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Leon
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks,
Been MIA on here for quite a while, I wanted to keep a running thread of the project I've bitten off too much to chew on but life gets in the way. Hope everyone is healthy and not out of work, been a crazy year for sure.

Backstory:
My ol Ram has 220k kms on it, always well maintained but never babied. Procharger and ATS 545rfe with Co-Pilot and Edge 2800 converter went in a couple years ago.
Had some issues, pretty sure the lifters were starting to go. If I was of a more sound mind I likely would have put a cam and lifters in it but hey, why not build an engine I could just swap in. Quick and easy right?

Canada sucks for finding a used core at a reasonable price. Guys wanted $2000 for most of them. Found one for $2800 with 60k on it that already had a Comp 266, springs, Arrington pushrods and Hellcat lifters. Guy I bought it from is a great dude and threw in a set of JBA ceramic coated shorties with it. These prices probably seem high, remember the Canadian peso isn't that strong- the parts I got made the engine basically free.

Well you get looking, thinking and dreaming when you're stuck somewhere hot, sandy and Middle Eastern so I decided I better go all forged. If you're going to do that, might as well make it a stroker. I stripped er down to the block and sent it to my mom's cousin who has a engine machine shop. He punched it out .030" over and did a bunch of head work. I (stupidly in retrospect) decided on a Scat kit, around 9.5:1 CR:
  • 4340-forged steel crankshaft for 5.7Hemi, 4.050” stroke, reluctor wheel not included (use OEM or Mopar Performance reluctor; pilot bushing I.D. 1.090”)
  • 4340-forged steel I-beam connecting rods, 6.125” center-to-center length, with 7/16” ARP 2000 capscrews
  • Wiseco forged piston, 2618-alloy, 3.927” bore, -22cc dish, ArmorGlide skirt coating. Include GFX rings, locks and pins
  • ACL Race main bearings
  • Clevite HN-series rod bearings
  • Clevite Thrust Washer set
  • Internally Balanced
The kit took a half a year to show up....I know, I know- the 'rona but come on guys. My machinist was getting in Eagle, Callies and Manley kits in the matter of weeks. I went down to the shop (8 hour drive) to do the rings and put the rotating assy together. Rings gapped, then we realized the stock reluctor I had was 3 bolt and the crank was 4. I won't get into it but dealing with Scat was a nightmare, they were going to send a ring, then they called me saying out of stock and couldn't tell me where to get one. HUGE shout out to Chris Carlson at CNC Motorsports for helping me out and clearing up confusion on tooth width, he took my phone call and explained that Callies designed them to work with all 09+ ECU. Said that Scat has caused them lots of heartache by not including them in their kits.

Was waiting for my machinist to come up and help me after I got my reluctor nightmare solved but with coivd and scheduling it didn't happen. I bought my own stretch gauge to torque the rods. I'm an ex aircraft mechanic so figured I should be able to assemble it myself.

Parts (almost all from Rock Auto):
-ARP main studs, header, flywheel
-Melling high pressure oil pump
-Mahle head gaskets (because they are over bored)
-Gates water pump (there's another story I'll explain later)
-Most miscellaneous gaskets and such are Fel-Pro
-All new sensors and pulleys
-Mild port on the heads, skim cut, new valve guides, shimmed
-Sent the TC back to get cut, cleaned and checked. Andre is an awesome, honest guy. Was having issues with shudder, ATS blamed the TC, fingers crossed it is solved.

You have to stop somewhere- this build was way out of hand so I skimped and used OEM spec Fel-Pro head bolts (vs $400 ARP), the Mahle head gaskets (vs $300 Cometic), stock damper (vs $600+ Super Damper). Check out the pics of what I had to do to put a key in the damper. Hope those sacrifices don't bite me but they will have to do for now.

Need to bug Keith and get a basic tune just to get it on the road, get a few miles on it to break it in, then down to the dyno shop in Ottawa. Hoping with the smaller pulley I can get 12 lbs of boost (will probably be more like 11 lbs). That's with the smallest pulley ATI makes.

I'd love to see 670 Freedom Eagles on the dyno and know I basically made a reckneck Hellram. That is probably optimistic without the Super Damper to spin that poor P1SC up near as high as she goes.

Enough yapping, I will try and figure out how to add pics
 

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Leon
Joined
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys! Guess we will find out about the head gasket/ bolts. I wont be more than 12 lbs and its a centrifugal so not ramming the air in at low RPM. Life keeps getting in the way, engine is in the truck and bolted up but still need to hook up everything else.
 

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Leon
Joined
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What are you boosted folk using for injectors? Supidly I just kinda assumed the one that came with the Procharger kit would be good to go but they're only 42 lb. Got my eye on a set of the Hellcat ones but wondering if they use the same connector and are the same length?
 

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Stu
Joined
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21,216 Posts
Guess we will find out about the head gasket/ bolts.
I found out the hard way...(n)

What are you boosted folk using for injectors? Got my eye on a set of the Hellcat ones but wondering if they use the same connector and are the same length?
Using 80lb injectors for my turbo setup. Call MMX (Modern Muscle Extreme). They should be able to give you that info.
 

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Administrator
Joined
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17,866 Posts
My injectors are 96lbs lol. You should be able to get in for from MMX or get some hellcat injectors they are the same plug.
 

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Leon
Joined
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well it's not going so good trying to get this to run. Starts cold fine but as soon as it warms up, it struggles to start and you have to give it a bit of throttle. It'll stall when you let off the gas and it goes down to idle when driving even. I just replaced the throttle body because there isn't much common with the old motor except the intake and it was having idle issues when warm. When I turn to key to Run, I noticed it has a throttle control light on the dash that goes off when it is started, do you need to do some kind of re-learn besides the one I read of just depressing the gas pedal and letting go slowly with the key on??
 

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Mark G Senior Member
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1,935 Posts
Well it's not going so good trying to get this to run. Starts cold fine but as soon as it warms up, it struggles to start and you have to give it a bit of throttle. It'll stall when you let off the gas and it goes down to idle when driving even. I just replaced the throttle body because there isn't much common with the old motor except the intake and it was having idle issues when warm. When I turn to key to Run, I noticed it has a throttle control light on the dash that goes off when it is started, do you need to do some kind of re-learn besides the one I read of just depressing the gas pedal and letting go slowly with the key on??
Sounds like you just need to be retuned...
 

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Leon
Joined
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59 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
4 revisions on the tune and still having trouble :(. I used Standard Motor Product crank and cam position sensors off Rock Auto. I am going to try swapping in the OEM ones off my old engine as I read the aftermarket ones can cause issues. Also going to redo the re-learn on the throttle body, I didn't wait very long and the lights weren't all out. I went right to start instead of cycling off first as well.
Really hope I didn't mess up the timing, I did lots of research and took my time doing it. Figure I should be throwing codes if I was off a tooth, also it only acts up warm/hot.
 
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