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Discussion Starter #1
Well as some of you know I am a new member here and was looking for a place to place to start my build thread! So the Va section of the forum it is! So for a little fill in I have an 06 ram 1500 slt. Hemi power of course! It is a standard cab short bed. or shorty as I like to call them. I traded in my old 98 ram for this on due to it being just to flat out worn out! But the 5.2 still ran good!! So the plan for this build is both cosmetic and performance. I want a great street truck that can play at the track too! Here is a couple of current pics!



First mod was to add factory fog lights!



Next was to delete the rear bumper and tint the tail lights!!




Future plans are a Mopar A body hood scoop, a simple but striking paint job, lowering,A 518 trans,and a "few" engine mods!!!( FEW? right!!!LOL):coolsmiley: and ether a locker or limited slip diff,and lastly a set of cal tracs!
 

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Sounds like a plan. :thumb::thumb:
 

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Good ideas and nice truck.

Caltracs are good but my longbars are better and half the price! Look at my pics for launch dead hooking photo lol.
 

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Greg
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Truck is off to a good start. Will be fun to watch the progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks for the support guys! I really want to work this truck due to the fact there has to be at least 50 silver 3rd gen trucks in my area!!!LOL Oh and charged392 you need to post if you are still making them and just how much you charge for them!!!LOL
 

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$250 shipped to your door!

Benefits wheel hop gone, not rough ride like caltracs sometimes can be, fun.

Downside you loose 1.5" of ground clearance (I have never hit a speed bump and I'm lowered 4"), you have to drill 4 holes they from section of frame to bolt bracket on or weld it your choice.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
$250 shipped to your door!

Benefits wheel hop gone, not rough ride like caltracs sometimes can be, fun.

Downside you loose 1.5" of ground clearance (I have never hit a speed bump and I'm lowered 4"), you have to drill 4 holes they from section of frame to bolt bracket on or weld it your choice.
Cool!!! I will have to get with you about that!! I am looking at a hood scoop right now but when I get that done I will have to see about the long bars!!!
 

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Greg
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IMO, axle control is very important with our trucks, even more so if the O/L spring is removed as many of us have done. Your driveline will thanks you.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
IMO, axle control is very important with our trucks, even more so if the O/L spring is removed as many of us have done. Your driveline will thanks you.
Which leaf is the over load spring? This is the first i have heard of removing a spring for traction.
 

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Greg
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Which leaf is the over load spring? This is the first i have heard of removing a spring for traction.
The O/L is not removed for traction, it's generally removed when lowering. They are also heavy and IMO don't do anything on a street truck. Mine had never touched the main spring pack and all I was doing was carrying them around. My truck had a lot of spring wrap and traction bars solved that problem nicely. It is important to keep the driveline under control or you will be breaking Ujoints loading and unloading the axle.
 

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Unless you need that extra inch of lowering I would just leave the overload spring in place. Axle control is a Deff must for performance. Just let me know when you want to talk long bar. I have most all the parts now here at house for a set. You will like them a lot
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think what I will do is remove it when I install the long bars!!!
 

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I can vouche charged392s longbars are the best. As for your list of mods I'd imagine if it includes a 518, then you got plans for some engine mods

What i really like about the longbars are they aren't so noticeable compared to calltracs
 

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Discussion Starter #15
One thing I am wondering is if I need to have the truck lowered before I install the bars?
 

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Doesn't make a diff they are adjustable simply loosen jam nuts and give it a turn if need be I run mine with 1 turn of preload but that's just me you can run them neutral with same results
 

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Greg
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Doesn't make a diff they are adjustable simply loosen jam nuts and give it a turn if need be I run mine with 1 turn of preload but that's just me you can run them neutral with same results
Maybe you can repost some pictures of one installed or direct us back to your "long bar" thread. I know I'd be interested.
Thanks,
 

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Stu
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21,131 Posts
1. Long bars are cheaper in price than Caltracs.:thumb:

2. Long bars are more simpler and don't require as much maintenance or adjustment than Caltracs.:thumb:

3. You have to pull the pins out of the Caltracs to get the street ride back after every track use.:sad:

4. You have to be careful when jacking up the truck and letting the rear suspension down. The Caltrac bars will hit the leaf spring rivets putting bending pressure on the bars.:eek::holysheep::doh:

5. If your power braking at the line without a trans brake. The Caltracs are rendered useless just by the way they're designed to work.:sad:

6. To get the Caltracs to work at their best. Takes allot of rear suspension tinkering, adjusting, lowering and weight transfer back on the rear suspension to assist the Caltracs in traction.:blink:
7. Long bars work as good as Caltracs at the track. In some situations. Better than the Caltracs.:thumb:

How do I know all this? Have Caltracs on my truck and their almost set perfectly. Could have saved me some time and money with long bars.........:blink::blink::blink::facepalm:
 

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Greg
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I'll agree to the Long Bars are a very effective and simple way to gain axle control. But on the other hand I also haven't experienced some of the difficulties mentioned. Maybe mine aren't set at an optimum point and are less of a problem being so. I would have probably gone with long bars if they had been available when I put mine together. It's a good system and I have used ladders and long bars long ago on a couple of my rides.
 
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