Hemi Truck Club banner
101 - 116 of 116 Posts
Dammit didn’t even think to try that one. That’s a good ? Needs to be checked for sure to see. If it won’t do it backwards then it’s most likely in the trans. The load is very little and not much speed either I think the test can be done on a decent road somewhere.

The knock sensors were ok the bank 2 sensor spiked around 1.8 at times where bank 1 stayed around .65 but that’s not really enough to trigger any timing pull for the most part
 
Would sufficient test be to put in reverse and power brake up to were it stumbles? I'm thinking it doesn't stumble in p/n because there isn't any load.
 
What throws me in a different direction is he stated that it would do it moving it from such a low speed and that it sometimes stalls. I had a LS3 so this exact thing after the owner put E3 spark plugs in it with not flagging any codes...knock sensors would be an easy check.
 
How does it run wot?
 
Discussion starter · #106 ·
I have had the truck since November 2015. It had a blown engine when i got it. Installed a used motor and had some ground issues after getting it running. It would set random codes for the MAP and IAT. I had installed several additional grounds (throttle body, coils, block to body and battery to body), but it wasnt until I removed and cleaned the two at the back of the cylinder heads the problems went away. The truck has run fine until the last 6 months or so when it started acting up.

To update everyone. The following have been replaced, cam sensor , crank sensor, O2 sensors, knock sensors, MAP sensor , IAT, coils, wires, plug boots, 16 plugs (stock Champion), injectors. Tried three different APPS sensors, three different PCMs, three different throttle bodies.

WOT it runs fine, if you mash the pedal down more than 1/4 or so it does fine, no hesitation.

As for it acting up in reverse, I will try that this morning and report back.
 
I have had the truck since November 2015. It had a blown engine when i got it. Installed a used motor and had some ground issues after getting it running. It would set random codes for the MAP and IAT. I had installed several additional grounds (throttle body, coils, block to body and battery to body), but it wasnt until I removed and cleaned the two at the back of the cylinder heads the problems went away. The truck has run fine until the last 6 months or so when it started acting up.

To update everyone. The following have been replaced, cam sensor , crank sensor, O2 sensors, knock sensors, MAP sensor , IAT, coils, wires, plug boots, 16 plugs (stock Champion), injectors. Tried three different APPS sensors, three different PCMs, three different throttle bodies.

WOT it runs fine, if you mash the pedal down more than 1/4 or so it does fine, no hesitation.

As for it acting up in reverse, I will try that this morning and report back.
That Truck has a good owner, I know a few people who would of scrapped it after all that.
 
Unfortunately new parts are not always good parts.. You did find high fuel rail pressure (62psi). Normal pressure is 58 psi +2/-0. What do your fuel trims look like? But my gut says there is something not right with the can sensor/wiring. I know I'm quilty of pully on the wires when removing the sensor and am sure others do the same. You might unplug the sensor and see how it affects the engine as a test.
 
Discussion starter · #109 ·
Apologies for not posting the results yesterday. Yes, it does the same thing in reverse.

I had mentioned the slightly high fuel pressure to Keith on Friday. My gauge is really old so I figured as long as it was within 10% it should be ok. He advised it was close enough that it shouldn't be causing any issue.

According to Keith the fuel trims are within acceptable levels.
 
This is reaching a bit. On the driverside just behind the TB there are two vacuum lines plugged in. One for the brake booster and the other for the purge valve. Try removing them and plugging the manifold.
The hard plastic lines get brittle and can leak. Plus it is possible to suck fuel with a bad purge valve causing a stumble.
 
I would go back to basics... remove all the plugs keeping them in order . Looking for damage and discoloration. Perform a compression check. Inspect inspect inspect .... assemble using dielectric grease on all electric connections. Making sure none of the pins have been pushed back.
 
Reading the HP TIRE Thread, got me wonder , if there could be a issue like that here , an odd size tire or a gear change that's throwing something off.........I'm just trying to think outside the box, because it seams like everything in the box isn't the issue.
 
I hope this gets figured out, I hate to see problems like this....It's has got to be hard on you.
 
I hope this gets figured out, I hate to see problems like this....It's has got to be hard on you.
Totally agree, it has to be something simple..
 
101 - 116 of 116 Posts