Nitrous and Water/Meth used together. - Hemi Truck Club
 
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:59 AM   #1
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Very curious to see what your thoughts would be on this subject Jay.

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Old 12-19-2012, 07:42 AM   #2
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If you can get the w/m, nos, and boost, to play together well, it works great. You would need a strong, forged motor, and a VERY good tuner!
For example, if nozzle placement is wrong, it could be possible to freeze the water. Below is a fairly good article on the subject.

http://www.alcoholinjectionsys...em/article_info.html
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Old 12-19-2012, 01:34 PM   #3
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I use both. I don't tune for w/m meaning I don't add timing like some folks do just incase the pump fails or jets plug up.
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:13 PM   #4
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So, if running at little NOS with the W/M. There wouldn't be a need for the front mount after cooler with a turbo?
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:51 PM   #5
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I got rid of all my intercooler/aftercooler items and pipe the blower straight to the TB. All my boost is bypassed while in vaccum so I have no issues with high AIT's driving round town. My W/M is turned on at 4 psi and ramps up till max.

For me adding in n2o I only use a small amount for additional cooling. I run a 2 stage usually with a 50 shot out of the hole at 3000 rpm and the 2nd stage 30 shot turning on at 4200 with the 2nd stage shutting off at 5800 before the shift.

BTW, Using W/M basically steam cleans you pistons. When I tore my engine down due to a burnt exhaust valve the pistons dang near looked new.

Now I have to figure out why my pistons weren't harmed but my exhaust valve looked like you hit it with a cutting torch. Afterall aluminum melts around 1300* and SS around 2400.

Thinking maybe I retarded too much timing which would help cool the piston, but raise the exh valve temps.
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Old 12-19-2012, 03:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hemidup:
Using W/M basically steam cleans you pistons. When I tore my engine down due to a burnt exhaust valve the pistons dang near looked new.

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Old 12-19-2012, 04:16 PM   #7
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And maybe Superjay will chime in about issue's with burnt exhaust valves.
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:38 PM   #8
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A boosted motor makes for high cylinder pressures, and intense heat. A Hemi cylinder configuration, with its opposing valves, verses in line valves, doesn't benefit from the cooling of the intake valve. An exhaust valve gets rid of its heat, mostly through the valve seat, and secondary through the valve guide, and the rocker arm. Narrow valve seats are great for flow, and performance, but death for the ex valve. Seat width should be increased to allow more heat transfer. Also, chrome plated stainless steal, sodium filled, or titanium valves should be used.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:42 PM   #9
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Just researching, if I think it's worth it. Use a single 30/50 shot for the intake cooling(aftercooler removed), turbo spool up, and the little performance gain too. But, only if it's possible with my present engine set-up.
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Old 12-19-2012, 07:32 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Superjay:
A boosted motor makes for high cylinder pressures, and intense heat. A Hemi cylinder configuration, with its opposing valves, verses in line valves, doesn't benefit from the cooling of the intake valve. An exhaust valve gets rid of its heat, mostly through the valve seat, and secondary through the valve guide, and the rocker arm. Narrow valve seats are great for flow, and performance, but death for the ex valve. Seat width should be increased to allow more heat transfer. Also, chrome plated stainless steal, sodium filled, or titanium valves should be used.
The exhaust valve seat made it through the havock. If I was in it for a second or 2 more, I'm sure the valve stem would have been burnt in 2 causing a catostrphic engine failure instead of the fat lip my engine endured.

Superjay....What are your thoughts that I may be running to safe and should increase my timing? Maybe the unburnt fuel charge with the exh valve opened caused it? IDK
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