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Greg
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19,974 Posts
Most folks go to higher stall converter to get heavily cammed engine high enough to pull the gear they are using. I start in 2nd without issue.. (3500 9").. actually I can just as easily start in 3rd.
 

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Proud Canadian
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96 Posts
yes i realize that, i am saying though that aside from the launch it is always locked so there are really no flash stall benefits or anything, and with a 4.71 first gear you'd need a cam in the 300+ degree range for there to be any delay in getting up on it lol
 

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Greg
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19,974 Posts
All true... what rpm are you trapping at? That would be a good reference.. with your truck I would gear for 6500 @ 130mph.. as a start.
 

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Proud Canadian
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96 Posts
All true... what rpm are you trapping at? That would be a good reference.. with your truck I would gear for 6500 @ 130mph.. as a start.

couldn't tell you, i haven't been to the track this summer at all. but for now I am leaving the powertrain setup pretty much where it is, aside from a better driveshaft which I will get built this winter. with those 4.56's in there, that driveshaft is spinning like a friggin dremel. with the tire on the truck, 305/35/24, it is turning roughly 2,838rpm at 60mph. it is 3.5"/0.83" and 62" from the output flange to pinion flange, minus about 14" for the yokes and slip joint. it is just too risky going much into triple digit speeds, which was a big reason for staying away from the track and just winding it out period. I love the 4.56's for driving around so I don't want to do a gear change.

but i am done tossing money at this drivetrain, I decided a this year that I am going to start building a big block for it instead, but that will be a multi-year project as the cost of it makes me want to barf. so now any mods (aside from the driveshaft) will be geared towards that.

this winter I am doing a full suspension change, tubular control arms up front and a 4 link out back, with Ridetech adjustable coilovers all around. aside from the obvious benefits of that setup, it will take a decent amount of weight out if the truck too. 4 coilovers, 5 bars, and the tubular lower CA's probably weigh the same as 1 leaf spring. so with the leafs, torsions, those giant cast lowers, torsion crossmember/keys all gone, that should be a pretty good chunk of weight out of there.
 

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Greg
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19,974 Posts
I can recommend truckarm suspension. Rides good, track great at speed and handles big power without issue. Kits available from Hot Rod to Hell. I use coilovers in the front but only replaced the coil spring and shock. I still want to redo the whole front suspension with something lighter.
 
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Tyler
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591 Posts
I probably will not have any more updates on this until next spring. I have bought the transmission, a center console for the console shifter as well as a shifter. I have various other parts accumulated such as cooler lines and stuff as well as I did just get the torque converter back from TCS which is now a built high stall.
I just paid a big dentist bill for my oldest son today so I am tapped for the season. This is literally the only benefit of living up here in that it sits parked for six months of winter while I save money for the next modification. I will probably order the stuff I need from Sound German during the course of winter.
 

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Proud Canadian
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96 Posts
I can recommend truckarm suspension. Rides good, track great at speed and handles big power without issue. Kits available from Hot Rod to Hell. I use coilovers in the front but only replaced the coil spring and shock. I still want to redo the whole front suspension with something lighter.

https://djmsuspension.com/product/ca2392l-2/

these will help you drop some weight
 
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Greg
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19,974 Posts

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Proud Canadian
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96 Posts
I'm thinking of a kit or making my own lower control arms. I read those may not be as light as you think.

the 4wd lower control arms are very, very heavy. the material to make the spring pocket does add a fair bit of weight to the djm arms, and i am planning on seeing how much of it I can get rid of once I buy a set.

did you switch to a different sway bar with the coilovers? I plan on installing a different one along with the rest of the suspension parts this winter, but i haven't really looked at the options yet.
 

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Proud Canadian
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96 Posts

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Greg
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19,974 Posts
Still using the oem sway bar. Red weighs 4600lbs so is no light weight but has a phenomenal launch on slicks. The supercharger and it's supporting equipment is the only weight thats been added. Alot has been removed and there is still another couple hundred pounds that could be removed considering tailgate and tonneau cover. Keeping in mind red is a street truck and not a dedicated racer I am very happy with it..
 

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Proud Canadian
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96 Posts
Still using the oem sway bar. Red weighs 4600lbs so is no light weight but has a phenomenal launch on slicks. The supercharger and it's supporting equipment is the only weight thats been added. Alot has been removed and there is still another couple hundred pounds that could be removed considering tailgate and tonneau cover. Keeping in mind red is a street truck and not a dedicated racer I am very happy with it..
so what is your opinion on the coilovers, and do you have double adjustables all around or just up front?
 

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Greg
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19,974 Posts
What's not to.like about coilovers? They are light, ride good, adjustable for height. As for adjusting them there are something around 250 combinations. I got tired of changing settings and finally left them alone with roughly a 40/60 in front and 50/50 rear.
 

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Proud Canadian
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96 Posts
What's not to.like about coilovers? They are light, ride good, adjustable for height. As for adjusting them there are something around 250 combinations. I got tired of changing settings and finally left them alone with roughly a 40/60 in front and 50/50 rear.
what spring rate did you go with?
 

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Greg
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I'll need to look at my notes, but I think they are 450# rears and 550# fronts. The fronts are ViKings and I had to select the shocks, springs from their catalog to build a kit. Actually I used Vikings because they had a very descriptive catalog.
 
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Proud Canadian
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96 Posts
4wd will be easier because of the transfer case output vs the 2wd trans tailshaft. the 2wd is a flanged output so you will need a slip joint in the driveshaft with a 2wd transmission, with a transfer case you have a slip yoke, so a simpler and usually stronger driveshaft, depending on design of course.

I used a transmission from a Challenger and it has a flanged output as well. the car driveshaft has a CV/Giubo joint on the driveshaft because since it has an IRS setup, there is no change in the distance between the trans and diff during suspension travel, so a bit of lateral/twisting movement is all that has to be accounted for. I used a Sonnax slip yoke eliminator flange which bolts onto the trans output flange and lets you run a 1350 u-joint, and I have a splined slip joint at the front of the driveshaft, which gives the movement I need but is stronger than a slip shaft.
 

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2008 Ram 1500 4x4 5.7 for now....
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4wd will be easier because of the transfer case output vs the 2wd trans tailshaft. the 2wd is a flanged output so you will need a slip joint in the driveshaft with a 2wd transmission, with a transfer case you have a slip yoke, so a simpler and usually stronger driveshaft, depending on design of course.

I used a transmission from a Challenger and it has a flanged output as well. the car driveshaft has a CV/Giubo joint on the driveshaft because since it has an IRS setup, there is no change in the distance between the trans and diff during suspension travel, so a bit of lateral/twisting movement is all that has to be accounted for. I used a Sonnax slip yoke eliminator flange which bolts onto the trans output flange and lets you run a 1350 u-joint, and I have a splined slip joint at the front of the driveshaft, which gives the movement I need but is stronger than a slip shaft.
Awesome info. Can you point me to a thread where there is more info on the swap, or could you perhaps share your experience here? What was all involved? Custom mounts? Custom shafts? where did you get stuff? Where were the challenges? Did you use the German Automotive harness that was talked about on the first page?
 

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Red Trucker
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247 Posts
Harley is the resident expert here lol. Hey @Harleyc04 , do you want me to just forward the lengthy pm you sent me to him? Probably answer most if not all of his questions.
 

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Proud Canadian
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96 Posts
Harley is the resident expert here lol. Hey @Harleyc04 , do you want me to just forward the lengthy pm you sent me to him? Probably answer most if not all of his questions.

there is always more to learn, and I have made a couple tweaks. running the standalone on the engine was something I definitely wish I had done from the start too. I will do a detailed writeup with some pictures in a few days, I'm not at home right now. I do like the performance/driveability, but I am on the fence about whether I would still do it if I could do it all over again. I will explain it in more detail in a couple days.
 
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