Putting up some pics of mods done on the STS turbo kit to get this subject started.
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Turbo Mods and Troubleshooting
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Ghost03hemi
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50mm w/g, 4" V bands with flanges on order. Should be here at the end of next week.
Have found out that the best spot for the w/g pipe to start at is at the bend just before the exhaust flow enters the turbine housing. Just like the STS set up. Will be putting a w/g supply pipe back into that position on the turbo manifold. It will join together at the present w/g pipe before going into the 50mm w/g. Making sure there is no w/g flow issues this time.:thumb:
Going to use 4" aluminum dryer hose for the basic shape of the bends on the turbo down pipe.
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Have found out that the best spot for the w/g pipe to start at is at the bend just before the exhaust flow enters the turbine housing. Just like the STS set up. Will be putting a w/g supply pipe back into that position on the turbo manifold. It will join together at the present w/g pipe before going into the 50mm w/g. Making sure there is no w/g flow issues this time.:thumb:
Going to use 4" aluminum dryer hose for the basic shape of the bends on the turbo down pipe.
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Also decided to remove more of the divider out of the exhaust turbine housing. Mainly to give it a little more room for the exhaust to get around the divider.
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Hummm..... Just have to figure out a way to build a upper bracket that will hold the turbo weight. Needs to have some clearance for hoses and stuff. The radiator tank hose is in the way again........:facepalm: Have to do something with the heater hoses too.
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Looking at these areas for the bracket mounting points.
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:thumb: Going to try and use all five mounting holes. Going to tap out the egr hole too.
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I wouldn't go that crazy stu the two holes near by should suffice
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If it will help stop the turbo manifold from cracking again. Gonna go crazy and build it. Also, adding a down pipe and exhaust system brackets and hangers too.
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Ok, think I did finally figure out an decent bracket that seems to clear everything. And the bracket still allows me to have the clearance to remove the manifold. This is just tack welded and need to add the lower connection bars. Was this basically what you where taking about Darrell and Keith?
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Here's the 50mm compared to the STS 38mm w/g. With the reduction of back pressure between the turbo and the engine(1.15 a/r exhaust turbine housing). The 50mm w/g should do just fine. No more need for a vwg. Just a bypass/bov. Test comparison between the two using the same boost spring. The 50mm is much more responsive to psi change than the 38mm w/g. Plus, all of my other w/g springs fit too. I like that.:thumb:
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Flux core wire with an old mig welder. Never said I could weld good. Just barley good enough to hold it together for a short time..........:facepalm::sad:
When I figure out what I want. Will let a real professional welder, weld it together.:thumb:
Did surprised myself by welding thin s/s to metal tubing with a mig welder that doesn't work that well. It just took allot of grinding and re-welding.:blink:
When I figure out what I want. Will let a real professional welder, weld it together.:thumb:
Did surprised myself by welding thin s/s to metal tubing with a mig welder that doesn't work that well. It just took allot of grinding and re-welding.:blink:
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:thumb::thumb:
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It's a "poor mans" turbo manifold.
Put together with some thin s/s header tubing and mild steel exhaust pipe. Basically, just a cheap testing turbo manifold......:ermm:
Put together with some thin s/s header tubing and mild steel exhaust pipe. Basically, just a cheap testing turbo manifold......:ermm:
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It's garage good may not look pretty but it works :thumb:
I have a snap-on mighty mig that I am getting the tig torch for it will be a hard start heliarc but it will be good enough to weld aluminum if I need it to I also have te same wire feed welder stu is using it works but a mm140A will work alot better
I have a snap-on mighty mig that I am getting the tig torch for it will be a hard start heliarc but it will be good enough to weld aluminum if I need it to I also have te same wire feed welder stu is using it works but a mm140A will work alot better
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You shouldn't have any problem welding steel or stainless for that matter Keith. However aluminum is a whole new beast, unless you have A/C current settings, and high frequency continuos setting it's going to be really hard to do, and it definitely won't look pretty. I'm not saying you can't DC weld aluminum, it's possible, but it general only used when seeking deep penetration on thick material and you plan to buff the weld completely off once you're finished. Other then that, AC is the best way to go by far. If you do decide to go with it make sure you use a stainless steel brush and brush the heck out before every weld. Alum. oxide starts to cover the raw material very quickly, and it melts at around 5000*F where raw alum. is at 1215*F, that's why you will need high frequency. If not then the filler rod will only melt on stop of the base and will not be homogenized. Unless you have high heat by UHP Helium ($$$) with high amperage generally over 200 which would be your limit with a gas cool torch. I don't want to sound boastful, I just don't want you to have expectations of capability, spend all the money only to find out you're still limited.
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Stu, I'm not sure what wire you are using, however I assume probably standard. See if you can buy a small spool of 309L .045 flux core. It would really help your welds not to break. Standard flux core has carbon which will rust fairly quickly on the thin header tubing. 309L would be the ticket. Although it might be dual shield. Call me if you have any questions. I can call my friends at Airgas and help you out tremendously on the price if need be.It's a "poor mans" turbo manifold.
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Welder has amp settings and charts to help get close with material and rod thickness guides
Not looking for pretty just function
Not looking for pretty just function
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With this present manifold, that's all I'm looking for too. My welder is an old Miller Cricket 115v Flux Core Wire Welder. Max size is .035 f/c wire. For now, it will do.
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