Idoler pulley bolt broke help - Hemi Truck Club
 
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Old 11-11-2016, 11:45 PM   #1
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Idoler pulley bolt broke help

So I was doing the tensioner on the truck tonight and decided to just go ahead and do the idler pulley too while I was there. I torqued the tensioner down to spec and it was fine and then I went to torque the idler pulley and the bolt broke off. I guess due to being aluminum. My question is can I just go get a grade 8 bolt and replace it since the pulley sits on a shoulder on the front Of the motor. Or does it have to be a shoulder bolt and aluminum for any reason? I got the broken bolt out. The main problem I have is getting the bolt is a little tricky. Have to call the dealer if anything I guess.

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Old 11-12-2016, 04:20 AM   #2
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I have never heard of an aluminum bolt being used for anything period. Would like to see a picture of it. But to answer your question. You can do use a steel bolt and a washer combination as long as the idle is held in place and is allowed to move. I have a double pulley (Keith's design) on mine with bolts and washers from tractor supply.
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:18 AM   #3
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It would be advisable to use the oem bolt. After all, it was designed and tested by Dodge. Haven't heard of any problems with the oem bolt. Just torque it to the correct spec's.

With that being said. If it's not a stock set up. That changes everything....
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:18 AM   #4
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Hmm ok. Well mayb it is steel but it couldnt handle much torque. Im gonna call and see if i can get the bolt this am
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:29 AM   #5
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Idle pulley needs about 6ft lbs for tourney half what a plug takes to stay in there must have been cranking that thing. You can use any bolt just make sure you use a washer and that it doesn't hit anything but the first edge of the idler bearing or it will drag and lock up. After you get it out on make sure it spins freely with your hand.

Gregg never heard of aluminum bolts then I would suggest you never use own or work on any european vehicles lol 90% of the bolts are aluminum it's scary sometimes.
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:43 AM   #6
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Well that would be what it was then because I read on another site that the torque setting was like 45 pounds. LOL. Unless the guy meant to put 4 to 5 pounds and forgot the dash. So it is only 6 pounds of torque needed? I torqued to the tensioner assembly to about 30 pounds. It seemed fine and that was with the torque setting was on my van so I figured that one was fine.
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Old 11-12-2016, 08:02 AM   #7
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To be honest I have never used a torque wrench on anything but head bolts and lug nuts. Most everything else has a feel to it. When tightening thread the bolt down till it gets snug/stops then give it 1/4-1/2 turn and that's good for most everything that bolts to an engine. Go by the bolt shank diameter. 4-6mm is less than 3ft lbs most times. 8-10 is mostly 6-25, 10 being in the higher torque range.
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Old 11-12-2016, 08:10 AM   #8
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Ok. Great. Thanks!
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Old 11-12-2016, 01:00 PM   #9
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Okay, so ran to Menards and got a bolt and washers to sub til I get the factory bolt in Tues. Got it all put back together in about 30 min but the friggin thing is still squealing. So new tensioner and new idler and nothing is changed. I did the soapy water trick and it quiets right up just like before until it flings it all off. So do Dayco belts just suck on these or maybe i got some 5 year old ones that are dried up or what? I was thinking maybe I should just get the Mopar belt Tues and swap it out and take the Dayco back again? Wth? I don't get it.
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Old 11-12-2016, 01:49 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charged392 View Post
Gregg never heard of aluminum bolts then I would suggest you never use own or work on any european vehicles lol 90% of the bolts are aluminum it's scary sometimes.
I completely live under my shade tree. The last foreign car I worked on was my daughters BMW. It didn't have any aluminum bolts. But with the way aluminum corrodes it must make for some real interesting times.
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