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392 stroker w/ blower & T56 magnum

5K views 34 replies 10 participants last post by  SUPER BEE 
#1 ·
Hi guys, been taking a break from the forums for awhile as my summer was invested in the next iteration of build for my 2003 QC 2wd hemi. Inspired by my hurt 545rfe behind what was a cammed pre-eagle 5.7 hemi with Paxton novi 1000 blower, I decided to bite the bullet and do it once, right and unique. This is the “Snotrocket”, powered by a fully forged and studded 5.7 based 392 stroker w/ ported eagle heads, boost cam from MMX, Paxton novi 1200 and meth injection all in front of an LS based t56 magnum! Home built, and asides from finalizing the cooling system, right about ready to tear up the pavement.

The build started by tearing the engine and transmission out of my 03, saving some accessories bolts off it but that’s about it for reuse on the new engine.

From a fresh 05 block, I assembled the motor using a Manley stroker crank, Manley forged rods with ARP 2000s, and custom diamond pistons cc’d for 10.3:1 compression with eagle heads. Next some eagle heads received a valve job and porting topped off by psi 1515 springs. Once the heads and mains were studded out, the timing cover and accessories from an 07 5.7 300C bolted up complete with a Paxton Novi 1200 unit. I picked up this unit as a kit second hand after some quick measurements found it would be a perfect fit in my engine bay.

Next came the transmission. I used a 130T steel flywheel from science friction, McLeod rst twin disk clutch, QuickTime small block mopar to ls t56 bellhousing, and srt 10 ram throwout bearing and master cylinder to complete the assembly.

Driveshaft was built out of 5 inch aluminum, strange engineering chromoly slip yoke and 1350 u joints. Rear end received 4.56 gears

Interior-wise, the clutch-brake-gas pedal assembly from a donor 3rd gen diesel bolted right in, shifter came from hurst and a mopar green shift ball topped it off.

Wiring was pretty straight forward, gutted my engine harness of all wiring associated with the 545rfe, just needed to retain neutral safety wiring (routed now to clutch interlock switch) and backup lamp feed. New reverse lockout solenoid wiring was run. 05 PCM flashed for manual.

Exhaust started with long tube headers then I built a dual exhaust with x-pipe and all 3 inch tubing. Both banks are monitored via dual wide band. Currently exhaust is dumped under the box with no mufflers, but thinking of going with two black widow 250s (or maybe magnaflows to be mainstream...) tipped out through the roll pan.

Hope you enjoy the build pics, and if there’s interest I can provide a parts list. Beyond excited for this to begin tearing up tires!
 

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#2 · (Edited)
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#11 ·
Love that clip.....Have to respect a 140wheel base QC crossing it up around a corner
 
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#8 ·
Good looking setup. It's a beast... we certainly have a variety of boost styles on the forum now....
 
#9 ·
Love it , lots of Pics .
 
#13 ·
Sweet build! Hurry up an get that thing running. Have you been able to get around the CEL that gets thrown just doing the reflash on the 05 PCM? We tried everything but never could get the CEL to go away. Which kept me from getting emissions and tags. Ended up getting lucky and finding an 05 manual PCM. I did the T56 swap from the SRT10. Best mod I’ve done!
 
#15 ·
Minor set back guys, amateur mistake... finally got the cooling situation sorted out, was filling the radiator and coolant began pouring out of the passenger head. Note, 6.1L cometic gaskets do NOT work on a 5.7 block. How I didn’t see this when assembling the engine I don’t know, gasket laid out on a 5.7 block for reference. Now waiting on a new set of 5.7 gaskets from cometic. On the bright side, landed a set of replica srt10 rims to complete the look! Should be ready to fire at the end of the month
 

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#18 ·
Note, 6.1L cometic gaskets do NOT work on a 5.7 block. How I didn’t see this when assembling the engine I don’t know, gasket laid out on a 5.7 block for reference.
I never understood why they have an extra Oil drain back in those 6.1 head gaskets.

When I do the big Bore 5.7s (4.00-4.08) I have to use the 6.1 gaskets. at 1st I put a piece of shim stock in that extra hole that uncovers the coolant passage, dap it with some RTV black.
 
#16 ·
Now that sucks. This is also why I vacuum fill every vehicle I do. If you pull a vacuum means no leaks if won’t pull or hold there is a leak. Now this would not have prevented you from this situation but it would have let you know there was something wrong before adding coolant.
 
#17 ·
I hate it when stuff like that happens..
 
#20 · (Edited)
It runs! Fired it up today after swapping head gaskets, sounds really healthy 🙂

Minor issue with the tcm going into limp mode and killing all throttle but only in D/R (ie with the clutch pedal up), in P/N (clutch pedal depressed) it’s fine. Seems to be Immediately after one key cycle so I’m hopeful it’s a tuning thing. Else, maybe I can try bridging my clutch interlock circuit to trick it into thinking it’s always in P/N, then just tie my starter circuit into the physical clutch interlock switch.

Here’s a little startup video
https://youtu.be/TxCEUPG94xo
 
#23 ·
Nope sounds good.
Who did the Flash ?
 
#24 ·
You can use neutral/ park clutch sense wire if the tuner increases the rev limiter set for them. I don't remember what the original setting was, but 4000 sounds about right.
 
#28 ·
Hi all, the issues start... the srt10 ram throwout bearing I used had too little clearance to the t56 magnum input shaft. Albeit, when I installed it there was the slightest rubbing noise between the two that I thought would clearance itself... Clearly not by the picture. The input shaft and clutch look unharmed. That said, I have a new bearing in hand and am going to send to a machine shop to open its ID up for more clearance to the input shaft. There looks to be tons of meat there to not impact its structural integrity.

What clearance should I shoot for, t56 magnum allowable runout (0.010”) x2, say 0.020” on diameter? Only want to do this again once!

Thanks!
 

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#29 ·
I don't have experience with the t-56 clutch assembly. But did change the clutch on my g-56 a couple years ago. And not to jinx what you are doing but clearancing the throwout bearing doesn't sound like a good idea to me. My gut tells me you have a parts mixmatch.
 
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#30 ·
That’s odd. The bearing should have the slightest play on the shaft so it can slide in and out when pedal pressed down. To much and it will wobble and eat itself up. .020 sound right.

Did the old one destroy the shaft mount looks pretty bad.
 
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