Don't plan to. But can if I need to will see

 

Are you going to run into problems with running a big supercharger and 10.5:1+ CR? What does your engine builder say about that?

 

I'm the builder now and I say it's good to go I have meth lol. I am going for 16psi area I hope and 11s all day who said you can't run 20psi with 10.6:1 range hehehehe I'm a pioneer follow me

 

How about pulling a diesel trick and plumb the exhaust with a pyrometer. This way you have an idea of what temperatures you have.

 

Yeah that would be good info to have but normally not a real issue on a boosted gas engine as much as a nitrous engine with high comp.

 

Haven't you lifted the heads once already with higher boost?

Would recommend some of these.

 

Since you are all forged, if you knew what the pistons can stand. Then you could max tune it on the safe side. Might be really interesting to see what they can safely stand. Just saying...

 

Stu, can you change heads using studs with the engine in the truck?

 

Yes but a lot hotter air than what I will be running shortly due to maxing blower out.

Stu I have had studs since the first pop 3 years ago and still blew them out studs won't stop detonation damage I don't care how tight you have them clamped down.

 

Oh it will be interesting to see what it does with just the upgrade and no tune changes.

Yes you can change the heads but you have to remove the long studs first shorts can stay in to get head off

 

Does it make sense to stud a stock piston motor on low boost?

 

Studs are a very good idea for any modded engine on low boost I would say not needed but for down the road or gasket issues why not while it's off add them in

 

The studs only replace the long bolts, right? What's the thread size for the studs? 12m x 1.25? Looking at what install tool is needed.

 

The studs ARP makes have a small Allen key in the top of them and only lightly hand tighten them into the engine. It changes both long and short bolts with studs.

 

Since I'm changing heads, seems to be a no brainier. What do you torque the long studs to? 110 ft/lbs?

 

Believe so 95-110 don't remember it's all in an arp kit

 

Thanks, enjoy your evening....

 

Yeah, what Keith said.

You need forged pistons with the correct ring gaps. You don't need to tear up you new ported heads with pieces of the oem pistons........

 

I was on the verge of building a motor when this opportunity presented itself. So I'll go this way and not push the envelope. Even turned down this should get me some respectable numbers for being a street truck...

 

Yes it will for sure. 6-8 psi is all I would do issue free

 

That's the plan, will adjust my shift points down some. Should be interesting.....

 

You'll need water/meth and a good intercooler. To stop the oem ring gaps from going to no ring gap.........

 

You'll need water/meth and a good intercooler.......

I've gathered some bits & pieces. Will trigger the wtr/meth with a pressure switch I had left over from the previous install kit where I used a vacuum switch instead.

 

Ok new blower is on the way old blower will be coming off this week Wednesday I hope and be set in a box ready to go north!!! Metal will also be here Wednesday and have the bracket made up for the kit also. Gotta send a lot north but it will be worth it once done for the both of us.

 

new blower is on the way

:SWEET1:opcorn:opcorn:opcorn:

 

Sweet! can't wait to this thing run.....

 

I am interested to see what I gain lol like a kid in a candy store right now.

 

I know exactly how you feel. Along with SC I've installed the API BV ported heads. So Red is getting a double upgrade.... :brows:

 

:thumb::dance:

 

Truck sold finally so now good with the wife again about spending money lol. I can't hardly wait needs to get here quick. Gregg don't worry not putting you on back burner just myself with my own truck until all stuff is made up and ready.