So, the TCM went out in the 03. Found a re-manufactured unit and it's on the way. The funny thing is, been driving it back and forth to work in trans limp mode for a month now... It's either 2nd or 3rd gear been driving it in. Just taking it easy on the take off. 2600rpm's at 50mph. The trans isn't overheating at all. 130 to 140 degree's. I've started driving the 05 back and forth from work now. Got to get some engine break-in mile on the 05. She's running good.
545RFE Trans. Mods
2
Hey Josh, are you running a stock torque converter. That could explain the hard down shifts. Or, do you have the Torque Management option tuned off? With my tune from Marty. My Torque management is turned off. Some times, it will get a harder than normal down shift when slowing down. I bet that is a much harder down shift in a stage III.
"The Sharadon stage III trans was set-up to run a 2800 to 3500 rpm stall TC. Denny said the trans works best with 3000 rpm stall TC on a 2WD." Note: The Sharadon stage III trans is set-up more for the track than the street.
The shudder, hesitate, and bump bump bump?
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I would call and talk to Denny about those problems. He won't be in town until 9/14. I have to call him back on that date to find out what my options are for a 03 trans build.
Bill, are you having this same hard down shift at 30 mph? I'm guessing your Torque Management is turned off also?
"The Sharadon stage III trans was set-up to run a 2800 to 3500 rpm stall TC. Denny said the trans works best with 3000 rpm stall TC on a 2WD." Note: The Sharadon stage III trans is set-up more for the track than the street.
The shudder, hesitate, and bump bump bump?
Bill, are you having this same hard down shift at 30 mph? I'm guessing your Torque Management is turned off also?
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Finally got around to getting the codes checked on the 03.
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Finally got some time to do some research on the 03 trans trouble codes. Turned out to be the transmission relay going bad. Swapped it with the fog lamp relay and verified it was bad. The 03 trans is shifting as it should now. 
Work sucks... The company I work for is falling apart. They're trying to make people do way more work then they can handle and doesn't reflect in the pay. Nobody wants to work there anymore. We're losing people left and right. Even managers are leaving. And of course the people that are still working there are getting overloaded due to the lack of help. Can't wait to go part time next year.
Work sucks... The company I work for is falling apart. They're trying to make people do way more work then they can handle and doesn't reflect in the pay. Nobody wants to work there anymore. We're losing people left and right. Even managers are leaving. And of course the people that are still working there are getting overloaded due to the lack of help. Can't wait to go part time next year.
This literally just happened to me (and I did the same relay swap lol). Had to order some spares because somehow none of the parts stores in this area carry that relay.Finally got some time to do some research on the 03 trans trouble codes. Turned out to be the transmission relay going bad. Swapped it with the fog lamp relay and verified it was bad. The 03 trans is shifting as it should now.
Mine went into limp mode and actually threw the code for the relay. I swapped relays with the fogs and discovered that relay was dead as a doornail.When I checked it the first time, the relay was working and the trans was shifting correctly at that point. Didn't check it again after it went into limp mode.
HI guys.
Will upgrade my 2009 5.7 Jeep WK as follows:
5.7 Hemi is running a Diablo 91 octane tune (something around 375-380hp), and self-made transmission tune with overall +25psi line pressure, +30psi minimum minimum pressure with changed shift schedules, standart TC. I also installed new check balls, valve body plate gaskets, new solenoid block (white connector).
I will probably never have your problems (far from your engine power), but since it will be my first rebuild with upgrade, I am curious if you have something to add, or point as an error in the above list.
Bought the vehicle with badly burnt transmission (a genius put the UD piston return spring beneath the UD piston instead of between UD and balance pistons), I rebuilt it some months ago and it works fine, but I will have to remove it again for rear crankshaft seal replacement, so I also want to upgrade it.
Unfortunately I cannot get Red Eagle / Kolene for all the clutches - I can get what is available in RockAuto and very limited parts from other places in Europe - I was lucky enough that ALTO 128757 was available in Europe for a decent price.
My main question is, should I also go with Raybestos RTK6804 GPZ 4C pack fro 68RFE (whitch to all of my knowledge also fits 545RFE, again same thickness), which also adds 1 more plate and steel to 4C, or should I stay with standart 3F/3S Raybestos High Energy? From what I can see from this thread, the main headache you have are the UD/OD clutches and the rest are more or less OK even when badly abused?
Will upgrade my 2009 5.7 Jeep WK as follows:
- UD - Raybestos RTK-6801 GPZ single sided pack for68RFE (standart 10 single sided frictions, as far as I can see - same heigth as the original pak of 545RFE)
- OD - TransGo RFE-PP-ODHP + Raybestos High Energy frictions (5 frictions, 4 steels instead of 4/3)
- Reverse - Raybestos Tan (standart 2 frictions, 1 steel)
- 2C - ALTO 128757 kit - Red Eagle frictions with Kolene steels (thinner 3 frictions, 3 steels instead of 2/2)
- 4C - Raybestos High Energy (standart 3 frictions, 3 steels)
- L/R - Raybestos High Energy (standart 6 frictions, 6 steels)
- Sonnax accumulator pistons
- Sonnax shicker accumulator piston plate
5.7 Hemi is running a Diablo 91 octane tune (something around 375-380hp), and self-made transmission tune with overall +25psi line pressure, +30psi minimum minimum pressure with changed shift schedules, standart TC. I also installed new check balls, valve body plate gaskets, new solenoid block (white connector).
I will probably never have your problems (far from your engine power), but since it will be my first rebuild with upgrade, I am curious if you have something to add, or point as an error in the above list.
Bought the vehicle with badly burnt transmission (a genius put the UD piston return spring beneath the UD piston instead of between UD and balance pistons), I rebuilt it some months ago and it works fine, but I will have to remove it again for rear crankshaft seal replacement, so I also want to upgrade it.
Unfortunately I cannot get Red Eagle / Kolene for all the clutches - I can get what is available in RockAuto and very limited parts from other places in Europe - I was lucky enough that ALTO 128757 was available in Europe for a decent price.
My main question is, should I also go with Raybestos RTK6804 GPZ 4C pack fro 68RFE (whitch to all of my knowledge also fits 545RFE, again same thickness), which also adds 1 more plate and steel to 4C, or should I stay with standart 3F/3S Raybestos High Energy? From what I can see from this thread, the main headache you have are the UD/OD clutches and the rest are more or less OK even when badly abused?
I watched it (I've read all 43 pages believe it or not ) before posting to the thread. I am sure this company makes very good products, but there's no details on clutch pack upgrade in the video , nor on their site, other than obvious UD/OD cage/drum upgrade.
Just asking if there are obvious mistakes or something missing from what I intent to do, that's all. I am not doing any extremes nor upgrading a race vehicle - the vehicle is almost in stock condition (+20hp, slight lift + 1.5 inch larger tires) and I am not towing anything. I just want my transmission to last as long as possible for a reasonable price given the vehicle's purpose as a family "fun-car".
) before posting to the thread. I am sure this company makes very good products, but there's no details on clutch pack upgrade in the video , nor on their site, other than obvious UD/OD cage/drum upgrade.Just asking if there are obvious mistakes or something missing from what I intent to do, that's all. I am not doing any extremes nor upgrading a race vehicle - the vehicle is almost in stock condition (+20hp, slight lift + 1.5 inch larger tires) and I am not towing anything. I just want my transmission to last as long as possible for a reasonable price given the vehicle's purpose as a family "fun-car".
4:56/4:10 gears with the stock torque converter takes some of the load off of the trans to make it last longer. Also liked running a 2800 stall converter with the Sonnex line pressure booster kit. The Smart tech OD clutch housing kit is well worth the money. The most important: Never do a wide open throttle from 45-55mph down shifting into second prime. It will fry the OD clutches. That's the 545rfe trans weak spot. Keeping the trans fluid cool is just as important. Install the large trans cooler and the large trans pan. Their both well worth the money as well.
www.sonnax.com
Chrysler 68RFE Transmission
Sonnax Transmission parts for Chrysler 68RFE applications
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