Installed LT Headers, now my truck won't idle! - Hemi Truck Club
 
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:08 PM   #1
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Exclamation Installed LT Headers, now my truck won't idle!

My truck was running fine before I installed the headers. I had an exhaust leak and 2 broken bolts on the right rear most cylinder. So I installed some Pacesetter LT's. Ceramic Coated, MOPAR Head Gaskets with a light coat of copper gasket sealer, vibe-lock bolts all torqued to spec and then re-torqued after 5 heat cycles. No movement. I've tightened down everything and I'm using band clamps at everything back to the Y pipe. Front O2's are in the collectors and the rear O2's are extended (carefully soldered and heat shrinked) and then the Rears are in non-foulers with steel wool.

I've cleaned the IAT Sensor, cleaned the throttle body, cleaned the EGR Valve (which is only 4000 miles old) and I've reset the ECM. I cleaned out the PCV Valve but it seemed to be in good working condition and the fact that it wasn't an issue before seems to make it a non-issue. I checked the vacuum tube from the TB to the brake booster and the cap on the booster is good. I haven't done a full inspection of the two lines running to the evap? but I don't know why they would fail instantly after doing the headers since they weren't touched. I have a SuperChips 3815 and I've tried everything on stock and everything on the 91 tune.

Here's a video of what it does at idle.



I have to hold the the gas and the brake when I come to a top light to keep the idle at about 800-900rpm to keep her running. Once I get it moving it runs smooth through the gears and no problem until I hit that next stop light. I've gotta give it a little of the skinny pedal on start up as well.


I appreciate any recommendations and help. I'm considering that maybe I just need a custom tune but I don't know where to start on that one. I'm living in south/central Ohio. Any help on that would be appreciated as well.

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Old 06-07-2016, 08:36 PM   #2
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Do you have a performance cam installed?
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Old 06-07-2016, 09:23 PM   #3
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I wish I did. This is the stock cam. Sure sounds like it's cammed though. haha
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:15 PM   #4
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How long ago did this start?
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Old 06-08-2016, 06:06 AM   #5
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Do you have any codes?
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Old 06-08-2016, 07:04 AM   #6
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Just installed them on Wednesday of last week. The truck has been doing is since I drove it to the exhaust shop to get the exhaust welded back on. Drove it there without the rear O2 sensors in because there were no bungs, so I got codes for that.

After everything was welded in. I installed the rear O2's (no cats) and reset the ecm. Still having issues with idle I drove it home to work on it.

Current codes after a couple days of driving to and from work.

P0404 - EGR range fault (this valve is almost brand new and didn't have an issue before the headers.

P0172 - Bank 1 too rich

P0175 - Bank 2 too rich

P0300 - Random / multiple misfire
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Old 06-08-2016, 08:44 AM   #7
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you sure you have the O2s plugged in properly ? Also, you ruined those rear O2s by cutting the wires and soldering them. Those wires are stainless steel and as such, won't solder properly. You need plug & play harness extenders. Splicing wires is no bueno
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Old 06-08-2016, 09:34 AM   #8
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Just mention a couple of things. First, the rear sensors are different than the front. Did the sensors get installed correctly? two, are they plugged in? The shop could have removed them to weld and didn't reinstall. Third, I have never cut the wire between the sensor and it's plug, but I have made the supporting wiring harness they plug into. I don't believe this has anything to do with the headers, it's a sensor problem.
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Old 06-08-2016, 05:57 PM   #9
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It's a sensor issue or possibly a bad computer from the welding. If they didn't dissconnect the battery it's possible it got a spike and ruined it. First confirm the sensors are in and good to go. If the wired were cut get new sensors and start from there.
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Old 06-08-2016, 06:01 PM   #10
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Definitely got the sensors on the right way. Everything was marked, and I've changed O2's on this truck a few times so I can identify the rear and the front just looking at them.

Didn't know about reference air through the wires. This is the one instance that apparently soldering ISN'T the best route. haha. The worst part is that the Pacesetter instructions actually recommend soldering the wires. All that said, I don't believe the rear O2's are the ones throwing the codes. I think it's the fronts. I say this because I only had to extend one of the rear O2's and I'm getting a rich reading on both banks. And I believe those error codes come from the front O2's.

I'm curious if cleaning the front O2's is possible. I'm wondering if the ceramic and other contaminants cooking off caused them to get coated in something and malfunction. I might just buy a couple new fronts. Do our trucks still not like Bosch sensors?
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