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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well after much deliberation I decided to get a new/reman engine for my sons 05 ram 1500 4x4. Surprisingly I got it in a week. I powdercoated the valve covers and she looks pretty. I had huge problems when I was pulling the old engine out with the bracket that ties the motor mount, front differential and tranny together. I actually broke the ear off the top of the diff and had to get another differential.

I have the motor in now but this bracket is kicking my a$$. Are there any tricks to this thing that maybe I'm missing? I'm about 1/2" from it being where it needs to be. Honestly I'm still trying to figure out why this bracket is even needed since the motor is bolted to a mount, the diff is bolted to the motor mount on the other side and the tranny is obviously bolted to the back of the motor. Seems like over kill tying the 3 together. Friggin engineers...lol
 

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It’s been awhile since I actually saw the bracket but yes it’s likely over kill
 

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That’s a brace for the diff front mount section. If the diff is mounted good enough you should be ok without it but don’t quote me on this without seeing it in person I don’t know
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I got everything mounted good except the 2 bolts to the front of the tranny. So, 2 the 4 bolts to the block, the 2 bolts through the engine mount and 3 on the diff. Plus the diff has 2 bolts on the other motor mount. Since the tranny is bolted to the damn motor and the motor is now bolted to the mount which is bolted to the frame....f$%& those other 2 bolts...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So late last night we finally turned the key on it. I made sure I built up pressure in the fuel rail and bled out a little bit first to make sure there wasn't any air. Cranked for a second and it started. It ran for about 2 seconds and shut off. When we try to start it again, as soon as i turn the key it sounds like I have an electrical short somewhere. My son got a couple of batteries mixed up. 1 was dead and the other was good a month ago. Like a dummy I never put it on trickle charge. So I charged both all night. I have the one i THINK is good in it now. Ive had my volt meter out for about 2 hrs now checking fuses and continuity for grounds. I think i figured out which battery is good but when I turn the key on and start it just clicks and I get the little red dot blinking next to the fuel guage. Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe that's the security thing. How do I reset that if it IS that?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update: so I got it to start but it won't stay running unless I feather the gas. The break in procedure for the new motor says to hold it at 2k RPMs for 20 minutes but I had to stop at about 10 minutes because it was getting too hot. Like the thermostat hadn't opened yet. But I know there isn't enough coolant in the block yet. I tried putting some in before I put the hoses on and thermostat but I couldn't get much in. Not sure why it won't stay running though. Guessing a TB relearn issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
After letting it cool I was able to add more coolant and were good to go there. It still won't idle but I got an O2 sensor code and a cam sensor code. I was a little nervous to hear my local dealership parts guy didn't know what "bank 1, sensor 2" means...lol...i found a different dealership!! Hopefully that'll fix it. Im assuming it was running lean or rich and the computer couldn't figure it out. Ill let you know shortly
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well I dont get it. Put the O2 sensor in that made the code go away. I pulled out the oem cam sensor that I just put in and put the old oem sensor in and im still getting a cam sensor code and it qont idle. I have no idea what to do. Any ideas?
 

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Greg
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Check wiring, especially at the plug for both cam and crank sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yea im gonna look at what wires I can and check out the pins in the plugs but if its in the wiring, unless I see it by the plug or something its going somewhere else. I dont do wiring. Worse part is the friggin EGR. Its RIGHT in the way for trying to pull the plug on the cam sensor
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I can't find any issues with any wiring that I can see or plugs but I dont really feel comfortable cutting into the actual wiring harness so maybe its time to haul it to a shop. I dont know
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I really dont know but I was wondering that last night honestly. Im on my way to the dealership now to get a crank sensor i ordered last week. I dont know if that will fix it but I know in past years I've had a cam sensor code for a bad crank sensor and vise versa. Plus i dont remember changing the crank sensor so at least ill know its new and OEM. Just to eliminate that as an issue
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Stupid ? But they did use the correct tone wheel for the cam I hope.
I think i read somewhere yesterday that 2005 was a split year or somethijg where they changed the tooth count on the reluctor ring. You know anything about that?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
New crank sensor didnt change anything either but at least I know its new now. Yee haw
 
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