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03 to 05 pcm swap problems

14K views 96 replies 10 participants last post by  YeahItsAHemi  
#1 ·
I finally decided to do the 05 pcm swap on my 03 Ram 5.7. Everyone made it sound so simple and I haven’t had anything but problems. The swap itself was simple. But my problem now is that the truck won’t turn over, won’t click, nothing double checked all my wiring again everything matches up. It’s been starting up the past couple of days. I started it today to record a log and I let it stall before it started recording. Went to crank it back up and then that’s when nothing would happen. Keith has been working with me to tune it and he has helped out a lot with all of my questions and problems. Now I’m totally lost.
 
#2 ·
So it has been starting using the 05 pcm? Started today, died and then wouldn't crank?
 
#5 ·
Sounds like you have lost neutral/ park safety switch. Jiggle your shift lever.. or jump the saftey switch.
 
#7 ·
Should be on the trans, not sure of the exact spot on the 545rfe. That could also be something with the trans wiring that got changed over. And triple check all the grounds
 
#10 ·
Try disconnecting the battery and doing a reset.
 
#11 ·
Take a look at this schematic and you can see the circuit. Is the ASD relay energizing?
 

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#15 ·
Turn the key on and look at the dash of the shift indicator is working correctly and shows what gear your in and won’t start in park or neutral then it is likely the ignition switch side of things as the park switch is not a known issue in the Rams at all.
 
#16 ·
Pin #22 p/n sense is your ground sense. This ground sense goes to the pcm. The pcm then creates a ground for c7 23 of the first diagram. Allowing the starter to crank when key is turned on. An alternative is to connect c7-23 to a makeshift p/n switch to start the truck.
 
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#20 ·
How did you make all your wire connections? Solder and heat shrink tape? Crimps? Wire nuts? Just twist the wires together and walk away? Haha
 
#22 ·
The installation quality of crimps can vary widely and often become problematic including difficult to troubleshoot. For most of us who don't have the expertise or tools to properly crimp wires use solder and heat shrink to make consistant high quality splices. Makes life much easier not having to constantly troubleshoot intermittent connections. I highly recommend you go back and remove the crimped connections and replace with soldered splices and quality heat shrink covers. You will thank yourself. No one likes electrical gremlins.
 
#23 ·
It was expensive, but I spent the extra cash and bought an OEM pigtail which came with more pins and wires than you will ever need as well as the quality shrink tubes.
 
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#24 ·
I had very little splicing to do since c4 was totally removed. The few pins I needed I took from a spare plug. Something to be said for stand alone trans.....
 
#26 · (Edited)
Ok, lets start over again. When the trans is placed in p/n it creates a ground sense to the pcm. The pcm senses this ground and internally creates another ground that goes to the starter circuit allowing the starter motor to crank. So first go to the trans plug and test the wire for a ground condition. I'll post the wire that needs to be identified and tested. If someone else has it handy they are welcome to post it..
 

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#27 ·
I remember having trouble with finding a good quality ground spot. Ended up drilling a Holt for a screw on the frame somewhere. So your starter is not engaging at all? There is also a wire connector near the fuse box that’s the trigger wire for the starter motor. You can hit that on the battery terminal and try turning the key to start the truck. That could help isolate where a problem is originating, starter side or control side
 
#30 ·
I remember having trouble with finding a good quality ground spot. Ended up drilling a Holt for a screw on the frame somewhere. So your starter is not engaging at all? There is also a wire connector near the fuse box that’s the trigger wire for the starter motor. You can hit that on the battery terminal and try turning the key to start the truck. That could help isolate where a problem is originating, starter side or control side[/QUOTE that was the first thing I tried. Starter is good and has power
 
#31 ·
Ground c7-23 to act as p/n. This takes the pcm out of the start loop.
 
#33 · (Edited)
Its the same wire as c3-38 at the pcm but the other end at the IPM. DG/OR
 

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#35 ·
When ignition is turned on, the ASD relay energises for around 5 seconds. Suppling power to fuel pump, ignition and injectors. If no rotation is sensed, the ASD relay de-enegises. Cranking the engine is enough to keep the ASD relay energised.
 
#39 ·
This makes sense if there is no p/n ground present..
I would identify c3-38 (DG/OR), strip back the insulation in a convenient place and attach a ground jumper wire and see if it will crank. My money says it will.
 
#41 ·
Check ASD relay.. didn't you say the fuel pump runs when the key is turned on?