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Old 08-12-2019, 12:05 PM   #1
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Boosting a 426

Thoughts on boosting a 6.1 based 426 stroker? Procharged on 12-14#’s. Can it handle it or are the cylinder walls getting to thin?

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Old 08-12-2019, 02:32 PM   #2
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It can handle it easily. Unless, if you bored the tare out of the 6.1 block. What's the bore, stroke and static compression?
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Old 08-12-2019, 02:58 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Ghost03hemi View Post
It can handle it easily. Unless, if you bored the tare out of the 6.1 block. What's the bore, stroke and static compression?
For once I agree with Stu. I don"t know what he is basing his opinion on but my 5.7 stroker (397) has had no issues running [email protected] 6500. There are several stroker motors on the forum running 14+ psi. Driving a supercharger on a serpentine belt above 10 psi is your challenge.
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Old 08-12-2019, 03:31 PM   #4
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Haven't got that far yet. This 6.1 block just fell in my lap a few weeks ago throwing a major curve ball in my 5.7 build. Luckily I hadn't pulled the trigger on the 5.7 kit yet. The 6.1 block/heads are at the machine shop now getting checked out. Still haven't picked a vendor yet for parts either which brings up a whole different headache. Arrington, MMX, Inertia???? Just want to start out making sure I'm not crazy for wanting to do a boosted 6.1 426. Most of the kits are very similar in bore and stroke. 4.080 stroke and 4.065/4.080 bore. I dont want to lose the oil squirters on the 6.1. though. Heard sometimes they need to be machined out do to clearances?
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Old 08-12-2019, 03:36 PM   #5
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Yep. Machining a mounting plate for a cog system already.
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Old 08-12-2019, 03:58 PM   #6
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Yep. Machining a mounting plate for a cog system already.
You will be amazed at the performance gain you will get using a cog drive. IMO, it's really a big deal and you won't regret it. I basically used my original mounting plate and cut the area the sc bolted to, leaving the rest that bolted to the engine. Then made 1" pipe spacers and bought a common mustang SC mounting plate (cheap) and bolted it onto the spacers. This moved the SC forward a 1-1/2" forward. Used a 6" diameter x 3" cog pulley on a ati balancer. Used a 3" diameter cog on the SC. Mounted a top and bottom pulley to act as guides/tensioner. Once everything was aligned/shimmed I cut the bottom pulley removing what wasn't used. The belt is relativey loose and is the original test belt I installed during assembly.
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Old 08-12-2019, 04:35 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Redtruck-VA View Post
You will be amazed at the performance gain you will get using a cog drive. IMO, it's really a big deal and you won't regret it. I basically used my original mounting plate and cut the area the sc bolted to, leaving the rest that bolted to the engine. Then made 1" pipe spacers and bought a common mustang SC mounting plate (cheap) and bolted it onto the spacers. This moved the SC forward a 1-1/2" forward. Used a 6" diameter x 3" cog pulley on a ati balancer. Used a 3" diameter cog on the SC. Mounted a top and bottom pulley to act as guides/tensioner. Once everything was aligned/shimmed I cut the bottom pulley removing what wasn't used. The belt is relativey loose and is the original test belt I installed during assembly.
I'm basically machining a duplicate mounting plate and cutting them both with about 5" of overlap then bolting them together with the same 1.5" spacers. Seems like Brute Speed has all the cog pulleys I need.
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Old 08-12-2019, 08:10 PM   #8
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Arocketman has a boosted 426 and its fine. I ran my 392 on 24+ psi by accident one pass and it held also hahaha
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Old 08-13-2019, 03:50 PM   #9
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Arocketman has a boosted 426 and its fine. I ran my 392 on 24+ psi by accident one pass and it held also hahaha







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Old 08-16-2019, 02:37 PM   #10
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with the 6.1s keep the bore as close to stock as you can, a lot of 6.1s get thin when you get to 4.08, I had one here that was .100+/- .01 on #'s 3,5,7,2,6,&8 all on the thrust side. I told the guy I won't build that thing for a boosted engine with 4+ stroke crank not @ the 16-20lbs he wanted to throw at it. ..if he would of wanted 3.72-3.79 stroke, I'd do it,less side loading longer rod cylindes stay rounder.....soooooooooo he went else where.
all the big name Hemi guys sell good well thought out kits, only real difference is the price point.
Oilers become an issue with 4.08+ crank and big rod bolts.....
If it were me and I was dead set on Boosted 420-426 Ci I'd sell the 6.1 block and get a new BGE block and start there. with the BGE block your at 4.09 bore to start, and the added .4 of deck ht(9.28 vs 9.24) gives you better piston stability. the bores are .170-.325 thick on a stock bore BGE the SRT392 blocks(2011-2016) are .170-.250 thick so right off the bat your going to get better ring seal with the higher pressure....I've seen it a few times with 420-430CI 6.1s builds they make 50-75 less Hp than similar BGE build ,same cam profile same boost levels (16-22) the higher the boost the more power drop off . the 6.1s just don't seal as good as the BGE blocks when you get into higher boost levels with the long cranks....same with the eagle 5.7 vs the 03-08 5.7 eagle block bores are paper thin.
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