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Can you tell if it is a bottom end knock or valve train noise. I would pull a plug out of each hole and see if one of the spark plugs point at a specific cylinder. Once you identify a cylinder . I'd remove the valve cover and inspect the valve spring and push rods on the cylinder. If ever looks good then do a compression check to compare it to the other cylinders. Burning oil is not a good induction and you might want to use a bore scope and inspect the piston. With only 900 miles this all should fall on the builder. Let us know what you find. If possible post a video of the knock.
 
1st, welcome aboard,2nd, smoke like a diesel, of light smoke, knock does it get louder as you rev, or does it stay at the same volume?3rd did you build it, if so have you built anything prior? . @ 900 miles on a rebuild it's one of two scenarios,assembly or broken parts. Follow what Greg(Redtruck-Va) has layed out(I know it's spelled wrong) and that will be a good starting point. But keep in mind without more information, or actually seeing and hearing what you are, it will be hard to find the issue........that being said we will do our best to help
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
thanks for making me feel at home everyone! ive torn down the engine 2 spun bearings rod bearings. i was told it had been rebuilt, i traded for it with the knock, but it has new heads,timing stuff,like chain and guides and gears. but the bottom end wasnt messed with, why who knows. so crank is bad not going to have it turned just getting another one.having the block bored and new cam bearings installed. so thats where im at
 
Sounds like you are on your game. The only thing you might consider is if you ever intend to use power adders is to go ahead and install forged pistons.
 
Along the same line of thought. ARP head studs cost about twice as much as head bolts. They are superior to head bolts and can be reused were head bolts are not. Same with cometic gaskets, far superior to standard gaskets and can be reused. Felpro also recently has come out with a MLS gasket, but I've personally haven't use theirs.
 
Additionally, cometic gaskets can be bought from .030" to .125" thick. With generally thought .078 being thickest that should be used. .030" is stock I believe for our hemi's, my heads are milled .020". I use .040" to party compensate for the milling. This allows you either push a little for higher or lower cr.
 
The procedure to use them is to clean the mating surfaces with alcohol. Do not contaminate the gaskets surface. It has a very thin coating on it. If you are reusing the gasket wash the gasket using a mild dish soap. If the surface is damaged the replace it. I found this on the Web so take it for what it's worth.
 
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