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Chris's 2003 6.4 Hemi Stroker Build

156K views 1.8K replies 28 participants last post by  HemiLonestar  
#1 ·
Well I had a thread about doing a cam swap, now that is over, time to re-start all over again and do it right! I do it nice, cause I do it twice! :rofl:

I had really wanted to do a stroker kit the first time around, but time and financial constraints weren't allowing me to. But after I found out the fresh rebuild was burning major amounts of oil in cylinder 1, I decided to just go for it. To start the process, I chose to get a used 5.7 block and build the stroker first. When its all completed with the necessary machining and installation, I'll pull my old engine out and swap over the heads and accessories. I've already added a Comp 260, new valve train, torque converter, oil pump and timing set the first time around, so I have a good base to start with. So after a bit of searching, I found a blown engine at a local junkyard for $400. They didn't have any info on why it was blown or the mileage, but I figured I would be only using the bare block and it would be over-bored to begin with so it couldn't be too bad. Any other usable parts would be experimented with or sold to help recoup the cost. After pulling the heads I found the reason it was blown, cylinder 6 had no piston head left, it was completely blown out with just the rod and wrist pin left. So I will have to have one piston re-sleeved, I don't think that is a big deal in the end. Other then that, all the other cylinders are at standard bore size and should clean up well. At this point I have the engine stripped to the bare block, tomorrow I'll start with the wire brush to remove all the old paint and rust. Then it will be sent to my local performance shop to bore it out and get it re-sleeved.
I plan on using the SCAT Modern Muscle Stroker Kit from Summit Racing. It's in my price range and comes balanced. So feel free to pitch in any suggestions or tips!
 

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#1,253 ·
The axle pre-load specs are 15-25 foot pounds of rotational torque if you need it.
 
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#1,254 ·
Thanks! But it’s inch pounds haha
 
#1,255 ·
lol oops, sorry! I'm Canadian so I'll call it millimeter kilograms...
 
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#1,256 ·
:lol:
We Americans are fending off the metric system as hard as we can lol

Well back at it again for a few hours today. Finally got the preload set just right, man did that take a ton of torque. I maxed out at 300 ft lb on the torque wrench then kept at it with a breaker bar and two pipes. Finally got it
 
#1,257 ·
I don't blame you one bit, I hate it.
 
#1,258 ·
Got the gears set and started putting everything back together. Had to head to class for a few hours and hopefully I can run back to the shop and finish it up and test drive tonight. Fingers crossed
 
#1,259 ·
Good luck..
 
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#1,260 ·
Everything is back together and I drive it about 15 miles so far. Everything seems great! It’s hard to tell with my exhaust but I couldn’t hear any gear noise or weird sounds. Nothing out of the ordinary. It’s killing me not to hop on the throttle right away, gonna give it a week of break in. It does feel pretty good just cruising around. Any specific reccomendations for oil type? I used standard STP 85-140w. That was the closest to the 75-140w the service manual stated
 
#1,261 ·
You can check it's temperature. After a short drive if you can hold your fingers on the cover you are golden. If you can't hold your fingers on the cover for more than a five count. It is still breaking in. If you can"t touch it then it's too tight.
 
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#1,263 ·
There is a religion surrounding break-in procedures. But yet you go to the dealer to pickup a new truck and no one ever says anything about differential break-in..... odd in my book.
 
#1,264 ·
Street I've always used Klotz Synthetic Gear oil 75w/90, race has been 30W/60 the autocross and SCCA cars my boss campaigns we have been using 75W/110
 
#1,265 ·
Ok I looked up info on the tru trac website about fluid and it only said to use conventional, it didn’t specify any weights. So I just used the same weight my owners manual for the truck said. I can change it to the 80w-90 when I do the 500 miles flush. It’s cheap for fluid, not a big deal. I might call Eaton just to see if I can get any extra info on it
 
#1,266 ·
I called and asked what they recommend and got conflicting information. The representative told me to use synthetic and I mentioned the website says conventional oil. He said, well I use synthetic in my own truck. Personally I use synthetic..
Klotz has excellent produsts IMO...
 
#1,267 ·
When I did my 4:56 swap, my break in consisted of driving half a block to the main road and then a spirited a** stomping for another block. I have never had an issue and never once babied the thing.
 
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#1,268 ·
Well I am using Keith’s old 4.56 gears sooooo technically they are broken in already haha
 
#1,270 ·
Took the wife out to teach her how to drive the truck. It was alittle rocky and she almost went into 1st instead of 3rd one time but I caught it in time lol but she got the hang of it ok. 4.56's and wet roads means traction is an issue now, should of seen her eyes when she almost put it sideways through an intersection :danger: :lol:
 
#1,280 ·
She has never driven mine, although my six year old has sat on my lap steering it while cruising around my neighborhood. Get them hooked early...
 
#1,272 ·
Back in the day I never told the wife she couldn't drive my truck. But on the other hand she didn't have a key to it....
 
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#1,273 ·
I never cared about here driving it before the transmission swap, but it does make me worried with the shifter set up lol but since we only have the 2 vehicles there are occasions we need to swap cars so it is what it is.
 
#1,274 ·
HAHAHA I actually went into first gear at wot 45mph lol. The way the shifter is I can go between 1-2 either way without moving the rod since it use to be N-D lol. I made a wot pull 1-2 no issues rode 2nd all the way to 6500 and then slapped the shifter forward lol nose dived the truck slid the tires and then I pulled it back to 2nd. Coaster for a second and then went about my driving lol. I think the only reason the trans didn’t grenade was because I have the bolt in sprag I completely believe that saved me when I did that!
 
#1,275 ·
Yeah that's all I can see is her using the truck sometime without me and doing that, and just grenading my trans lol I've seen some bad pictures of that sprague, next time the trans comes out I'll do a bolt in one
 
#1,276 ·
Made my first full hit up for 6k+ on the new gears, man it’s just brutal shifting into 2nd gear at full throttle haha it just destroyed the tires. I’m wondering if I should back off the band just a touch, it didn’t feel like bind I don’t think, but still pretty violent. It feels a lot faster, I might get that 14 second pass hopefully.

I’ve had an issue with the starter twice now where it wouldn’t engage it. It always happened when I was on my way to work or class. I thought it was an issue with the neutral safety switch somehow not engaging perfectly, but after some messing around I found the solenoid for the starter was loose and weak. That’s what I get for buying a cheap used starter haha. So I picked up a new starter and got it on tonight, so hopefully I don’t get stranded again
 
#1,277 ·
Brutal 1st to 2nd shifts is a hallmark of the ole 727 trans if I had a Dime for every Ford guy who grabbed the bottom of the passenger side seat when that shaft hit at WOT....get use to it and buy lots of U-joints...wait I keep forgetting you don't have those old 7290s that snapped once a month...thank good for 1350 u-joints.


how's the cruising RPM with the 4.56s do you notice a difference ? you still have 33's on it ?
 
#1,278 ·
Rpm is 1750 at 55ish, 2000 for 60, 2150 for 65, 2300ish at 70 on 33” a/t tires. Gas mileage was about 10mpg driving to work every day. 2nd gear feels so much better then before. 1st is better but it took the biggest hit from the 545 ratio
 
#1,279 ·
with 30's on it you won't remember the difference between the 545 and the 518 gearing till you get up to 60/70 cruse MPH.
 
#1,281 ·
Started messing around with the heads tonight. It went much quicker the the early heads since there is more room to work but it's still gonna take awhile getting the bowls cleaned up nice in the corners around the valve stems.
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