The solution to the HID complications with these trucks - Hemi Truck Club
 
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:34 PM   #1
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I had the same problems as most people with my HID's flashing, flickering, etc. All you need to do is buy a "load control module". It will plug inline with your HID harness and eliminate these problems. Any shop that sells HID's should have them in stock. I paid 17 bucks for mine, and there was no messing around with resistors or capacitors. It's money well spent, trust me.

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2004 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Reg Cab Short box 4X4

Current setup that is in the process of being replaced by something insane...

Inertia Motorsports 6.1 Intake Manifold Conversion, Mopar Performance CNC Ported 6.1 Heads, Direct Port Nitrous System jetted for 128hp shot (16hp/cyl), Bottle heater, purge, and remote bottle opener 'Custom' cai, Ceramic coated longtube headers, Full dual exhaust with X pipe and no cats dumped, Comp Cams XFI-268, Comp Cams beehive valve springs, McGaughey's/Fabtech 5/6 drop with c-notch, Triple pillar pod with wideband air/fuel, nitrous pressure, pyrometer, NGK 4306's, 3500 stall Edge billet torque converter, Diablo Predator, EGR system removed, Electric Fan, 4.56's, Castrol Edge oil, and 24 inch wheels.

6000K bi-Xenon HID headlights, 6000K HID foglights, Clarion in-dash DVD player with 7" flip up monitor, Clarion GPS, Satellite Radio, Audison 4 channel amp, Focal speakers, Stainless Mopar nerf bars, Mopar tonneau cover, Line-X Spray in bedliner, Stainless fender trim, Chrome door handles, SRT-10 hood, sport/rumble bee lower air dam, Billet door lock pins (wow!!)


0-60mph 4.20 sec
1/4 mile 12.6 @ 105.2
full weight, street tires

RACE WHAT YOU DRIVE
track prep is great for people
who like to brag about a time
they can't hit on a daily basis

weight reduction is for fat people and slicks are for racecars
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Old 03-25-2010, 09:34 PM   #2
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I had the same problems as most people with my HID's flashing, flickering, etc. All you need to do is buy a "load control module". It will plug inline with your HID harness and eliminate these problems. Any shop that sells HID's should have them in stock. I paid 17 bucks for mine, and there was no messing around with resistors or capacitors. It's money well spent, trust me.
__________________
2004 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Reg Cab Short box 4X4

Current setup that is in the process of being replaced by something insane...

Inertia Motorsports 6.1 Intake Manifold Conversion, Mopar Performance CNC Ported 6.1 Heads, Direct Port Nitrous System jetted for 128hp shot (16hp/cyl), Bottle heater, purge, and remote bottle opener 'Custom' cai, Ceramic coated longtube headers, Full dual exhaust with X pipe and no cats dumped, Comp Cams XFI-268, Comp Cams beehive valve springs, McGaughey's/Fabtech 5/6 drop with c-notch, Triple pillar pod with wideband air/fuel, nitrous pressure, pyrometer, NGK 4306's, 3500 stall Edge billet torque converter, Diablo Predator, EGR system removed, Electric Fan, 4.56's, Castrol Edge oil, and 24 inch wheels.

6000K bi-Xenon HID headlights, 6000K HID foglights, Clarion in-dash DVD player with 7" flip up monitor, Clarion GPS, Satellite Radio, Audison 4 channel amp, Focal speakers, Stainless Mopar nerf bars, Mopar tonneau cover, Line-X Spray in bedliner, Stainless fender trim, Chrome door handles, SRT-10 hood, sport/rumble bee lower air dam, Billet door lock pins (wow!!)


0-60mph 4.20 sec
1/4 mile 12.6 @ 105.2
full weight, street tires

RACE WHAT YOU DRIVE
track prep is great for people
who like to brag about a time
they can't hit on a daily basis

weight reduction is for fat people and slicks are for racecars
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Old 03-27-2010, 08:41 AM   #3
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Too late for me I am done with them!!
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Old 03-28-2010, 09:40 PM   #4
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thats fine, the post was meant for those who are currently using or are planning on installing HID's.
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2004 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Reg Cab Short box 4X4

Current setup that is in the process of being replaced by something insane...

Inertia Motorsports 6.1 Intake Manifold Conversion, Mopar Performance CNC Ported 6.1 Heads, Direct Port Nitrous System jetted for 128hp shot (16hp/cyl), Bottle heater, purge, and remote bottle opener 'Custom' cai, Ceramic coated longtube headers, Full dual exhaust with X pipe and no cats dumped, Comp Cams XFI-268, Comp Cams beehive valve springs, McGaughey's/Fabtech 5/6 drop with c-notch, Triple pillar pod with wideband air/fuel, nitrous pressure, pyrometer, NGK 4306's, 3500 stall Edge billet torque converter, Diablo Predator, EGR system removed, Electric Fan, 4.56's, Castrol Edge oil, and 24 inch wheels.

6000K bi-Xenon HID headlights, 6000K HID foglights, Clarion in-dash DVD player with 7" flip up monitor, Clarion GPS, Satellite Radio, Audison 4 channel amp, Focal speakers, Stainless Mopar nerf bars, Mopar tonneau cover, Line-X Spray in bedliner, Stainless fender trim, Chrome door handles, SRT-10 hood, sport/rumble bee lower air dam, Billet door lock pins (wow!!)


0-60mph 4.20 sec
1/4 mile 12.6 @ 105.2
full weight, street tires

RACE WHAT YOU DRIVE
track prep is great for people
who like to brag about a time
they can't hit on a daily basis

weight reduction is for fat people and slicks are for racecars
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:23 PM   #5
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Does it correct the dash saying my light is out.
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:49 PM   #6
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to be honest with you i'm not 100 percent sure, i will probably be able to figure that out tomorrow. right now i'm only running one load control module, the HID's are powered through the harness that came in the kit. i have a second module that i'm going to put in so i can eliminate the HID harness altogether and then i will know. i have the lamp out light on as well and i had tried the second module and the lamp out indicator was still on so i took it out and ran through the HID harness again, but then i realized that both of my license plate lights were burnt out so that could have been the reason the lamp out indicator was on. i replaced the bulbs and i'm going to try again.
__________________
2004 Dodge Ram 1500 SLT Reg Cab Short box 4X4

Current setup that is in the process of being replaced by something insane...

Inertia Motorsports 6.1 Intake Manifold Conversion, Mopar Performance CNC Ported 6.1 Heads, Direct Port Nitrous System jetted for 128hp shot (16hp/cyl), Bottle heater, purge, and remote bottle opener 'Custom' cai, Ceramic coated longtube headers, Full dual exhaust with X pipe and no cats dumped, Comp Cams XFI-268, Comp Cams beehive valve springs, McGaughey's/Fabtech 5/6 drop with c-notch, Triple pillar pod with wideband air/fuel, nitrous pressure, pyrometer, NGK 4306's, 3500 stall Edge billet torque converter, Diablo Predator, EGR system removed, Electric Fan, 4.56's, Castrol Edge oil, and 24 inch wheels.

6000K bi-Xenon HID headlights, 6000K HID foglights, Clarion in-dash DVD player with 7" flip up monitor, Clarion GPS, Satellite Radio, Audison 4 channel amp, Focal speakers, Stainless Mopar nerf bars, Mopar tonneau cover, Line-X Spray in bedliner, Stainless fender trim, Chrome door handles, SRT-10 hood, sport/rumble bee lower air dam, Billet door lock pins (wow!!)


0-60mph 4.20 sec
1/4 mile 12.6 @ 105.2
full weight, street tires

RACE WHAT YOU DRIVE
track prep is great for people
who like to brag about a time
they can't hit on a daily basis

weight reduction is for fat people and slicks are for racecars
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Old 12-21-2010, 01:32 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by harleyc16:
I had the same problems as most people with my HID's flashing, flickering, etc. All you need to do is buy a "load control module". It will plug inline with your HID harness and eliminate these problems. Any shop that sells HID's should have them in stock. I paid 17 bucks for mine, and there was no messing around with resistors or capacitors. It's money well spent, trust me.
I'm having that problem, My low beams are flashing and my highs are work good.. So i'm guessing I need a load control module but can't find any..
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Old 12-22-2010, 03:05 PM   #8
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the flickering is cause by the Day running light module no??
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Old 12-23-2010, 05:37 AM   #9
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matt the headlights are controlled by the computer and because the hids are only 35watts compared to the 55 of a halogn bulb, it see that there is not enough current and it shuts off the light and then cycles on and then off ect, therefore the flicker, there are a couple options, one you can run your power from tyhe parking lights, 2 you can by the resistors and make em yourself, i no when i had that truck the headlights were horrible, i tried every kind of bulb i could get , ended up leaving the blue ebay bulbs in it when i got rid of it, i had a set of 6 inch lights behind the grill, that solved my light issue . also hids wont work a daytime running lights, there is not enough current for them to light up, which is why many people wire them to the park lights.

if you are interested in a hid kit dont waste your money on a "brand name" kit, unlesss its from twiggy on dodgetalk, ddmtuning.com has great kits at unbeatable prices, i havent personally seem the h13's for the ram but my mazda hids are great and no issues.
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Old 01-06-2011, 02:15 PM   #10
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i don't think wire the ballast on the parking light its a good things to do for truck equip with Day running light, cause the drl module cut the ground 9 times per seconds this so the light will receive 9 volts. On my corrola i need too ground the ballasts direct on the body too resolve my problems
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