Lifter Replacement - Hemi Truck Club
 
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Old 02-21-2017, 11:54 AM   #1
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Lifter Replacement

Hello everyone, This forum was recommended on another forum I was looking at, and was touted as the best place for technical advice.
I'm sure I'm beating a dead horse with this thread, and if I am, sorry. I just purchased a 2004 Ram with the 5.7L, this is my third Ram, and my first with a hemi (woot!). I know the hemi-tick is common, but when I took this truck to my mechanic he said one of the lifters is definitely bad and needs to be replaced. I've done a lot of peripheral component replacement, and routine maintenance, but I've never dug into an engine (I feel like I'm considering brain surgery!) so I'm a little apprehensive about what I'm getting ready to get into. As I've been looking into how to do the repair, I found at least one post on how to do the job, I'll list it below. Really, I'm looking for advice, tips, any wisdom anyone may have to offer, I'd appreciate it! Especially any info on technical details I may need to know about doing this job.

Here's the workflow listed on another site, is it valid?


Removal
1. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2. Remove the air cleaner.
3. Remove intake manifold.
4. Remove cylinder head cover.
5. Remove rocker arm assembly and push rods. Identify push rods to ensure installation in original location.
6. Remove the cylinder head.
7. Remove bolt from tappet retainer (1).
8. Remove tappet retainer (1).
9. Pull tappet out of bore with a twisting motion. If all tappets are to be removed and reused, identify tappets to ensure installation in original location.
10. Check camshaft lobes for abnormal wear

Installation
1. Lubricate tappets. CAUTION: 5.7L engines equipped with MDS uses both standard roller tappets and deactivating roller tappets, for use with the Multi Displacement System. The deactivating roller tappets must be used in cylinders 1,4,6,7. The deactivating tappets can be identified by the two holes in the side of the tappet body, for the latching pins.
2. Install tappets in their original positions.
3. Install tappet retainer (1). Install the tappet retainer bolt and tighten to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.) torque.
4. Install cylinder head.
5. Install pushrods and rocker arm assembly.
6. Install cylinder head cover.
7. Install intake manifold.
8. Install the air cleaner.
9. Connect the negative cable to the battery. CAUTION: To prevent damage to valve mechanism, engine must not be run above fast idle until all hydraulic tappets have filled with oil and have become quiet.
10. Road test vehicle and check for leaks.



Thanks everyone!

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Old 02-21-2017, 12:22 PM   #2
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It's a pretty straight forward job as indicated. You don't have MDS so don't worry about that. Your list doesn't mention exhaust manifolds. Again pretty straight forward. I would spray penetrating oil on them for a couple of days before starting.
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Old 02-21-2017, 01:38 PM   #3
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Okay, so detach the exhaust manifold also. Thanks. This may be a noob question, but, will I have to adjust timing after this work? Does timing get messed with at all?
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Old 02-21-2017, 02:06 PM   #4
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No, nothing other than put it back together.
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Old 02-21-2017, 02:31 PM   #5
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Old 02-21-2017, 02:37 PM   #6
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You will need to drain the radiator and change the oil and filter. You will get some anti freeze in the oil. Starting with draining the radiator first thing..
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Old 02-21-2017, 03:00 PM   #7
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Old 02-21-2017, 07:24 PM   #8
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Pretty much exactly how you have it just drain engine coolant first better yet pull block plug and coolant won't get in oil!

Are you sure it's a lifter and not the 7/8 rod known issue knock on start up goes after 5-10 secs have seen this miss diagnosed before!
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Old 02-22-2017, 11:18 AM   #9
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who makes a good lifter upgrade for us ?
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Old 02-22-2017, 11:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charged392 View Post
Pretty much exactly how you have it just drain engine coolant first better yet pull block plug and coolant won't get in oil!
Keith, excellent point I seem to always forget about the block plugs....
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