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? For you say the steering went out and the brakes indicating that the balancer is spinning on the crank! Even with the bolt loose the balancer should not spin on the crank on just a normal drive NA. Something is wrong there and there may not be enough press fit. This is also likely why your bolt keeps coming loose the balancer is spinning and the bolt slacks then backs out.
 

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Greg
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20,122 Posts
Keith, great catch! Chris is that a stock balancer? I ask because ATI balancers are often honed and it's easy to over hone them..
 

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Chris
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Discussion Starter · #1,723 ·
Stock car balancer. I had similar issues with the stock truck balancer. The truck balancer never spun but it did come loose. I don’t think either one had a key way which would solve that issue
 

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How easy does your balancer pull off with the puller?

If need be you can pin the crank about and have a groove cut into the balancer and make it a keyed setup. You could also pin it like a GM from the front this would keep your balancer from rotating
 

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the stroker crank should already have a key way, I didn't realize you used a stock damper on a stroker crank...that just might be why it keeps back off .
 

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Chris
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Discussion Starter · #1,728 ·
I got the valvebody back from John and so far so good. The converter isn’t slipping anymore. He said he was going to street test it in his truck, the paper he sent back only says he dyno tested it, didn’t find anything wrong, then he made changes to the lockup system and did another dyno test. Apparently it fixed the problem he couldn’t find, and it’s holding up right now. Time will tell
 

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Greg
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I wish you luck with it continuing to work...
 

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Chris
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Discussion Starter · #1,731 ·
So for some reason, The truck is completely dead in the water. Went out to do some tuning, the truck ran a touch rough and stalled out. Nothing too out of the ordinary. Normally if it stalls out it has to crank longer to get started till it smoothed out. Well after this happened 2 or 3 times, the starter just completely stopped working. No response at all when the key is turned to “start”. Fuel pump kicks in, everything else looks normal, battery is brand new, grounds look ok. I took the starter to the parts store and it tested good. I have 12v’s at the power wire at the starter, and when the key turns I get a 12v signal on the solenoid wire connector. I even hooked a jumper cable from the ground lug on the battery straight to the frame of the starter to be sure it was grounded and it will not engage at all. I’m completely lost right now, I have no idea why it’s not working. It died in the parking lot at school so I’m gonna have to tow it back to the garage and start going over it. Spent almost 3 hours messing around with it in the parking lot, even put a brand new starter on and nothing works
 

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Greg
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20,122 Posts
Chris, sounds like the neutral/ park switch not making contact. You should beable to jump the solenoid to crank the engine. If it is being hard to start try holding the gas pedalto to floor.. expect it to roar into life...
 

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Chris
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Discussion Starter · #1,733 ·
I tried jumping the solenoid and bypassing the park safety switch, nothing worked
 

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going out on a limb here ,
What did you do with the original column shift , I know you have a floor shifter now? this 04 I bought would do the same thing if I knocked the column shifter out of "P" now matter where the B&M shifter was in it's selection , the truck would not turn over.
Maybe look at what you did in that area...
 

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Mark G Senior Member
05 Ram 5.7 Turbo Charged
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If you don't find the problem in the column... Take a look at all of the connections going to the computer when you swapped it out maybe something came loose... Good luck buddy!
 

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Greg
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In stock condition the (T-41) ground sense from P/N safety switch on the trans connects to the PCM (c3-21). When the PCM senses a ground condition on pin c3-21. The PCM then produces a ground condition on c3-38 which is the actual ground needed for the starter solenoid to operate to engage the starter motor. I don't know what additional magic happens inside the pcm when the ground is initially sensed. But if you choose to connect the necessary safety ground to engage the starter solenoid directly (c7-23) IPM you will not have any issues with bypassing the pcm.
 

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Chris
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Discussion Starter · #1,737 ·
The column shifter is completely removed and safe, there shouldn’t be an issue there. The reason I don’t think it’s a park safety switch issue, the starter relay is working when I hit the key. I can physically feel it click and and read 12v output on a key turn. So somewhere between the relay and the starter it isn’t making a good connection. Since the relay is working, that seems to eliminate all the pcm side from being a problem. I’ll have to really tear into it, something is just plain wrong and not working correctly
 

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Greg
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20,122 Posts
The column shifter is completely removed and safe, there shouldn’t be an issue there. The reason I don’t think it’s a park safety switch issue, the starter relay is working when I hit the key. I can physically feel it click and and read 12v output on a key turn. So somewhere between the relay and the starter it isn’t making a good connection. Since the relay is working, that seems to eliminate all the pcm side from being a problem. I’ll have to really tear into it, something is just plain wrong and not working correctly
That pretty much makes it a bad solenoid..
 
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Administrator
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Ok get a volt meter out. Check for power at the main starter power wire. If you have power have someone turn the key and check for 12v on the S terminal at the starter. If that’s good and the starter does nothing it’s most likely a bad ground or a bad starter. But just for a long shot make sure you can rotate the motor my hand to rule that out also.
 

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Chris
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Discussion Starter · #1,740 ·
Thank you all for the suggestions. I finally found the problem and it was pretty stupid. A while back I had to lengthen the solenoid wire, but water got in it and corroded both solder joints to the point of breaking. What made it so bad was it was together just enough for the rest meter to read 12v, making me think everything was working correctly, but not good enough to pass a usable current through. So I cut everything out and fixed all the joints, put it back together and it’s running again. Spent 4 evenings trouble shooting it before I found it. So lots of time and frustration but back on the road again
 
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