I know this casting line is deep , try to smooth it out make it less ..noticeable I guess is the right word, your not going to be able to remove it, just try and make it less noticeable.
Top Photo is your's but I drew a line where I'm referring to bottom photo for some reason flipped upside down.....point is the casting line(machine line) is hard to remove.

on the intake bowls if you polish them, it's fine, to go above say 100 grit, an old SS trick was(is) to polish the bowl as high as possible while leaving the port between 60 and 120 grit (depending on RPM, and how anal the NHRA tech was if someone complained)
fuel drop out is only an issue at idle and low RPM usage for Carb engines ,the higher the RPM the less chance of fuel drop out while the column of atomized air is traveling thru the port.
Keep in mind that a Carbureted engine has about 14-18 inches of travel before the air column hits the valve, our Hemis only have what 3, maybe 4 inches.

I look at porting and polishing like this, Try and visualize water flowing thru the port , any edge that looks like it will upset the path of flow I smooth out.


The last photo, there is a lot of work before me.

 

I need to get a better polishing kit. The one I ordered from summit was just straight sanding rolls. They work great in the long straight intake ports but they wear out really quick trying to clean up the bends. I have another small dremal kit from harbor freight that works well for detailing but it wears out pretty quick too, I went through 3 of them on the last heads. But these heads are way smoother then the pre-eagle set I did before, the casting was much rougher.

 

https://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/2587dx.html
https://goodson.com/collections/porting-and-polishing

you'll find the rolls in these kits are a little better than the summit/Jegs kits I burn up

 

When using the carbide burr try using a lanolin base hand cleaner on the burr. It keeps the aluminum from loading or clogging the burr.

 

Planning on heading to test and tune tonight after work. I did the same basic prep as last time, just removing the back seat and some tools. Only thing different then the last run (15.3) is gears, drop shackles and new shocks, and dropped a few pounds of metal and rust. Just trying to get a similar setup to test the difference 4.56 gears make. I talked to Cope yesterday to give him a follow up on the valvebody and how’s it’s been working. Asked about the low gear set and I plan on getting that next year when I convert to 2wd. It will put the ratio at 2.77 and I think 1.67 or something for 2nd. $800 for all new 4 pin planetaries to change the ratio. Hopefully I can pick up even more and get it close the the 545 ratios

 

IMO as you add horsepower that low gear will lose some of it's attraction. If you were sticking with 4x4 and crawling off road it would have it's advantages..

 

That's $800 towards the other stuff.

 

Like maybe nitrous :coolsmiley: I think $800 gets me a complete kit...

 

In my opinion I think it will help. Remember I’m still pushing 5300+ lbs around and I can still tell the first 2 gears are very long. The 8 speeds trans have a 4.50 first ratio, they are in 3rd gear before they match my first gear.

 

Hard to argue against the 8spd except with add more power.

 

That certainly levels the horsepower field...

 

Well TnT was again a disappointment, and somewhat mind boggling. Like I said earlier the only change was the 2" drop, new shocks and 4.56 gears. I even aired down the tires to 20 psi which was the only thing that helped. I somehow managed to run the exact same speed and time as before, ranging from 15.2-15.5. I was not expecting a overall great time because of running on my street tires (I am 100% getting slicks for future racing!!) but I wanted a back to back comparison of the 3.92 to 4.56 change. I honestly don't understand how the truck ran identical times across the slip.

So here is my guess's at some problems and what I plan on doing about them.

Tires- going to slicks very soon

Exhaust- I really think I have a restrictive exhaust. I have the pacesetter headers, no cats, and their off road 3" y pipe going into a 3" in/ dual 2.5 out borla muffler. My problem is the exhaust shop that I had do the exit pipes didn't have a mandrel bender and the pipes are pretty crushed at the bend. It's alittle hard to tell in the picture but for a already small 2.5 pipe that bend has to be a major restriction in my mind.

So my plan for that is cutting the Y pipe off and changing it to an x pipe with dual Carven Race mufflers and either dumping it or trying to turn it out the side depending on space. Not sure if I will keep it 2.5 or 3" exit, just using better quality bends.

The stroker doesn't seem to have as much high rpm power as I think it should have and I truly think its from the small heads/intake combo. Hopefully this winter the eagle heads and intake will be on. I feel like it has pretty decent low/mid range torque but its just not pulling as hard as I want it to.

Weight- Just too much weight. Spring time, I will completely convert to 2wd. That should be good for dropping 250-300 lbs plus some drivetrain loss.

[yt]YPod1LS1aSU[/yt]

 

You will get it.. just takes time to get the combo working.

 

Don’t remove the Y and the bent pipes are not hurting a thing there was a test done on that very thing and it showed no loss of power.

 

I have loss significate low end/idle quality with the y pipe removed. Put it back on and power returned.

 

One of the reasons why I like testing on the dyno as to going to the track. At least you would know how much power you had before you got there.

 

I plan on doing at least one dyno after the heads are done. Since they are so exspensive and I don’t have any inside connections at a shop I wanted to finish it and do it once.

 

I am planning on keeping the same general idea with a different exhaust setup, just considering doing an x instead of a y at the joint. I hear lots of conflicting info about it, but the x pipe will allow me to run twin mufflers so it’s not insanely loud because the mufflers I plan on using are pretty small.

 

I don't think you'll see a performance difference going from Y to X.... you'd be better putting to dumps on the end of your headers that you can open when you go to the track.

 

I have to redo the exhaust one way or the other. I have a few leaks that need fixed around the collectors and I’m getting rid of the borla muffler for one or two Carvens. I don’t like the sound I have now. The x-pipe idea is solely for running two mufflers instead of a y pipe with one muffler
https://www.carvenexhaust.com/products/universal-performance-mufflers/r-series-muffler-47.html

 

Measure everything to see if it'll fit. Pretty easy to run out of room.

 

I would leave the y-pipe and use a long glasspack 30-plus in in length.. 3 in in diameter through the muffler.

 

My favorite setup!

 

I’m pretty sure the Carven mufflers are shorter then what I have now by 6” at least.

https://youtu.be/zJiNp81-ZJ8

 

My rear gear has been howling kinda bad since I got them going. Mostly on coast and light cruising. Might have to take it apart and check it out.

 

I would check the pinion load.

 

Unfortunately if you already have a wear pattern set in you're probably not going to be able to get rid of that noise... You only have a short period of time for break in. And all your adjustments need to be set Within the break in heat Cycles.

 

Well they are Keith’s used gears so in theory they should have already had the heat cycles done a long time ago. Only extra wear is just the difference from his housing to mine I would think