I'll try to help as I've done many brake jobs on various vehicles. I've done a front pad job on my 05 1500 Quad (still fairly new just had to fix a squeaking problem). Although I didn't do the rotors, most of the basics are the same. This is also from memory and I don't have pics so bear with me. (and forgive my spelling)
1. Loosen lugs, jack up and remove tires.
1a. (Some guys turn the wheels to have better access to the caliper your currently working on. I don't, but it's your choice.)
2. Remove the two bolts holding the caliper on. It might be metric. Check for good socket fit.
3. Remove caliper. (you may need a pry bar or similar to assist you) The pads do not remove with the caliper in this application. Be careful not to let the caliper drop and yank on the brake line. Clean any rust or old goop from caliper where the pads where. (wire brush works good just don't damage the piston boot)
3a. Remove brake fluid reservoir cap and set loosely on top.
3b. Carefully push in brake pistons in the caliper assembly using a piston tool (store bought) or C clamps or whatever you got for the job. They should be near flush when fully pushed in.
4. Place caliper on top of your wheel assembly, out of the way and secure so as not to drop accidently and yank on the brake line. (You could also support it with a box of some sort if ones available)
5. Slide out old pads (They slide in and out on the caliper bracket) and carefully remove metal retaining clips (small hammer and screwdiver should do). Clean all old grease and crud off of these clips where the pads slide on. Use care not to deform them or you will need to replace. Set aside for reassembly. Also clean rust off where the metal clip went on main bracket.
6. (this is what I haven't done specifically on my truck but many others) Locate and remove bolts (usually 2) that hold caliper bracket to the wheel hub. Possibly metric (Use correct wrench or socket!) You may need a breaker bar or pipe as they might be rusty. Remove bracket.
7. The rotor should be removable now. It also could be rusted on and you may need a sledge to help remove. Just use caution on your swings.
8. Clean new rotors with isopropanal or rubbing alcohol to remove rust protectant (Need only do the area the calipers slide on)
9. Reinstall rotor. It will be loose until things become reassembled.
10. Apply a little anti-sieze to the bolts and reinstall caliper bracket. Torque well.
11. Reinstall metal clips on bracket. Apply some caliper grease (not general grease)(found in any auto store) to clips where the pads will be sliding. Not too much but enough for lubrication.
12. Time for brake pads. Identify which is the piston side and which is the "floater" side if different. (If identical except for a little metal "squeaker" tab. That's the piston side. If it doesn't have it, no worries. Some pads have em, some don't.)
13. Apply some brake quiet, stop squeak or similar (found in any auto store) to the back of the pads. You only need enough to coat it and only where the caliper hits the pads. (Look at the back of your old pads for reference) This is merely to help the pads 'stick' to the caliper and prevent squeaking. (Also keep from getting it on your rotors. Same goes for any grease)
14. Slide pads onto the bracket as tightly to the rotors as you can.
15. Carefully reinstall caliper trying not to remove the brake quiet you just applied. (Sometimes it's not too easy with new pads and rotors) Just try not too goop up the rotors.
16. Important! Add a little anti-sieze only to the threads of the caliper bolts and apply a good amount of caliper grease to the 'sliding' portion of the bolt. (This and greasing the metal clips enables the caliper to slide freely when braking. Very important.)
17. Tighten the bolts firmly but no need to overtighten them or they may strip. (not good)
18. Retighten your reservoir cap, get in and pump your brakes until firm. I do this so the anti-squeak will be in the right place when it firms up while I'm doing the other side.
19. Repeat for other side.
You don't have to, but I wait at least an hour or two for the anti-squeak to set up before driving it. Moving out of the garage won't hurt it tho.
I haven't done the rear ones yet but I assume it's fairly similar. The only difference might be to screw in the piston instead of push it in (because of the emergency brake cable). But I've heard in another thread this is not the case. Can someone else please confirm? Or just check it out before you attempt it.
Good luck with the brake job.