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Greg
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20,037 Posts
Torque converter stall should reflect your vehicle's weight gear ratio and the ability of your engine to make torque. If the converter is too tight the engine can't spin into it's power range. If too loose it'll spin through the engine power range missing the moment of applying power to the ground. Factory choose 2600 stall for their R/T- 4:10 gear.. with more cam, 2800 stall works great for a street truck. With alot of cam and noticeable loss of low end higher stall converter is needed. Gear ratio and weight also needs to be considered in selecting comverter size/stall. I recommend talking to Martin or a converter builder to select what works for your setup. I like to describe a converter action by using a rubber band with a weight suspended from it. Bounce the weight up and down holding the end of the rubber band. The weaker the rubber band the more energy stored in the rubber band. Too weak there is lost of control of the stored energy. Too tight there is no energy stored. Hope that made sense...
 
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Ariel
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810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I have 4:56 gears running 33” possibly going up in the future to 35” tires. Engines currently stock but spoke with Jay Greene a while back and the cam he recommended was 209/222 to compliment the blower. What do you guys think? 2800 stall?
 

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Greg
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20,037 Posts
That cam should have pretty good grunt, your truck I'm guessing is heavy. My guess 2800 stall will allow you to transition to full boost without issue. Should be a lot of fun with the 46re trans. On a previous build I went from 33" to 35" and found they killed performance and I needed more brakes. I was not happy with them..
 

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Ariel
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810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Just heard back from Martin. He spoke with Keith and they figured out ill need a 46RE in order to keep the factory transfer case in its current location. He mentioned ill need a stand alone controller. Would that be for lock up and od?
 

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Greg
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20,037 Posts
Are you going to use a manual valve body? If so all you'll need is two switches. One for lockup and the other for OD. If you are using a auto shifting valve body then a stand alone TCM and TV cable is needed.
 

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Ariel
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810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Are you going to use a manual valve body? If so all you'll need is two switches. One for lockup and the other for OD. If you are using a auto shifting valve body then a stand alone TCM and TV cable is needed.
I didn't know i can go full automatic. I thought my only option was manually shifting. I think i prefer automatic.
 

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Greg
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20,037 Posts
I first went full auto vb. But soon changed to manually shifting. I used pressure switches to control shifts and switches for OD & LU. When using the auto vb you need a TV cable to control clutch pressure when auto shifting. The problem is the pressure switches are determined by speed alone with no input from the throttle. So mostly you find you are in the wrong gear and have manually shift anyway. With alot of R&D I believe you could retro fit a early primitive TCM from say a 96' ram and make it work as well as it did in 96'. But IMO hardly worth the effort. I think you will find using a manual vb and using 2nd & 3rd is a lot of fun and no inconvenient in any way.
 
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Ariel
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810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
I first went full auto vb. But soon changed to manually shifting. I used pressure switches to control shifts and switches for OD & LU. When using the auto vb you need a TV cable to control clutch pressure when auto shifting. The problem is the pressure switches are determined by speed alone with no input from the throttle. So mostly you find you are in the wrong gear and have manually shift anyway. With alot of R&D I believe you could retro fit a early primitive TCM from say a 96' ram and make it work as well as it did in 96'. But IMO hardly worth the effort. I think you will find using a manual vb and using 2nd & 3rd is a lot of fun and no inconvenient in any way.
If i end up going with the swap i definitely dont want any shifting issues. Its pretty much the main reason ive thought of getting rid of the truck now. I think ill stick with the manual shifting. Sounds like what ime looking for.
 

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Ariel
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810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Keith would the 4x4 switch on my dash still work?

Ive seen a few different styles of shifters online. Is there a specific i should be looking for?
 

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Greg
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20,037 Posts
I am certainly happy with mine....
 

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Ariel
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810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Im not sure which one i gave him. Ill attache a pic of the one i got. Ill look under there tomorrow i didn't realize there was two. Do you know if this is the one?
 

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Ariel
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810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
So Martin said the 46re should bolt right up to my transfer case. Hopefully that means for an easier install. Once i get my boost issue figured out ill start working on making this happen.

Will doing the swap cause any dash lights to stay on?
 

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Stu
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21,379 Posts
Once i get my boost issue figured out ill start working on making this happen.

Part of your boost issue is the normal operation of the 545rfe trans. When you let off the throttle, it goes into over drive. You have to turn off the od to accelerate faster than you would normally. If you don't turn off the od, it will down shift hard into 2nd prime, go into boost and do what it's presently doing. And that's not good for the 545rfe trans od clutches. My 03 and my 05 does the same thing. There is a certain way you have to treat the 545rfe trans when you have boost. That means running it with the od off around town. In your case, I would go ahead and do the 46re swap. You'll be happier with the overall performance of your truck. The 46re/rh has many more high performance mod options than the 545rfe trans. Plus, your truck is a heavy 4x4. It take a tole on the weak 545rfe trans. Keith will have to tune your manual pcm anyhow.
 

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Ariel
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810 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
When my 46re kicked the bucket I almost had it rebuilt at my shop but actually ended up ordering a remnaufactured transmission from these guys, https://reman-transmission.com/transmission-codes/?code=46RE, and had my friend over at smoky mountain diesel add some goodies too it. Ended up way cheaper than what some other shops quoted me...
Thanks for the link. I still plan on having the swap done but life got in the way again and had to push this back. Ill keep that site in mind for when im ready.
 
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