Hemi Truck Club banner
81 - 100 of 149 Posts

·
Greg
Joined
·
20,040 Posts
From my own experience I have found port work is very important. If you can have the ports cnc'd you won't be disappointed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: oldmanram

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #82 ·
On the intake side I am just going to clean up the casting flash and do some bowl blending , In progress photo below
 

Attachments

·
Greg
Joined
·
20,040 Posts
That will help a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Just to close a book on the FIRST timing set that I received damaged , Jegs refunded the purchase price and after another email refunded the shipping I had to pay to send it back .
thank you Jegs
 

·
Greg
Joined
·
20,040 Posts
Good to hear..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #86 · (Edited)
Update: So I got busy with a remodel and have been a little distracted to update the progress on the motor, well I finished the remodel over the weekend.
UPDATE:

Heads: After much mental debate I decided to go with Inertia Motorsports Heads. I am paying the core charge , which after talking with Stu, and figuring out postage to ship my old heads down to Texas from Washington just didn't save me that much money, and added additional time to the overall timetable, shipping time, time to analyze my old heads , etc. So I'm going to just keep the heads I have now as a winter project.

I chose to go with the Fuel Efficiency heads (exhaust passage porting, and exhaust bowl work) + plus a little intake pocket porting, and clean up the intake passages, remove the casting flash. This should maintain low rpm (street ) driveability and help out the midrange/topend breathing a little.

When I ordered the heads it was a 6 week waiting period, that was 4 weeks ago.

The cam arrived a while back so in the meantime I'm going to install that while waiting on my heads. I'll update the cam and timing chain install in the coming weeks.

AND : I'll send photo's when the heads arrive

I know how you guys like "good head porn"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #87 · (Edited)
MY Heads arrived !!!! Thank You to Stu at Inertia !!
They look pretty good , I'm hoping they work as well as they look .
Inertia cleaned them up well , and even hit a few of the sharp corners with a wire wheel ! Nice touch , .(I'd have some photos but it's raining up here in Seattle, whats new, and my camera is out in the truck)
The exhaust ports look good , not quite as D shaped as I made mine, but hey they do it for a living, pocket porting looks good . So after drooling over them for awhile I was looking at my stock sludged up , 65K mile rocker shafts and arms that I was going to slap on the pedastils. I started doing a little more research on the shafts and arms , I just happen to catch what Redtruck is up to lately on his build, using the Stanke shafts and girdles and so I'm wondering...............
At what point do you upgrade the shafts and rockers ? RPM wise that is .
What about the longevity advantage of going with roller tipped rocker arms ?
wondering about cost vs return vs longevity

Old shafts and rockers cleaned up and thrown back on $ 0.00 ......(wear specs ??)
New oem shafts and rockers ?? About $400 almost $100 per shaft/rocker
Stanke Girdles (Like Redtruck)
Stanke Shafts (like Redtruck)

OR go with this whole setup for $900 Has anybody used this setup yet ???

Procomp Electronics
Mopar Chrysler 5.7L 6.1L 6.4L Hemi Stainless Steel Roller Rocker Arms & Shafts
SKU: PCE261.1247

Brand: Procomp Electronics
Part Number: PCE261.1247
Part Type: Rocker Arms

Rocker Arm Mounting Style: Shaft
Rocker Arm Ratio: 1.60
Rocker Arm Style: Full roller
Shaft Diameter (in): 0.875 in.
Shims Included: No
Self-Aligning: No
Rocker Arm Body Style: Standard
Rocker Arm Material: Stainless steel
Rocker Arm Finish: Natural
Quantity: Sold as a kit.
Notes: These rockers are designed for use with
2003 - 2016 5.7L HEMI Engine
2006 - 2010 6.1L HEMI Engine
2011 - 2016 6.4L HEMI Engine.

Seems overkill for my application , but if it goes 125K troublefree miles then maybe I could talk myself into it .

I guess if I was running a bigger cam than I am (comp 260 equivalent) with higher lift and more spring presssure than I am, I could almost talk myself into it . ( I would be set for a larger cam down the line :D)

I don't know , looking for your guys input
Red, Ric, Stu , Chris , Jay Anybody
What are your thoughts ?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Redtruck-VA

·
Greg
Joined
·
20,040 Posts
I'm running stock rocker assembly on my current engine without issues on a cam with .610" lift. The springs are marginal @17lbs boost. I have spun it to 7000 on many occassions. I went with the Stanke assemby because of the .670" cam lift and higher spring pressures for boost. I looked at it as a chance to make the valve train more inline with the cam and boost. Trying to play safe. I wouldn't bother unless you are going to a high lift cam and stronger springs. A lot of folks are using the oem assembly without issues..
 
  • Like
Reactions: oldmanram

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,950 Posts
I have used them a few times I have a set in a 392 with a Howards .600 lift cam, he's got about 25k miles on it now. , had set on my 428 in the old 2014 truck with the Comp cams 274 XFI camshaft, I put 12k on that before I pulled the 428 and sold it....it now resides in a 72 Road Runner Clone...may another 7-8k mile on it.
One of the guys who works under me has a 05 Magnum which is his daily driver,392in 5.7 build, he has had a set of the PRW PQX(same thing as Procomp) roller tip rockers on this thing since mid-2013 the 1st set broke a roller tip after about 1k , PRW was quick to replace the set , and the 2nd set has gone 40k .ran a Comp Cams 273 for about 35k of the 40 now has a Green racing cam , 59X/58X lift , He also has another 05 maggy with a 2014 Charger clip that he runs in the Hemi Shoot out stuff, 389CI Darton 6.1(4.155X3.59) constantly in the 8k range ,stock DLC coated shafts , Manton collars and hold downs , with a set of the PRW rockers.

Now ...are they over kill, no.....but as long as your old rockers don't have burnt tips...go with what you have.,,,one thing though , have the ends(side that runs against the stand or collar ) checked make sure they are flat some of them have for a lack of better wording have jagged edges.
Stock shafts are plenty good for lifts up to high 500s and 7k RPMs
Collars and hold downs are a good thing if you have the spare cash....If I had to choose I would get collars over the hold downs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,950 Posts
On the intake side I am just going to clean up the casting flash and do some bowl blending , In progress photo below
FWIW these looked good.


So when do we get some New Head shots :coolsmiley:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #91 ·
So when do we get some New Head shots

OK OK !! I think it stopped raining , I'm recovering from the Washington State vs UCLA football game last night , talk about an exciting game WOW ! back to business at hand. I'll get some photos posted ,

Thanks for the comment on the OLD headporting , I just ran out of steam after doing the one , and the quickest way to get heads was to just buy them. Maybe this winter I'll finish the other one , maybe go a little wilder ........
 
  • Like
Reactions: Redtruck-VA

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #92 ·
from ric:
one thing though , have the ends(side that runs against the stand or collar ) checked make sure they are flat some of them have for a lack of better wording have jagged edges. :thumb:

OK , I think I know the area your talking about , the side of the rocker , end of round area , that is against the stand on one side, on the other side it would have a circlip or collars . right ?


Feel stupid asking BUT :

IF i just clean and inspect them , how do I do it ?:confused:
besides just dropping them in an old parts washer ........and calling it good .
I do have access to a pressurized heated fully enclosed parts washer (used by my transmission guy)
And would you dissassemble them ?
And if I dissassemble do the shafts and rockers have to be installed back in the exact same locations as before dissasembly ? ( like reusing lifters :facepalm:, same bore/ because of wear patterns)

Thank You for the comments guys , weighing the options :eek:

working on photos :hide:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #93 · (Edited)
So here are the Inertia Heads
Nice Finish
Combustion chamber wire wheeled

I had them milled .025" (left a little in case a cleanup is needed down the line)
That's why the bridge is out there
Checking quench area's , They look good , relatively consistent ,
.023 -.027 quench
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #94 ·
They did run a die grinder ?(I think) around the sharp edges , nice touch
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #95 ·
This is the exhaust porting , looks good ,
I haven't measured the actual opening sizes
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #96 ·
and here are the heads in the PAINT BOOTH ( OK paint box ):hide:

Using Duplicolor Aluminum color
from what I read it is about the glossiest engine paint out there

Last photo Color and Finish , Looks Good Nuff to ME !!

As usual OVERKILL is the name of the game so I'm thinking about 4 or 5 coats ??
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Well I need to get the rockers and shafts clean , just so I can inspect them properly. Look for wear etc. to see if I can even re-use them.

Planning on just soaking them overnight to start with

I've heard of using everything from gasoline to oven cleaner, alcohol , MEK, purple power .

What do you guys use for soaking parts , They have that dark brown burnt oil film all over them .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,950 Posts
I use a solvent called VT3 , it's a varnish thinner... but not available the the public, it's combo of Acetone(35%)Toluene(60%) and Isopropyl Alcohol(5%) , Homedepot Acetone works also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
321 Posts
Discussion Starter · #100 ·
I use a solvent called VT3 , it's a varnish thinner... but not available the the public, it's combo of Acetone(35%)Toluene(60%) and Isopropyl Alcohol(5%) , Homedepot Acetone works also.
Acetone, Tolene and alcohol , isn't that whats in Seafoam ?
just going off the top of my head ........... too lazy to go to the garage and look on a can ....
 
81 - 100 of 149 Posts
Top