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Discussion starter · #84 ·
I have a bit of a problem and would like to see if you can help me troubleshoot.
I give the truck a little gas (maybe 15-20% throttle, not getting into boost but close to zero vacuum) i let off the gas but the motor keeps acceleraring. I had to throw it into neutral, one time the revs came down, another time i had to shut the truck off then turn it back on because the revs kept up going up. By the way, when the revs do come down there is a lean pop out the exhaust.
Has anyone ever heard of something luke this? Is that something that could be fixed with tuning or is it something wrong with the computer or throttle body? There are no codes
 
No that is the throttle run on I have had before and fixed thru tuning. You need to back the throttle sensitivity down in the tune thru cmr not the handheld setting and change a few parameters in the airflow tables and it will stop doing that. You may also get a kind of auto cruise control too from this issue. I have had this first hand and fixed it.
 
Discussion starter · #89 ·
You know, it is funny that you mentioned reducing throttle sensitivity as i had been thinking (before this new ordeal) of telling AJ, whenever i bring it in, to reduce the "touchiness" of the gas pedal/throttle as the truck feels very "jumpy". I just lightly depress the pedal and the truck wants to take off
 
Well done... looking forward to seeing what it takes to have good street manners..
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
Good news....bad news....
The good:
I test fitted the calipers, rotor on to the new spindle and it fits perfect, i also put the wheel on a it clears the caliper with room to spare.
The bad:
When i started the truck this morning i heard an exhaust leak :( started chasing it, then i spotted what seemed to be 2 loose header bolts. I tried to tighten them, but as soon as i tried to turn them, i felt it :( the threads were stripped. ****ity, ****ing ****!
I had heard of header bolts breaking in the head, but this time the thread stripped. I can fix it, it is not a problem what greatly concerns me is that this setup has not really seen any real heat (being boosted) and if it effed up with me grandma-driving it what is going to happen once i start driving harder??
The header bolts i used were steel, should i use a softer material? Galvanized? But then if it breaks again it is going to be more difficult as i would have to fight to get the broken bolt out of the head, no? which header bolts (material) are you guys using?
 
Max, I've not heard of the header bolts stripping before. But I'd recommend using studs to get maximum holding power.
 
Yes, I understood the threads in the heads stripped. Studs screw in deeper and don't stress the threads while the stud is being screwed in. Also there are aftermarket heads that can be used on either side by having the exhaust mounting holes double drilled and tapped. By drilling the extra holes and using them would give much more holding power.
 
Discussion starter · #96 ·
ooohhhh SON OF A BIOTCH!!!
I found what the problem is...BOY AM I PISSED RIGHT NOW.
So i tried to clean the threads and when trying to do so I felt that the tap needed a little more effort than usual so I stopped about 1/4 of an inch in. Started doing some more research on bolt thread and boom! I have the wrong bolts! I am using 5/16" instead of 8mm (which now I know is 8mm)
If I remember correctly, I ordered the 5/16 from Summit Racing which had them listed as the correct ones for the truck.
Next weekend I will remove the headers and see if the threads can be fixed or if I am going to need to helicoil them or what.
Dudes, I am soooo pissed right now, and at the same time surprised because I do not remember the 5/16 bolts struggling to go in.
Anyways, wish me luck :(
 
It happens.. I did something similar last week, screwing in a SAE fiting into a 18-1.5 boss. Chasing big or little parts still represents a 50 mile trip... ugh
 
I see 8 mm as being .315" and 3/8" is
375, so I see no reason you couldn't tap them out. I'd be careful not to go too deep.
 
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