Welcome to the forum, there's no replacement for displacement. There's a reason you hear that. With that said, a boosted motor will certainly run with a big motor. As for having an idle that lopes there is a lot of support mods needed to make the vehicle have any street manners. Boosted cams generally don't have a lot of overlap. What trans do you currently have? Sounds like a very expensive fun project. Good luck..

 

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The choices you've mentioned would probably all be good. Based on what you want in torque and dependability I personally would go with an all forged-built top of the line naturally aspirated 440 stump puller...these ARE available in the newer style generation Hemi as opposed to the old elephant block 426 style.
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Thanks Redtruck-VA, it's definitely going to be a fun project, I just need to see what works with this vehicle as it is going to be a "one off" and there isn't a lot of support for these SUV's. As far as transmission I believe I have the 545RFE tranny. So HEMIFun05? Thanks for your reply also. Are you saying that I can bolt up a 440 into my engine bay with little effort? I'd love to start with a 440 then maybe build off of that instead of my 345ci? But I am not wanting to have to change a bunch of wiring harnesses or a bunch of custom mounts or anything, if it'll bolt up and use the existing wiring harnesses and I don't have to change a bunch that'll be swell. Another thing is I am unsure which year of hemi to get as my was manufactured between the 03'- 09 era I believe so I dont' know which ones will bolt up? Still pretty new to the hemi and 3rd GEN at that. Any information would be great. I know I've looked at all the newer setups for the 426 and 440 but it looks like the intake and throttle body are up front by the radiator and I know the trucks and jeep setups during my production time are in the back with the air filter and all to the passenger side. If none of the newer or larger 440 hemi's won't work I'll just stick to rebuilding my 5.7 as awesome as I can get it

 

I would think that GenIII pre vvt 426 & 440 start life as a 6.1 block. Besides the aluminum blocks. It ma be cheaper to get a stroker vs a Mopar 426/440. A phone call to Inertia or Arrington would definitely be worth while.

 

Is the Aspen built on the GC chassis? If so than a Grand Cherokee forum would have a lot of information. If you don't want to do extensive wiring change then IMO be better off building what you have and not going with newer engine with a 58 tooth tone ring or mds. A forged 370 or 392 can take a ton of Boost and or nitrous. More than enough to kill a 545 trans..

 

The aspen is the Durango chassis not far off the truck Frame! The 440 is a 6.1 strokes the the max for boost I would stay 426 or smaller in the 9.5:1 range for compression for longevity and safety buffer. The nag1 swap is going to be some serious $$$$ for sure. Have fun and post pics as you go. Any info you need we will have.

 

Just thinking out loud... nag1 conversion $13k. Stroker motor $10k. SC or Turbo $8-10k. Supporting bits and pieces $5-10k... Hell, you could build a nice truck for that.... ;}

 

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Awesome information fellas! Thanks a bunch. RedTruck-VA I could definitely build a nice truck for that kind of info. But for me it's about standing out and being different for sure. I don't like having what everyone else has! I like custom for sure and "one off" builds so that makes this more exciting for me! You rarely see these driving around let alone supped up and looking the way mine does! You're are also saying that with a built 545 that what I plan on building for the powerplant will still kill a built 545?
I think what I honestly want to do it just rebuild what I have, put the stroker kit all forged and maybe the 268 comp cam for now. The Forced induction will be down the line a ways, maybe a year or so. So I'll want to build this as strong and powerful as possible N/A with intentions of the F/I depending on which route I go. I am still stuck on the heads for this. I am unsure if I should go with CNC 6.1 heads and exhaust? or just rebuild the 5.7 heads to save some dough? And have no clue what headers will fit underneather this. I honestly want the power and sound from longtube headers. However I am unsure if I can get something like that to fit unless one of you know something I don't. Any opinions is very appreciative.

 

Lol a little high on the prices but that's a good area for an estimate with snags in mind. The 545 is currently holding my supercharged 392 engine on 13psi fairly well stage 3 Sharadon. Keep in mind you have to change your entire driving habit when you add power to the ebgine with a 545 behind it.

 

I'm in agreement with you, build what you have. It saves a lot of headaches trying to match bits and pieces. It being a Durango chassis look to see what long tubes they are using. And I would recommend concentrate first on getting the exhaust the way you want to support your future mods. I'm guessing the rear end is 9.25 axle. Figure out the gear ratio and depending on tire size what gear would work best. Then torque converter and cam. The better you know your vehicle the better the choices you will make. Good luck..

 

I definitely have a good builder for my trans and for $1k I think I'll try him out first to see what happens. It has 208k miles on it as well so we shall see. And I don't really go to rough on my vehicles. I'm sure with that kind of power I will drive it a little rougher. After all the power will be at my demand. What's your 392 dish out at the wheels N/A Charged392? I've heard that I can get about 550 on this stroker build, but again depends on what I'm going to do with my heads and the tuning.

 

If you go nag1 your gonna be dropping ALOT of coin. Better of just sticking a couple 545s in there lol

 

Since I am going with a stroker build here. As far as cams go do I get the cam I want for a 5.7 or officially for the 6.1 from here on out? There is a badass cam I want but it's only for the 5.7 from Inertia! It's the STR MAX RUMBLER. I don't have enough knowledge of what parts should be swapped when doing this build and what size I need to buy for after going to the 392 stroker. I'd love that cam but it's not for 6.1ltr. Also how this will work with tuning and forced induction down the road.

 

Do some research on what makes a cam lope and you will find that it may not be what you want. But first you need to figure out do you want to have a fast nimble street vehicle with reasonably good fuel mileage and decent street manners or a race vehicle that may not be as much fun to drive. It gets very tempting and often confusing where the line is drawn. You can have both, but you are compromising many things the more race focus the vehicle becomes. A cam with a lot of lope has poor low end torque and isn't much fun to drive as it needs to be spun up to get the vehicle moving usually with a deep gear and a high stall converter. Consider at what rpm range you do most of your driving and I think you will find it is mostly well below 3500 rpm and cruising around 2000 rpm. If your cam doesn't come on until say the higher rpms you will need a gear and a converter to allow the engine to roll up high enough to make some power to get the vehicle moving and maintain a cruise speed. With that said there are more than a few trucks on the forum that do have high stall converter and deep gears to support fairly large cams. But it is a growing process with a lot of testing of the vehicle and of your tolerance to compromise. I have had my truck since new and the truck it is today would have been a poor choice for what I used it for when I bought it. Do your research and figure out what you want. If you truly want a badass truck then save up for your support vehicle and decide whether you want a open or enclosed trailer to haul it with. OBTW, the whole process is great fun.... just be prepared it isn't done on the cheap.. lol

 

I am yet to go on a dyno so I have no idea the power level I make. What I can tell you is NA my 1/4 is 2s slower lol

 

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Look up Jay Greene or Greene Racing on Facebook. Tell him your plans and what stroker assembly you plan to use and he will spec a custom cam for your application.

 

If your gonna do a build like your talking about. A custom grind cam is the way to go

 

What all is involved with a custom grind cam? What will my machine shop guy needs to know and If I use a stroker kit and possible 6.1 CNC heads and the fact I will be adding Force Induction later.

 

6.1 heads on a 5.7 raise compression so they will deff need to know that for Pistons especially if your planning boost. I run a cam that is a tad bigger than a comp 273 lift wise but my duration is diff for the boost I have a 392 with a YSI-v7 at 13 psi summer weather and run a 36-3800 edge converter. My truck has pulled a 1.61 60' and I'm sure will do better this winter. I run 4:10 gears due to the fact I go through the traps at 6500 in third gear. I daily drive my truck and even drive to rally out of state 18hrs some times issue free perfect street manners. If you build it correctly it will run and drive perfectly fine without issue. Keep in mind a tune will be needed and dialing it in is the key. I tune so if you go crazy keep me in mind. Jay also tunes and may want to tune the cam if you buy it from him. Custom cam is like any cam same stuff needed just diff specs used

 

I didnt think the 6.1 heads raised the compression. I thought only the 5.7 eagle heads raised the compression. I have my heads milled .003 to raise the compression.

 

6.1 on 5.7 raise compression 5.7 on 6.1 lower compression eagle on either 5.7-6.1 believe raise compression also.

 

Just to add a little here. If you know the size of the chamber you can compare it to one another. The larger the chamber the lower the compression.

 

trust me ----bring extra cash=== have 6.1 based stroker===broke my 545 twice--- dont have Charged 392 s 410 gears...went through traps of 1000 ft track at 108 ,but didn t have his dissaplin ---he shifts manually--- i let mine go into 4 th --death for even a built 545-- now have a manual valve body 4L80 GM tranny... fun for the 2 hours i got to drive it in April---should pick it up soon ---needed a full fuel system update to handle the tq. an the 100 shot

 

That sounds like a great conversion. Well done...

 

I have the eagle heads on mine, which are 65cc, and with the pistons I chose it gave me 11.5:1. I can only buy 91 octane at the pumps up here so I have to run a 3 point additive all the time.