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Old 01-11-2019, 07:56 PM   #1
Chris
 
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Changing A Truck Timing Cover To A Car Timing Cover

Here's all my pictures and some small issues I ran into doing this swap. Overall it was actually pretty straight forward. The truck is a 2003 4wd, my understanding is there is some slight suspension differences on the 06+ trucks, mainly for the alternator clearance, nothing that can't be dealt with easily.

There isn't any specific performance benefits from this swap, it's mainly just for personal preference. I never liked how the truck motors looked with the big a/c and alternator sticking up top. The car cover really just looks cleaner in my opinion. There is the option of potentially using superchargers designed for the car motor, since the trucks don't have the best aftermarket support. My biggest reason for doing the swap is much better clearance using the eagle truck manifold I am swapping out very soon. If you want to get SUPER technical, the car balancer is smaller diameter then the truck one, so it would seem like putting on an underdrive pulley, so you might gain 5hp from this swap

My truck already has a few mods, I have a hydro booster for the brakes, so my power steering setup will be a little different than stock. I already had an E-fan, this will need done also since the car water pump does not have a threaded stud for the clutch fan.

Truck has a 7 rib belt, car has a 6 rib belt. I used a stock length 6 rib belt, with A/C it was 82.5"

Parts list- I got most of my parts used, junkyards, forums, classifieds, etc..Should be abe to use any parts from 05-08 charger, 300, and magnums with the 5.7 or possibly 6.1 hemi

Timing Cover (duh)
A/C compressor, custom lines
Alternator
Water Pump
Balancer
Belt
Radiator hoses
E-fan and controller
Tensioner, idler pulley
Power steering pump and remote mount reservoir
LX car heater pipes that run under the intake manifold (depending on application, more on that later)
Various hoses and fittings, 4 gauge wire to extend the alternator charging cable
Mounting hardware. Most of the truck timing cover bolts can be reused, I didn't get an exact comparison of all the lengths needed but they looked about the same.
Gaskets, thermostat housing, water pump, crank seal and timing cover. The timing cover gasket is the same, but the water pump has a different pattern

Harmonic balancer
Nothing special but the car balancer is smaller and a different length


Alternator
Three mounting bolts, M11-1.5x4" long. The truck alternator connector plugs right in, the charging wire does need extended or replaced, it will be too short. On my truck the alternator fit right in, it didn't hit any of the frame. I've heard the 06 frame needs dented around the control arm bracket.



A/C Compressor
4 mounting bolts, same style and size as the Alternator bolts. Truck connector plugged right in. The lines need to be custom made, I haven't got that far yet, I'll update later when I get those made. It mounts with 4 bolts, two going into the timing cover and two going into the block. My original 03 truck block does not have the two block holes drilled and tapped out, the 06 block I have in the truck currently did. These look pretty necessary to bolt the compressor straight so it will take alot of effort to reach in and tap the holes. The compressor fit right in, the only thing I did was grind a little bit off the back mounting hole just so it wouldn't hit the motor mount. The only issue was the oil dipstick was hitting it, I did my best to bend the tube around alittle bit, then bolted the compressor on and tightened it down. That helped push the tube out of the way without kinking it.

Here is the oil dipstick tube and the mounting holes in the block



Water Pump
Just as a reminder, the car water pump gasket is different then the truck. Now the biggest difference is the heater hoses hook up on the top of the water pump and the back of the timing cover, and run under the intake manifold towards the firewall. The LX car uses two metal tubes that run under the manifold and hook up to the hoses. If you are using the 03-08 Ram intake manifold, the heater pipes will NOT work. I tried everything I could but the manifold hits the pipes and won't sit all the way down. I trimmed off fins on the bottom of the manifold and bent the pipes as much as I could, but it still wasn't enough. If you are using a different manifold, you will probably be ok. I test fit the new Eagle Truck manifold with 3/8" spacers and it cleared nicely. So I took a 3/8" NPT heater hose fitting with 5/8" hose nipple on it, and tapped the two hose holes. The hole is just a tad on the loose side so I just added some teflon tape. I recommend doing this before you get the cover mounted to the truck, it's easier to cleanup that way.
Summit sells a 36" heater hose with a 90 degree bend on the end, this worked out perfectly for going into the firewall.
The inlet for the water pump is 1-1/2", so you will need a reducer because the outlet for the radiator is 2". I was able to reuse part of the old upper radiator hose, and part of the lower hose. Made up some adapters to go between them. It was cheaper then buying new hoses.

The upper radiator hose was fairly simple, the radiator is 1-1/2", the thermostat housing is 1-3/4". I used a flexible stainless steel 36" hose with rubber connectors.


Here are the pipes hooked up if you can use them



Here are the two fittings tapped into the heater hose hole



Greg, just for you, I put the springs clamps on here....



Power Steering
I have a hydrobooster setup for the brakes which runs off the power steering. So my setup is different then the typical stock power steering. But it still turned out pretty easily. I used 3/8" compression fittings to hook right into the power steering pump. I found the maximum relief pressure for the two different pumps in the service manual, looks like both the truck and car operate around 1600-1700 psi, so I don't think I should have any issues. The truck uses a pressure sensor, it helps raise the rpms under a high load/low rpm situation like a slow turn. I was able to keep the sensor, I cut it off the truck lines and used the compression fittings to hook it right in line. You can use flared ends, the tool I had doesn't do a good job, and frankly the compression fittings are way easier. If you position the sensor correctly, the wire connector should stretch over and clip right it. If not, you'll have to extend it.
The power steering pump attaches to the driver side head, the 03 truck heads have the provisions for the pump but the holes aren't drilled and tapped for it. So I happened to have a head with the holes already done, I made a template, marked the holes and drilled and tapped them. I forget the exact size of the bolts, but it is a metric thread and you need to drill them 1" deep.
The power steering reservoir is a remote mount. Unless you have a better tank to use, the stock reservoir looks easy enough to use. I don't have that hooked up right now, I'll update the thread as soon as I get that done.






Before...




After





With the future intake manifold...

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Old 01-11-2019, 08:00 PM   #2
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Here's a link to the photo album, a couple extra pics and anything else I'll add in the future

https://www.flickr.com/photos/159420...h/31741878387/
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2003 QCSB "The Mutt"-392 Manley Stroker-Inertia Cam
Eagle Heads and Intake Manifold-
46RE-CRT Billet Manual Valvebody-Edge 3200 convertor
4.56 and Detroit TruTrac-Custom Morimoto Projector Headlights
Tuned by Charged392
Tons of Pics https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums
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Old 01-12-2019, 09:48 AM   #3
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Thank you Chris for putting this info out there.
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Old 01-12-2019, 02:19 PM   #4
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Awesome job Chris. Glad you figured all this stuff out for me!
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:53 PM   #5
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Here are more updated pics. The only thing I have left to complete is to get the main AC line made. I was able to reuse the line going to the condenser fan. The compressor side was pointed in a really bad direction, but I figured I would try to bend it since I couldn't use it anyway. Luckily the line was soft enough I got it bent pretty far back and it reached the fan. I will update again as soon as I get the other AC line made.

Also finished up the power steering reservoir. It was pretty challenging to find a good mounting spot. Does anyone know for sure if this style of perservoir is a gravity fed bottle? Does it have to be above the pump, or could it be lower? But I did finally decide to sandwich it between the efan and the radiator hose. I hate to say it but the easiest way to secure it was with a couple holes, 4 zip ties and a drywall screw The stock LX power steering reservoir doesn't have any good places to mount it without making a pretty extensive bracket. I looked at the stupid engine for 45 minutes trying to find a logical mounting spot that didn't looking like a complete hack job. I tried looking for an aftermarket tank, but prices seem to be around $100+ for a decent metal tank, and that isn't worth it to me at this point. I rerouted the hydrobooster overflow line behind the battery and down the fender and T'd into the line going from the cooler to the reservoir.











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2003 QCSB "The Mutt"-392 Manley Stroker-Inertia Cam
Eagle Heads and Intake Manifold-
46RE-CRT Billet Manual Valvebody-Edge 3200 convertor
4.56 and Detroit TruTrac-Custom Morimoto Projector Headlights
Tuned by Charged392
Tons of Pics https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums
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Old 01-12-2019, 06:59 PM   #6
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Also, any other tips to organize and declutter the engine bay, fire away! I'm starting to get addicted the decluttering under the hood. I think the cold air intake will be going away soon for a simple intake pipe, and I'll mount a smaller windshield washer fluid tank with that extra room. There's still alot of wires near the battery I want to clean up but most of the are necessary and not many ways to reroute them
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2003 QCSB "The Mutt"-392 Manley Stroker-Inertia Cam
Eagle Heads and Intake Manifold-
46RE-CRT Billet Manual Valvebody-Edge 3200 convertor
4.56 and Detroit TruTrac-Custom Morimoto Projector Headlights
Tuned by Charged392
Tons of Pics https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:34 AM   #7
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it's a little late for this but I take a look at the newer trucks and how the Rad and Condenser was moved back to the center for the 09 up Rams Centering those 2 items will make it easier for some of the plumbing of Turbo and Cold air intake routing
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:08 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ric3xrt View Post
it's a little late for this but I take a look at the newer trucks and how the Rad and Condenser was moved back to the center for the 09 up Rams Centering those 2 items will make it easier for some of the plumbing of Turbo and Cold air intake routing
The more I think about that the more I like the idea...
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:16 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ric3xrt View Post
it's a little late for this but I take a look at the newer trucks and how the Rad and Condenser was moved back to the center for the 09 up Rams Centering those 2 items will make it easier for some of the plumbing of Turbo and Cold air intake routing
It doesn’t seem like there is much room to do that, the radiator and condenser are sandwiched in there pretty good. I would think you would have to get all new stuff that is smaller then the stock items for sure. Unless you were able to completely move the condenser fan to a new location and then center the radiator in the opening. Maximumrisk was looking st this last week, I think he decided it was too expensive
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2003 QCSB "The Mutt"-392 Manley Stroker-Inertia Cam
Eagle Heads and Intake Manifold-
46RE-CRT Billet Manual Valvebody-Edge 3200 convertor
4.56 and Detroit TruTrac-Custom Morimoto Projector Headlights
Tuned by Charged392
Tons of Pics https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:25 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YeahItsAHemi View Post
Here's a link to the photo album, a couple extra pics and anything else I'll add in the future

https://www.flickr.com/photos/159420...h/31741878387/
Thanks for adding the album. Got some ides on the center console job you did. Great job.
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