Most folks go to higher stall converter to get heavily cammed engine high enough to pull the gear they are using. I start in 2nd without issue.. (3500 9").. actually I can just as easily start in 3rd.
All true... what rpm are you trapping at? That would be a good reference.. with your truck I would gear for 6500 @ 130mph.. as a start.
I can recommend truckarm suspension. Rides good, track great at speed and handles big power without issue. Kits available from Hot Rod to Hell. I use coilovers in the front but only replaced the coil spring and shock. I still want to redo the whole front suspension with something lighter.
also - for these heavy trucks, do you feel there was an advantage to going with double adjustable coilovers?
so what is your opinion on the coilovers, and do you have double adjustables all around or just up front?Still using the oem sway bar. Red weighs 4600lbs so is no light weight but has a phenomenal launch on slicks. The supercharger and it's supporting equipment is the only weight thats been added. Alot has been removed and there is still another couple hundred pounds that could be removed considering tailgate and tonneau cover. Keeping in mind red is a street truck and not a dedicated racer I am very happy with it..
what spring rate did you go with?What's not to.like about coilovers? They are light, ride good, adjustable for height. As for adjusting them there are something around 250 combinations. I got tired of changing settings and finally left them alone with roughly a 40/60 in front and 50/50 rear.
Awesome info. Can you point me to a thread where there is more info on the swap, or could you perhaps share your experience here? What was all involved? Custom mounts? Custom shafts? where did you get stuff? Where were the challenges? Did you use the German Automotive harness that was talked about on the first page?4wd will be easier because of the transfer case output vs the 2wd trans tailshaft. the 2wd is a flanged output so you will need a slip joint in the driveshaft with a 2wd transmission, with a transfer case you have a slip yoke, so a simpler and usually stronger driveshaft, depending on design of course.
I used a transmission from a Challenger and it has a flanged output as well. the car driveshaft has a CV/Giubo joint on the driveshaft because since it has an IRS setup, there is no change in the distance between the trans and diff during suspension travel, so a bit of lateral/twisting movement is all that has to be accounted for. I used a Sonnax slip yoke eliminator flange which bolts onto the trans output flange and lets you run a 1350 u-joint, and I have a splined slip joint at the front of the driveshaft, which gives the movement I need but is stronger than a slip shaft.