mine was a different Sharadon.... It was a Stage 2.5 Trans with a Stage 4 VB lol..
Had no problem Building it in my Garage.

 

Going with a stage 3 in 2 weeks have house taxes to pay first called hem today 3400 or so shipped then get core back and I have to order another edge converter and she's good to go

No downshifts for me at all one wide open from a dig or cruise normal I'm not waisting my money any more caltracs soon to follow and then slicks still need one steel wheel for another slick after that look out

I have been told with my 60' and mph in 1/4 I have a high 11's truck so let's see boy this is going to be a fun year

 

I got the steelie for the next time I see you. Hell I'll even throw in the rotted tire too lol. I can't wait to see that thing on a pass!

 

Thanks rim will deff help

Trans is two plus weeks away for me I'm going to try and get caltracs at the same time but don't know if money will be there or not saving my ass off right now I'm down but not out

 

Originally posted by charged392:
Going with a stage 3 in 2 weeks

 

I'll need to call Denny too. I think the stage III trans needs new clutches. It seems to be slipping lately.

Needless to say, the truck will not be participating in the near future GTGs.

Noticed little bits of rubber from Al's slicks only on one side of the truck. It seems that the Truetrac isn't letting both tires spin up for heating up Al's slicks. That would explain the sixty foot time. Also one of the rear Kumho tires is worn more than the other. The worn tire is from the same side where the little rubber bits have been thrown up on the truck.

 

Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:

Noticed little bits of rubber from Al's slicks only on one side of the truck.

Great

...That means 2 peg legged trucks were usin my slicks

Hey Stu, maybe you just didn't have enough power to spin BOTH rear wheels at the same time...

 

Maybe they're peg legged on opposite sides

 

Well once the trans is in maybe a non peg legged truck can use tires one time to see what I have gained

Also I bet the locker works you just need a line lock so the wheels can actually turn free with slick grabbing and brake restricting bet you didn't have power to turn to good

 

We made sure to swap the wheels to the other sides when we put them from stus truck to mine

 

Originally posted by VA4MEDS:
you just didn't have enough power to spin BOTH rear wheels at the same time...

I had to push down hard on the brakes. The slicks kept pushing the truck forward.

I can see why a line lock for the rear brakes is a good idea.

 

Line lock is actually for the front brakes you press brake then you press button and hold it release pedal and front brakes hold rears release so you can spin to your hearts desire on another. It's don't try to use it for launches doesn't work tires will turn or truck will roll power brake on the line to your limit to help with launches

 

Originally posted by charged392:
Line lock is actually for the front brakes

Shoot, Keith. I wanted to correct Stu....

And actually the Hemi will start to pull timing if you brake rev it too high. I only brake rev just enough to keep the driveline tight, usually 800-1000 rpm.

Maybe it is different on a turbo/SC truck IDK.

 

No my truck will do it to I think it's a trans protection type thing by reducing the ho and torque the motor is making while not
Moving I have done it once and launched and it was like the brakes were on the timing just held back

 

http://www.jegs.com/p/Ridetech...cks/1631811/10002/-1

I may not do caltracs this with coil overs instead of airbags would be nice

 

Originally posted by charged392:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Ridetech...cks/1631811/10002/-1

I may not do caltracs this with coil overs instead of airbags would be nice

Thats a neat system, but $2600 is not a cheap mod. The problem I see with it is you are still limited to pretty much a 5 inch drop until the frame is notched. not that is a bad thing, just pointing out the axle travel distance is limited by the frame. My guess is it would be lighter than the OEM leaf springs but not by much. Good luck.

 

Redtruck-VA,

Keith is wanting to do away with his leaf spring setup so he can get his power to the ground

 

Frame is notched 3" from lowering kit but your right the price is the kicker

 

Well if you do convert to that you should lmk about your flip kit

 

Originally posted by VA4MEDS:
Shoot, Keith. I wanted to correct Stu....

Ok, what do you call it then when you isolate the rear brakes so you can heat up the slicks? Rear brakes line lock?

 

Originally posted by VA4MEDS:
maybe you just didn't have enough power to spin BOTH rear wheels at the same time...

It would spin the one slick fine once it came up on boost.

Without boost.

 

Nice kit.

But, that Ridetech kit say better cornering, not traction for drag racing. I would research this one a little more Keith.

 

Originally posted by Ghost03hemi:
Ok, what do you call it then when you isolate the rear brakes so you can heat up the slicks? Rear brakes line lock?

The line loc is never used on the drive axle be it FWD or RWD.

If you used Rear brakes line loc on your truck Stu it would be called NO GO...

 

Originally posted by VA4MEDS:
If you used Rear brakes line loc on your truck Stu it would be called NO GO...

So, what would it be called if you isolate your rear brakes so you could heat up the slicks? Without having the rear brakes interfering with the spinning up of the slicks.

 

That would be Line Lock On for $500 Alex...