Thanks to this site and all the friendly and helpfull people here; Mr Hemi gave me permission to post pic's and details of a complete build for a supercharged Hemi engine. We will take you through the step by step process. From pulling the motor, to the final tuning. Starting tomorrow morning at 9 am, we will be tearing into the truck. We will give you a day by day post and pic's of the truck in progress. Currently, there are 11 other on going project vehicles that are being worked on. Somedays my truck will have to take a back burner. I want to take the time right now, to thank the many people on this site, that have answered all my many questions and make this happen.
SharaDon Performance /Complete supercharged engine build
6 reading
Hemidup
641 - 660 of 1,378 Posts
Joined
·
447 Posts
Joined
·
1,371 Posts
You forgot about #4. Disconnect the TCM from the PCM. LOL We are trying to keep the truck as close to stock form as possible. The 727/518 would be the easy way to do it. We are confident by changing out the TC will solve the issues at hand. We should now soon.
Joined
·
124 Posts
Trans #3 and converter #2, are in and works great. Trans temp never went over 75C.
I survived a 4x4 hit to about 90mph.
![Image]()
it spins all 4 in first.
I survived a 4x4 hit to about 90mph.
Joined
·
124 Posts
I forgot about the martin sain conveter Jerry had in it last yr. So this one makes 3.
Trans # 2 had a 3600 stall converter that created to much heat. It broke down the fluid and, of course we were testing and abusing it.
The trans temps were 120+ C several times. You could drive down the road and the temps just kept climbing. The 3600 stall was loads of fun, but it cooked the trans. It didn't go into limp mode like the first one, but we knew there was trouble cause it stopped looking for overdrive.
Trans # 2 had a 3600 stall converter that created to much heat. It broke down the fluid and, of course we were testing and abusing it.
The trans temps were 120+ C several times. You could drive down the road and the temps just kept climbing. The 3600 stall was loads of fun, but it cooked the trans. It didn't go into limp mode like the first one, but we knew there was trouble cause it stopped looking for overdrive.
Joined
·
124 Posts
Na, it's not out of control, stays straight.
Joined
·
91 Posts
Once you get the tranny beefed up you're going to start twisting axles and ring gears, lol. Are you using the stock driveshaft still? Steel or aluminum? If so I bet those u-joints are crying for mommy
![Image]()
I'm glad that you're beating the hell out of the stock components so we can see how much they will take before giving it up. I can't imagine what will happen when you crank up the boost.
I'm glad that you're beating the hell out of the stock components so we can see how much they will take before giving it up. I can't imagine what will happen when you crank up the boost.
Joined
·
1,371 Posts
I have the stock, steel drive shafts. There's a math equation about the diameter vs length and we should be okay. I have Bob's (Moe's) driveshaft loop for the rear and we are making one for the front as well. Just in case, if you know what I mean. The new Edge converter is way tighter than the 3600 Continental. After a test drive yesterday the tranny temps stayed in check and never climbed any higher than 78* celcious. The truck launches real hard from a dead stop. The front end lifted hard and Denny thought the truck was going to leap frog, which I'm glad it didn't since we probably would have broke something for sure. The truck pulls strong through 2nd, the top of 3rd seems a little weak. We need more air which means we need more boost. lol I think Paxton will be getting a call soon.
Joined
·
91 Posts
Hit the NOS, dog! Hit the NOS!
I did finally get the pulley off after making a custom puller and backing plate. The backing plate looks like it got shot with a .38 where the puller screw was sitting on it, lol.
What did you use to put the pulley back on? I don't know if I want to risk messing up the threads in the crank by using the old bolt to try to impact it back on or not. I see that there's a special mopar tool for doing it... your thoughts?
I did finally get the pulley off after making a custom puller and backing plate. The backing plate looks like it got shot with a .38 where the puller screw was sitting on it, lol.
What did you use to put the pulley back on? I don't know if I want to risk messing up the threads in the crank by using the old bolt to try to impact it back on or not. I see that there's a special mopar tool for doing it... your thoughts?
Joined
·
1,371 Posts
I can't help you out with that one. Once we pulled the stock one off, we just set it on the back shelf. We took the new 6.1 crank and had a keyway cut into it and installed the ATI damper. Beast or uniball can help you out with that one. Just make sure you use a new crank bolt. They're like $3 from the dealer.
Joined
·
91 Posts
Yeah I have the new crank bolt waiting. I just pulled the cam and the front cam bearing looks like it might have some excessive wear on it. Then again, it might be normal for almost 35k. I took a couple pictures and I'll put them up when I get home so you guys can take a look and tell me what you think. I know they're not supposed to be serviceable anyway but I thought you had Clevite make you some anyway.
641 - 660 of 1,378 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
