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Old 06-04-2016, 05:17 PM   #1
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Truck Wont Stay Running

2004 Hemi 5.7L


Symptoms:
Rough Idle
Low RPM idle
Stalling at idle when warm
Stalling when come to stop when warm

Already Done:
Throttle Body Replaced
PCV Valve Replaced
EGR Valve Replaced
Camshaft Sensor Replaced
Crankshaft Sensor Replaced
Spark Plugs Replaced
Cleaned & Tested Injectors
Coils Replaced
Compression Test Good
Leak down Test Good
Injector Cleaner Ran Through System
Fuel Pressure Test Good
Replaced both upstream o2 sensors
Drilled holes in exhaust before cat to rule out clogged cat.


I have thrown a lot of time and money into this thing and can not figure it out. I have now come to the conclusion, I need help

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Old 06-04-2016, 06:52 PM   #2
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Check fuel pressure when warm first off since you pretty much changed everything there is to change. If it's a solid 56-60 psi (guage variance) your good to go there. Next test is make sure you have abosolutly no vacuum leaks around intake and thru evap purge valve just in front of fuse box on bracket.
After that test you will want to pull out the crank sensor and inspect it for damage if it's good then toe going to need a scanner to clear the adaptives stored in the pcm for throttle blade position (no a battery disconnect will not clear this) this test/procedure will rule out the throttle learning an odd stores position. If you make it to the scanner clear and it still acts up your going to need a scope to check signals the computer is seeing.

I hope it's a fuel issue or vacuum leak the other tests will cost a little.
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:59 PM   #3
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Any codes?
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:24 PM   #4
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What do the plugs look like? Any pictures? Do you have the original spark wires still on it? welcome to the forum...
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:33 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by charged392 View Post
Check fuel pressure when warm first off since you pretty much changed everything there is to change. If it's a solid 56-60 psi (guage variance) your good to go there. Next test is make sure you have abosolutly no vacuum leaks around intake and thru evap purge valve just in front of fuse box on bracket.
After that test you will want to pull out the crank sensor and inspect it for damage if it's good then toe going to need a scanner to clear the adaptives stored in the pcm for throttle blade position (no a battery disconnect will not clear this) this test/procedure will rule out the throttle learning an odd stores position. If you make it to the scanner clear and it still acts up your going to need a scope to check signals the computer is seeing.

I hope it's a fuel issue or vacuum leak the other tests will cost a little.
I just did fuel pressure test today, It was right at 55 when it was running and held at 52 after it died for over 30 minutes. I my vehicle is a durango, So i am not sure if the evap purge valve is near the fuse box still or not. As far as codes go, Im a lucky one with a Witech, which has helped me tremendously and screwed me just the same. I sent it to the dealer when i ran out of the options and gave them a total of 10 print outs from the witech showing what i have cleared up and what is still giving me issues over the period of time. I think that kinda gave them a bad taste in their mouth and they charged me a diag fee and then told me everything came back fine and they have no idea what my issue is ( basicly i dont think they tried anything because i had already done it all ). So again, I have a witech so i can do stuff there if you have any ideas. I even went through and flashed every module in the vehicle already and still am sitting here. I have cleared all memory multiple times, and relearned the ETC multiple times using the witech. Like i said, I am baffled at this point.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:35 PM   #6
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Any codes?
Currently the codes that pop up are p0174 and p0172 i believe, one saying fuel is too lean, the other too rich. these codes have never left since i got the vehicle, although now the holes i drilled right before the cat in the exhaust will screw with it i am sure, but since i can't even keep the thing running, no point is dealing with the holes yet.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:38 PM   #7
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What do the plugs look like? Any pictures? Do you have the original spark wires still on it? welcome to the forum...
The original plugs were all caked with soot except cylinder 1 which had oil on it which was why we ran the compression and leak down tests trying to determine if it could be piston rings or valves, but both came back fine. and cylinder 6 spark plug had exploded and was not pretty. since both ran off of the coil on cylinder 1 we decided to swap all of them out for MSD street fires and new plugs to rule that out.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:39 PM   #8
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What's your fuel pressure under driving conditions before it stalls? Clogged fuel filter?
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:42 PM   #9
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What's your fuel pressure under driving conditions before it stalls? Clogged fuel filter?
I cant even get it out of my driveway before it stalls. When i start it completely cold i can typically get it down the block then i hit stop sign and it dies. Then i have to use a mixture of holding brake with one foot and gas with the other to keep rpms up high enough to drive it back into the driveway.
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Old 06-04-2016, 08:48 PM   #10
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I cant even get it out of my driveway before it stalls. When i start it completely cold i can typically get it down the block then i hit stop sign and it dies. Then i have to use a mixture of holding brake with one foot and gas with the other to keep rpms up high enough to drive it back into the driveway.
Also, this model does not have a separate filter. Its a all in one unit in the tank. Crappy design flaw.
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