Nice set up Keith. :thumb:
Stu...how tall are those Slicks? More than 28 inches? :blink:

 

:brows:

 

:thumb::thumb:

 

Nice.

 

Well fuel pump was working fine until this morning lost pressure at second stop light and sat there for 45 mins waiting to get towed to shop oh well will be looking later to see what went wrong it either blew a line or unplugged either way it sucked being stuck

 

:facepalm:

 

All fixed up clamp I used broke anyway went with old top and changed the bottoms out on the hat assemblies and fixed my seal setup all is good not going to have any issues with it now and tested it out on E I can smash it and psi holds solid very good for track now :thumb:

 

Sweet

 

:thumb::thumb:

 

Factory crossmember being cut out with roll pan installed had to remove this anyway leaving rear weakened

 

Crossmember welded back in flipped over bed fits fine with it on and now I have a tow point below roll pan just Incase using the factory ball holes

Also the shocks are being relocated to new tabs on spare tire support and trimming some extra metal off rear pics coming as completed

 

After I removed the OEM cross member for the roll pan I used a hidden hitch which is considerably lighter to stiffen the rear frame frails. I left the OEM bracing intact and only removed the spare tire frame work, Mine seems to still be plenty stiff. Relocating the shock mounts is a good mode IMO. Well done.

 

Shocks repositioned susp feels alot stiffer in the rear now I like it better this way now to get bar mounts redone

 

Keith, are those air shocks on the back?

 

These should look familiar to anyone with a mcgauphys flip kit cut my stock shock extensions up and made new mounts

 

Underneath shot looks like it was made this way :thumb:

 

What kinda shocks are you running?

 

There extra load shocks from 4 years ago when I use to tow the wheeler around to go mudding will be switching them for some drag shocks soon

 

NICE. :thumb:

 

Sorry. I was on page 96 when I asked that. Didn't see page 97 with the question already asked.:facepalm:

 

No problem kcd1369 my truck Is an ongoing research project the bars i made on a whim because caltracs were too much for me at the time turned out to be the best thing ever now with the shocks moved the intake change and the bars redone I need to get to the track soon for some testing but need bed back on first

Also vids coming soon showing axle wrap with and without bars I can say without a 3" climb in my diff is evident from the video I have once bars back on will make another vid and put both up for all to see

 

Who makes Drag Shocks for our trucks???

 

Drag shocks are not really vehicle specific as much as measurement specific need to know

Max length
Compressed length
Bolt size
And mount width

Then you call and shop the various company's eddy will be helping me with this when I get around to it will be running 70/30 front 50/50 rear to try and turn some lift into forward momentum less lift means less weight transfer but faster et's I think I will be able to play with it a little and still have traction

 

Here's the video of the bars off and the bars back on with no tension just set to the gap huge diff even without preload

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V6eJE5ONAvs

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dDFlb02yx0k

 

I'm hoping it's just the vid but, looks like your pinion angle is off a little Keith.:ermm:

 

Nope trans points downward pinion points upward perfect angles under load about 3-4degrees diff good enough for me don't have any vib issues sticking with this setup

 

pinion points upward perfect angles under load about 3-4degrees diff

It would spin the axle easier under load and suspension squat at 0 degree. Not to mention, how much harder it's on the u joints at 3-4 degree's on a heavy load. Just trying to help you get your truck into the 11s Keith. Every little bit helps.:thumb: