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Custom made traction bars!!!

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#62 ·
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#63 ·
If you have your Caltrac design traction bars working good for you. Then keep them. If your having problems getting them to work for you. Then, I would suggest going to a long bar set up. They are effective and very simple traction bars. The balance point of your truck is very important for the proper weight transfer for these bars to work well. They help lift the front of your truck to transfer weight to the rear tires for better traction = better 60'. That's why they're called long bars. :thumb:
 
#65 ·
No power adders, but they still allow LPG conversions? Not that it's a power adder, but still I would think would open the door to a turbo install. After all turbos are common on euro cars... Just thinking out loud....
 
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#66 ·
charged392 said:
in your case i would say just go a tad infront of the leaf spring perch if you go half way it will likely be to much weight transfer to the tires resulting in bogging from load off the line. the bars will also be crazy long.

They are called long bars diesel trucks run them to keep axle still.Lazersmith is one company that makes them but they are crazy priced and overly built IMO.
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Do you still drive your truck on the street, if so any problems with the suspension or a very harsh ride? Was pointed out to me by Greg that I need to make sure the geometry is not too far off, or it will cause binding of the suspension.

What diameter/wall thickness tubing are you using?
 
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#67 ·
Ghost03hemi said:
If you have your Caltrac design traction bars working good for you. Then keep them. If your having problems getting them to work for you. Then, I would suggest going to a long bar set up. They are effective and very simple traction bars. The balance point of your truck is very important for the proper weight transfer for these bars to work well. They help lift the front of your truck to transfer weight to the rear tires for better traction = better 60'. That's why they're called long bars. :thumb:
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I do have caltracs and they work ok for what I need them. However I didn't construct the front mount properly and that leaves a little room in the spring mount for the leaf spring to move sideways, I can hear a 'thunk' :) when taking a turn at low speeds. Plus they rattle a lot.

Constructing these long bars would be easier for me than redoing the front mounts of the caltracs. I can weld but don't have access to a mill or lathe, the front bars I can to only with welding, to properly reconstruct the caltracs front mount I need the mill/lathe.
 
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#68 ·
Redtruck-VA said:
No power adders, but they still allow LPG conversions? Not that it's a power adder, but still I would think would open the door to a turbo install. After all turbos are common on euro cars... Just thinking out loud....
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You are not allowed to do any work on you lpg installation, only certified mechanics can, it comes with serial numbers, certificates, yearly instpection, 5 yearly pressure testing of the tank,...

In theory power adders you can do if it's done by a certified mechanic with all the paperwork, but they don't exist in Belgium. That leaves only the manufacturer that can do it.
 
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Discussion starter · #69 ·
If I remember correctly I use 1.25" .120 wall DOM tubing very strong pipe yes you can go thicker but I am yet to bend mine even sliding off my brothers driveway grinding the bar bottoms lol. I use 5/8 Heims or 3/4 Heims for big trucks with the left and right thread bungs to match.

I have absolutely zero bind at all in susp I drove all the way to Huntsville Alabama around 800 miles one way issue free.
Your lowered so the bars would be in a straight line almost exactly like mine the stock ride height trucks would likely feel a little stiffness but I bet it's less than caltracs slapping the spring while driving down the street lol.

In your case I would say a bar the same length as mine will be sufficient especially with your added weight.
 
#70 ·
Bought all the parts I need to make this setup, only question remains what length should the bars be? Any suggestions how to determine the length?

Also while reading some people suggested that ladder bars would be even better than these single bars, they are also relatively simple to make. My question is, is it worth the extra hassle or am I overthinking things?

Found this drawing on numerous sites traction vs ladder:

Image
 
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Discussion starter · #71 ·
Your overthinking it. Ladder bars are very very rigid driving down the street big lifted trucks use ladders a lot to keep axle in place.

The way I figured out my center was jack the truck up and literally balance it on 2 jack stands. In your case that will likely be way to much length and weight transfer. I would suggest making your bars the same length as mine and mount to your frame wherever that may end up after mounting to your axle.

I have researched this to no end and talked to many racers. It's simple it works perfectly and it's a set and forget system. Your wheel hop will be gone for sure tire spin is a whole other issue the truck will transfer weight back of you have radials it will likely hook and go.
 
#73 · (Edited)
Agreed, or a pivot mount in the front like a shackle.
Or a variation of a pivot such as this.

 
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#75 ·
Single bar it is then! Thanks for the info!
 
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#77 ·
Ghost03hemi said:
Humm.... I like that. :thumb::thumb:
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There are a lot of variations of a simple shackle, one being a boss welded into the frame and just side plates used to connect the ladder. But as stated no need to re-invent the wheel...
 
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#78 ·
Too many opposing forces with ladder bars. Springs are designed to have the axle stay in a linear plane up and down. Using ladder bars force the axle to move in a radius and therefore the farther it moves the more it binds the springs which is why they are so much stiffer and "rigid" feeling. Traction bars allow the axle to wrap enough to keep suspension travel but they control the wrap to keep a safe pinion/drive shaft angle. Ladder bars are used a lot in trucks that are lifted using blocks because the block acts like a lever. The axle can move farther before the binding pressure from the springs stops it. To keep streetability, especially on a lowered truck, traction bars is the way to go :thumb:
 
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#80 ·
How much would it be for a set of bars shipped to Iowa to fit a stock ride height 2500? Mounting brackets included in the quote. Thanks!
 
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HemiFun05
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