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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok here goes nothing this is a fuel setup i did on my truck for roughly $200-300 less than what it would have costed me to do if I was using billet rails which in my personal opinion are a waist of time them are really just for looks most aftermarket rails are 5/8 diameter measure the factory ones guess what there the same on our trucks only real diff is the opening going into the injector but it doesnt matter anyway beacause the hole in the bung is the same size as the back of the injector where fuel enters so opted to go with a little modification of my own and it works great this setup i am going to show you is on a S/C 392 hemi with a stage 3 sharadon trans 3500 edge convetor and 456 gears needless to say it badass and needs alot of gas well this is what i did to solve the issue
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
parts you will need for this build it is completly custom from pump forward and back to tank

1 walbro 400lph fuel pump (high hp app)255lph most others
1 efi fuel pressure regulator
25" of -6 an fuel line
12" piece of 3/8 tube
Another set of factory fuel rails(junkyard will work)
1 piece of 5/16 factory plastic push lock hose(autoparts store)
1 efi 10 micron inline fuel filter 9" long jegs
9 -6 hose ends
1 -6 end-3/8 tube compression fitting
1 -6 regulator plug
2 -6 radiused regulator fittings
2 -6 90* hose ends
2 -6 tees with swivel on side
2 3/8 quick connect to -6 male fittings
2 -6 90* bulk head fittings with nut/grommet
2 -8 female-6male reducers

tools need

elctrical tape for wrapping line to be cut
90* grinder thin cutting wheel
drill with large stepper bit
hammer and a cold chisel
11/16 wrench
3/4 wrench
9/16 wrench
22mm wrench
3/4 socket
3/8 wratchet
10mm wrench and socket for factory rails bolts
15mm wrench and deep socket for tank starps
boiling water
3/8 dissconnect tool
razor blade
dremmel with sander
jb quick
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
to start it off remove air intake tube exposing spark plug wire assembly 2004-late2005. 2006 up has coils remove plug wire assembly and set asside now unhook throttle connector all injector plugs and unclip factory harness from intake and move aside should look like this about now
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
next remove the bolts holding the rail in place 4 of them dissconnect the 3/8 factory fuel line and carefully pull up rail by lifting at ends and wiggling at same time can be stubborn and not want to come out but it will show it whos boss once out you will notice the there is a quick connect on one side and a threaded end on the other we need to change that take the razor blade and carefully cut the grey tube off the factory rail on both side leaving you with two rails unconnected. now do the same to the second set of rails and set asside both rails with the threaded nipple on them they are not needed anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
next take the two rails you still have with the 3/8 quickconnect stlye ends to your pot of boiling water with the 5/16 fuel section set one end it hot water for about 30 secs and then quickly push it onto the barbed nipple in the center of one rail and then to the same to the other rail making sure the have both rails parallel to one another and when done should look like this
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
now comes the fun stuff get the rear of the truck in the air i used drive up ramps and backed up them giving me just enough room on my lowered truck to slide tank out rear end without issues

once up dissconnect filler and vent line loosen the 15mm nuts holding tank straps tight (hopefully tank is mostly empty) and lower tank 1/2 way disconnect fuel pump/sender connector evap main line and fuel feed line lower tank to the ground and slide out from under truck you get this

use the hammer and chissel (tools available at time) and hit the ring counterclockwise to remove pump
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
with pump and sender assembly out dissconnect the pump plug and cut the connector of flush cut fuel lines and remove the pump from basket. snap two lock tabs off inside of top cover and twist off the factory regulator/filter assembly and throw it all away now you should have a module the has a 3/8 nipple sticking down to an empty fuel basket in order for the 400lph pump to fit you will have to snap off 2 of the 3 pump reatainers shown with screw driver
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
now flip it back over and useing a razor blade firmly press down on the fuel feed nipple while slowly cutting at plastic it will eventually just snap off you wont actually cut thru the plastic with the blade its just to cause a stress point it should be flush now
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
next take your dremmell tool and smooth out the ribs right in front of the nipple you just cut off this is where your new feed line fitting will go

use some jb quick and cover the factory hole in wont be needing that one anymore
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
now take the stepper bit and drill up to just ender the 5/8 mark and then test fit one off the 90* bulkhead fittings keep the hole as snug as possible around the fitting will end up something like this
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
this is the view from the bottom this is where one of the hose ends and a 9" piece of line will screw onto for the pump feed assembly center nipple is the one getting blocked from the outside ignore it
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
now take new pump stuff it into the base thru the old pump holder and connect your fuel line and connections (red is positive) and tie strap the pump to the side away from the sender swing arm
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
next on top off the tank there is the rollover valve and vent connections drill another hole there for the other 90 bulkhead fitting making sure to keep it as snug as possible to the fitting and once done tighnten it down and install the -6 3/8 compression with tube inside the tank tube will be about an inch off the bottom of tank and no longer in the basket that is why we drilled holes in base for added flow into basket
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
next reinstall sender/pump assembly and secore with safety ring mark where feed line points on the lock ring and then remove it and grind down the raised edge in the two spots shown for clearance of new line and end assembly then reinstall and lock ring
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
now take the bulk hose and put and end on each end of the fuel line dont cut anythning yet makes no sense right but will save a big hassle i had to go thruonce done screw the hose ends to the tank and run it up and over the frame pulling excess hose out the side near vent -filler exit and install the tank
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
next get your fuel filter out and mount or secure it to the frame under drivers side and take the feed side of your looped together hose measure to the filter, mark and now cut the line install and end and hand tighten to filter adapter and filter(its a pain to tighten the fittings with tank up which is why said do it this way)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
now leave the hose on the floor for now and mount your regulator to the right of the booster on the ever so convenient tab sticking out there installe your fittings into it and then run the long side of the an line on the ground up the frame along the body measure and then cut excess off install end and secure the return line to the regulator you should now have about 15' left over. set asside
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
take the quick connects and install them onto the rails add a tee to each one at this point next take the 2 90* ends and and handtighten to passenger side tee both facing driver side install a hose end on the drivers side and measure and mock up the line like so
 

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