Looks like you've got a very clean install going there :thumb:.

:dance:

 

I believe many of the newer trans have internal P N R switches built into them. I prefer using the trans switches over the shifter switches.

 

Looking good:thumb::thumb:

 

Awesome looking console!

 

I'm really interested in seeing how the PCM reacts.

 

Good deal keep us posted in this. I am also interested to see how pcm acts we know how the 3rd gens act they need a flash to totally go to manual and keep engine light off. Don't get me wrong the 3rd gens have a light without a flash but the pcm doesn't care and the power is never taken down by the pcm of you power brake launch :thumb:

 

That's what I'm very curious to find out. With HPT I can select a manual transmission but if it'll still throw a code or not will be interesting to know. It's not like I haven't lived with an engine light since I started this build, just like a VW, if the engine light is off there's something wrong. I just know I can't flash the 4th gen PCM to a manual PCM because they never existed with the VVT/manual or this would be a lot easier.

I have learned that the 4L80e doesn't have an internal NSS so I'll be making something work.

 

Put a micro switch on the shifter at the park location and tie that into the trigger wire from the pcm to the tipm since yours won't have a starter relay! This way when your in any spot but park with that switch pressed the pcm signal to the tipm won't complete and starter won't crank!

 

The Outlaw shifter comes with a switch for Park and Neutral so I'll be using that I think, I wanted to install a starter lockout anyway so this could make it easier to do now. Happen to know how the reverse signal is triggered? I'm thinking I'll have to get another switch for reverse since the PCM has no input for that anymore.

 

The only issue I've heard going to a manual trans is the throttle hanging open after a downshift. I think it's an emissions tune thing to keep the engine from snapping into a deep vacuum once the throttle is released quickly. I've felt this on many manual cars and trucks but a highly modified engine can lead to weird results from this. (no engine braking for several seconds, maybe even accelerating)

 

There is a spot to adjust for just that issue in the decel fuel cut tables. This is a big issue with cam and boosted motors especially if the trims are way off it will auto cruise and self accel sometimes

 

How hard would it be to program the 2014 for manual trans?

 

That's one of the things I'm going to find out in about a week. It may be that tuning it out in HPT will be all that's required but it may result in a code being thrown but shouldn't affect the engine performance. Since there were no 4th gens that came with a manual there's no option to write out the trans completely with a flash like can be done with the 3rd gens.

 

Subscribed

 

A third gen requires the pcm to be sent to a place like B&G to flash the manual file into it. Turning it off in CMR or any other program for that matter will result in codes and a light. However even if there's codes and a light the pcm doesn't care and works like factory but better lol doesn't know when you not moving so it allows burnouts and launching under load without pulling torque :thumb:

 

3g's also have manual pcm available from 2500/3500 model trucks. These are difficult to find and are usually expensive compared to the automatic version pcm. You can identify them by c4 being blank.

 

this will be my plan B if Jay can't tune out the trans and keep the lights off

 

I can do that, I believe I have a spare. I know I have 2 for the R/T

 

I got started on the swap yesterday and today. As it sits at the end of the day, I have a starter that now fits, I'm sure I could have kept looking for one I didn't have to modify but I have a starter that's built for 18:1 compression ratio engines, so that should get everything cranking. I was able to measure everything up with the Reid bellhousing which made life easy since I wasn't trying to work around the trans the whole time. It's only got 1 bolt holding it to the base plate so I'll probably tack the starter body to the base plate just for peace of mind.

I dummy mounted the trans as well to start measuring up the crossmember and turns out on the 4wd it's 5" forward of the 4L80's mount. I have an old step notch I'm going to use to make an extension to the oem crossmember and it should work nicely. I had to notch the passenger's side starter boss on the Reid bellhousing to clear the headers, not too bad of a job, it's not pretty though.

I'm still waiting on the flexplate and yoke to show up but that should be by the end of the week.

 

As much as I dislike the idea of a GM trans, I do greatly appreciate the time your putting into documenting this swap. It's a shame that FC can't put an automatic transmission that can take the punishment in these trucks.
Looks good.

 

They do now... 8HP70 and 8HP90

 

Is there a controller that can be used?

 

there area few , TCI has one that is really good.

 

If there is a controller available for the 8spd, then that I would think be the goto transmission for upgrading. It certainly wasn't available when I did the 46rh install.

 

I don't think there is, seams like to use the 8sp right now you need a computer from the donor vehicle. I looked in to swapping one in to the 2104 at that time no one had an answer, I've been wondering about the 66rfe if maybe that could be a viable answer.

 

The little research I did. It appears the tcm is internal with four wires coming out of it. 12v power, ground wire and the other two are canbus connection used to talk to all the other modules. Couldnt find a stand alone available for it. My opinion at this moment is the 46rh is still the goto trans with the 4L80 being the more expensive backup.

 

I believe the 66RFE It's possible with tunning but the gear ratios in the trans are similar to the 68RFE

 

Actually just looked up the gear ratios on a 66 and they are the same as the 68RFE plus I would think it would be hard to find a 66RFE

 

45/545/66/68 are all virtually the same trans with the 68 haveing a few before oarts and the 66 just being programmed different. They will all fail under added power and all suggested to be driven way diff with power adders! The 8speed trans actually has a co triller built into the transmission itself in a way. The best bang for the buck is the 518/46rh for up to 700hp range after that well I don't know as I'm not pushing more than that into it lol! The 4l80 is a pricey swap for sure but will hold power. All in all the trans and route chosen depends on the budget and the power wanted IMO!

 

And we always want more power.

 

By the time I'm done this will probably be a $10K swap but it's now good to 1200hp and comes with a 3yr warranty as long as it's kept below 7000rpm. I would have loved to swap the 8-speed in, but not being able to tune it or make it work with the PCM since there are no standalone controllers for it would have been a nightmare.

 

The 8 speed transmissions haven't proven anything yet. They can turn out to be a crap just like the 545rfe. And I'm sure their much more expensive to repair than a 4L80 trans.

The 4L80 is a proven high hp transmission. :thumb::thumb::thumb: