHAUST:Duration: 263ºLift: .528Clearance Hot: .000

The specifications listed above are based on a rocker arm ratio of 1.60 IN
1.60 EX

RECOMMENDED VALVE SPRING INFORMATION:
Part #SingleDualTriple
Approximate spring pressure:valve closed: 120# LBS.
valve open: 350# LBS.
-7.0 ATDC -11.0 BTDC
33.0 ABDC 44.0 BBDC
Timing Events
The information below is for degreeing cam only. Correct only at .050" tappet lift.
INTAKEOpens: -7.0 ATDC
Closes: 33.0 ABDC
EXHAUSTOpens: 44.0 BBDC
Closes: -11.0 BTDC

LOBE SEPARATION 114º
Duration at .050"Intake: 206º
Exhaust: 213º
LOBE LIFTIntake: .316
Exhaust: .330
4 degrees of advance have been ground into this Camshaft.

If using "Lobe Center" method of degreeing, cam should be installed on an intake centerline of: 110º
NOTES:
B 1600 INTAKE B 1602 EXHAUST110 INT.LC.118 EXH,LC.
Cams damaged by excessive spring pressure, over shimming, valve train bind or retainers contacting the guides are void from warranty. Refer to the "Important Camshaft and Lift Information" booklet included with each new Crower camshaft to avoid any break-in problems.
 

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Ow and I have a new timing chain to run by you guys <
The Crower timing chain ,
Crower's chains are good , Engintech is the only one I tell people to steer clear of, the rest of their stuff is fine.

Good choice on cam, should run fine with the 03 PCM, it'll surge once in a well, due to the computer not likening the MAP feed back, but some of that is the nature of the Intake manifold and vacuum signals created when RPMS return to idle, one thing most people don't understand about the 03-08 truck intake is the pinch point where the Airflow redirects from the TB to the plenum is actually smaller area then the OEM TB , the window of the pinch point is 46.750 CM in area and the TB is 50.27cm of area Poor design on DCX's part, it is why the LX auto Intake makes more TQ and HP per RPM.

I know you don't want to hear it but measure your stuff it's the only way to 100% sure ,

but the stock length 6.1s would be the best "guess" to buy , the Crower cams ,like Comp start out with a 1.50-1.54 base circle , same as the OEM6.1 and since your using stock 03-08 heads you don't need to add an extra .10-.125 for the different height of the rocker pedestals.

Might want to even try the oem 03 5.7s as a "length" checker , with .005 and .025 taken off of the deck and Heads you're looking at .030 off of the distance needed and the OEM cam base circle is 1.65-1.70 that's a.150 larger then your new cam, OEM 5.7s will be short by .1 to .120 so that'll give you a good ballpark to work with .

Remember HYD lifters like .080 to .100 preload.

And worse case you can sell the 6.1 pushrods if they have too much(or too little) preload.

Remember for the street guy and under 7k rpm freaks , hydraulic lifter push rods don't need to be perfect, but solid lifter PR's need to be no matter the application
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 · (Edited)
Thank You RAYS04GTX,
You're new here , welcome to HTC :)

Next Question : Which ATI Balancer have you guys used ?
I'm looking at an ATI 918433
 

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Discussion Starter · #138 ·
Ya, I think I'm just going to have to measure them , crap, more delays, my builder is going to hate me.

Another question I'm contemplating, passenger intake manifold ..... for the midrange torque
Besides the front cover change , I have one BTW, what accessories have to be moved ?
And how difficult is it ?
thanks in advance guys
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
I also posed this question by itself,

Hi Guys ,
So I am back, trying to finish the motor I started 2 years ago, the ATK 392 stroker, I was getting ready to drop it off at the builders place , going though all my parts ,BUT, when it came to head bolts, all I have are the Enginetech Head bolts I was going to use on a repair job from before (stock motor). I don't really want to use them, so I was wondering about how you guys feel about other brands , obviously ARP is my first choice. However the supply chain crap we are going though seems to have derailed the ability to easily get them (both bolts and studs) What are your thoughts on.........
Mopar ....... OEM 6506334AA
Felpro Head Bolts ....ES 72200
Clevite/Mahle Head Bolts ....GS 33429

Enginetech ........HB228
ARP Head Bolts ..........147-3901
ARP Head Studs .........244-4300

Thank You again for all the help here
 
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