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Oil Filters

15K views 57 replies 16 participants last post by  Mrs.Studmuffin 
#1 ·
Coming over from Cummins forum, if you searched it, there was a lot of info on types of oil filters--some better than others (eg Fram)

Baldwin
Donaldson
Amsoil

Some of the names thrown around. Same here?
 
#2 ·
I currently run Wix Filters but probably changing to a Royal Purple oil filter on the next change.
 
#4 ·
Napa Gold are Wix filters.

I'd stick to Wix or the 3 mentioned above.
 
#5 ·
On my previous truck, I ran the Donaldson oil filter and Amsoil by-pass. I've only got 150miles on new truck--so a ways to go before oil change, but I like to plan! :thumb:
 
#6 ·
good to know. :thumb:
 
#8 ·
Your K&N is made in Taiwan.

Not that it could be a bad thing.
 
#10 ·
You're joking about the Fram right? Please say you're joking.
 
#12 ·
Soot is a big thing w/ diesels (and coming from that world) and that lead to better filtration--like 98.7% efficient at 10 microns.
Maybe gassers I don't have to be as "worried" about specific micron/absolute ratings since I'm not dealing w/ soot in the oil.

Just get a descent filter (baldwin/donaldson) and I'd be good to go.
 
#13 ·
You're still dealing with particulates even though there's not all the soot. So I recommend a quality filter regardless. I have a personal rule. If I can buy it off the shelf at walmart, I don't want it on or in my vehicles.

Your air filter is the first defense in keeping particulates out of the motor. I recommend staying away from wet cotton gauze types. If you do use a wet cotton gauze type I recommend one of the many foam wraps you can use on them.
 
#15 ·
That's a step up from Fram at least. LOL:thumb:
 
#16 ·
I did not purchase the regular Mobil 1 oil filter. To be specific, I have purchased a Mobil 1 Extended Performance Oil Filter for my HEMI. I researched oil filters and this one was highly rated, especially for synthetic oils, and their longer oil change intervals. I will still change oil every 3,000 miles including filter. I am a firm believer in clean oil being the life blood of an engine. I change oil & filters on all my vehicles, including my Harley Davidson, at 3,000 miles as good insurance.
 
#17 ·
You'd be my best customer. LOL

It's not a bad practice at all. I could go longer on my diesel, but I still stick to the 7,500 mile regimen for the same reason. That just short of once a year for me.
 
#21 ·
I used to run wix/napa gold, and pretty much agreed that Fram was just low quality crap for the masses. But the new Fram ULTRA seems to be a different animal altogether and is easy to get at Walmart.

Same with Valvolene 5w30 synthetic. I used to run Mobil 1 but it's not Chrysler 6935 specked. and Valvolene is and ran middle of the pack in testing I've seen among synthetics. (I run RedLine 20-50 in the Harley, though. :) )

I did say 5w30 even in my MDS hemi. I just don't trust Café rules and think 5w20 is too thin for extended longevity. The owners manual says it's OK.

I also am firmly against extended oil changes. The oil may be perfectly fine, it's the crap in the oil that I'm dumping out that stays in there if you extend the change.

I can afford to change synthetic every 3000 and it makes me feel good, ymmv. :)
 
#23 ·
All the more reason to run a quality oil filter.


I'll pass on any thing redline makes. The top 3 motorcycle oils are BMW, Mobil and AMSOIL.

What's the specs on that fram ultra?
 
#33 ·
I can't speculate on how soon it will breakdown. I do know in all the testing it's fast enough to be compared to dino oil.

Why run sea foam? Why band aid something that's already bad. Seems kind of pointless and even more costly and time consuming. Dino oil is better than it used to be too btw. Good on you changing it often.


I'm not an AMSOIL rep by the way. No dealer is.

The fact that you change it often is good. It's just not cost effective. That's your prerogative though and that's fine. Much better than neglecting it with cheap oil.

As far as availability, I get it. But just like buying fuel or anything else, you don't wait until you're empty all the time do you all? Keep some on hand, order ahead of time instead of waiting till after you need it?

Just a thought.

I'm not against red line. I just think it has it's place. At least they don't try to pretend they're something they're not like another well know product I know.

One last thing, the color of the oil is not any indication of the oils current quality.
 
#34 ·
Not everyone has the luxury of a garage. I can't store flammable liquids in my apartment and I'm not dragging 7 qts of oil around everywhere in a regular cab truck. :lol:
 
#35 ·
Personally from the extended tests the Navy did on the radar units, I would bet that regular changes with decent oil is far better than extended changes with the best oil you can get, whatever that may be.

"Cost effective" is really a bet that someone isn't going to run their engine until it dies after 100,000, 200,000, 300,000 miles etc.

I personally know a guy (same tech at Sperry Corp that did the radar testing) that ran his Honda for 700,000+ original engine miles with no internal engine work by changing his oil with dino oil every 1000 miles religiously.

It's not the oil breaking down, it's the crud that accumulates in the oil that needs to be flushed out with the change that's the issue. That's the elephant in the room with extended oil changes.

But if you don't run your engine over 100,000 miles before trading it off, who cares. Right? It's always a cost/benefit issue, and there is not one right answer, each individual needs to make their own choices on what applies to what they want.

About the only universal in this whole argument is that you should change your oil... anyone claiming what is best for everyone is surely wrong.
 
#42 ·
Idk, I'm just not a believer in these claims. Seem like pretty tall tales to me. I don't see how over 8x a normal interval is even possible. I don't care what oil is derived from or refined from, it is still hydrocarbons. Doesn't matter how you get there it's all flammable and it WILL break down with heat. "Breakdown" is oxidation of the molecules. The chemical formula for this reaction is identical to burning, just not with enough heat and oxygen to keep the reaction sustained. Simple chemistry refutes the claims. I can't even force myself to consider it plausible. The crankcase is just too harsh of an environment to claim that a flammable liquid will last very long in there.
 
#43 ·
You're off just a bit in over simplifying it. I was skeptical of the claims myself. I ran oil analysis on my last truck for 3 years to confirm it for myself. I can post the results if you like. I'm a semi retired engineer and I love seeing data.

AMSOIL's been around since 1972. It's not snake oil or some stupid additive you add to shitty oil to make it better. They know what they're doing.

Even Mobil has been pushing extended drains with some of their products albeit not warrantied in new vehicles.

I'm not forcing it on anyone. Run brand X and change it more often is fine by me. I know it's wasteful. It's easy math and that's not even considering your time under the truck. Better fuel economy etc etc.

The benefits far outweigh any negatives. The only negative I've heard at all is it's hard to find and that is easily enough remedied.
 
#44 ·
ya, mobil says 5,000 now. still change it every 3000 though. I tried running it 4000 once and decided when I could feel a power difference with fresh oil it was in there too long.
 
#45 ·
Well darn.. what happened to their 7,000 and 12,000 mile oil?

Good call. You bring up a great point I use when talking to people that think brand X is so great. At least you're more in tune with what's going on than most folks.

Here's how it goes in a nutshell:

I ask them when you tried brand X you noticed how much better your car or bike ran right? Of course they say yes.

Than I ask them when you changed the oil again with their favorite brand it felt great again didn't it? They say yes again.

Than I ask them shouldn't that good feeling last the duration of the service interval? Than they start scratching their heads. :confused:

Than I explain to them that the reason they get that great feeling after each change is because the oil is breaking down in between services and you're not getting that same greatness you did when the product was new.

I show them the charts and graphs that show how brand X breaks down and why they notice each oil change. I also explain that AMSOIL maintains it's quality throughout the life of the service interval.

Than my job is done! :D I have a new customer or I don't. Doesn't matter to me. I taught someone something they didn't even realize before.

You guys are ahead of the curve when it comes to understanding more than the average person. :smitten:
 
#46 ·
I think the mobil 1 is rated longer and I believe they have a "better" grade than that too. I just use the 5-20 conventional stuff with the high mileage detergents added. When I change it every 3000 I don't notice any performance change. Never find any gunk on the plug either and I usually dump it through an old t-shirt rag and funnel just for peace of mind. That's a habit I picked up on the farm changing oil on 30 year old tractors. lol I've seen some interesting things come out of the crankcase of an old John Deere, but to their credit most of them had over 10,000 hours on them. Dad has a 4430 with 23,000 hours on it. 3 engine rebuilds and 1 transmission, that old girl will live forever lol I'm sure dad runs the cheapest thing they can find in a 55 gallon drum too, my uncle runs the checkbook and he's a tight one. lol You can run the cheap stuff without issues if it's done right.
 
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