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Old 02-01-2018, 11:11 AM   #1
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Front wheel bearings

How much play is allowed (if any) in the front wheel when rocking the wheel holding it top and bottom?

Cheaped out a couple years back and got the cheap low quality china bearings, I can now here a sort of knocking noise in the left front wheel which gets worse when I brake. Am doubting between a warped disk and a worn bearing, with the disk removed I can rock the bearing about 0.2mm/0,0078" (hard to measure).

Thanks.

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Old 02-01-2018, 06:57 PM   #2
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That sounds like a bad hub. Driverside is the shoulder isn't it? My passenger side got lose and I bought a pair of high end SKF bearings and changed them both. After about a month the drivers side was bad and I put the original hub back on. Got a hassle with NAPA about replacing it. Just short of a brawl I got my money and left. The original is still being used.
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Old 02-01-2018, 10:20 PM   #3
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A tiny bit of play is ok but if your getting noises that’s not.
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Old 02-02-2018, 02:20 AM   #4
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The issue started shortly after installing new discs and pads. Problem is I am not 100% sure what's causing it, my first thought was maybe a warped disc but when I disassembled to check I noticed the small amount of play in the hub.

Also went around the suspension with a crowbar to see if any of the bushings,... had any play but couldn't find any.

In an ideal world i'd buy new bearings, discs and brake pads and be done with it, but money is tight :-) so I can't.

Everywhere I read it says a little play is normal in the bearing, but what is a litlle play :-) and what is too much.
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Christof Matthys - 2003 2x4 QC Ram hemi - 0-60: 5,4 sec @ 6900 pounds - tuned by Charged392 - 392 stroker - vararam - Flexalite Efan - 170 T stat - Taylor shorty wires - pacesetter headers - true duals - evap delete - airco delete - truetrac lsd rear diff, 3.92 gears, T56 6 speed manual - homebuilt rear axle flip - Charged 392 design longbars - energy suspension poly bushings - michelin contisportcontact 275/30 R20 - 2/4,5 drop - hydroboost swap - srt front 4 piston caliper swap - PLX Devices AFR, fuel pressure, OBDII logger

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Old 02-02-2018, 03:07 AM   #5
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Found someone close by who can turn down the discs on a lathe for a reasonable price, so I'll start with that. See if a warped disc is the issue.

Should I get new pads too, keeping in mind I have less than 2000 miles on this set?
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Old 02-02-2018, 10:10 AM   #6
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Just minor play and I mean very minor. Knocks slowing down could be the caliper slides getting a workout from a warped rotor but most times the pedal will pulsate if that’s the case. Does the wheel shake at all or just noise
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Old 02-02-2018, 12:59 PM   #7
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I think it goes like this, tad, a bit, minor and slight.

Is the truck darting any going down the road. Any rumbling? I'm going to say if you can feel the play at the wheel its too much. Torque the wheels when you put them on, it'll help keep them from warping. I lean on my brakes pretty hard coming off of speed and thats with small brakes on the rear with no issues. The key is torquing them..
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1956 Jeep Pickup Hemi powered "Street Rod project"

1# 2017 HTC FASTEST HEMI List....
Current 1/4 mile [email protected] (2018)
Current 60' PB 1.351 (2019) mechanical issue for 1/4m

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Old 02-11-2018, 01:01 AM   #8
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No pulsating of the pedal when I brake, it also makes the sound when I'm not on the brake, get's worse when I brake.

Truck is lowered a bit so if there are 'ruts' (think that's the word) in the road it darts a bit, but on a perfect road it's nice and straigth, I always torque my wheel to 180nm.

Will put the truck on the lift again today, pull the wheels and go over the entire front suspension again to check for worn/broken/loose parts, if I cant find anything I'll order new bearings.

Any tips on how to check everything, I'll probably get the crowbar out and see if anything is loose, but there might be more adequate ways of checking?
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Old 02-11-2018, 06:59 AM   #9
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If the truck darts on sweeping turns or in and out of ruts I'd suspect a wheel bearing. When inspecting the hub, I look for rusty colored dust or buildup as a indicator along with play. The key I believe to NOT having bump steer with our trucks is to limit it's travel. From the factory there was surprisingly little gap between the bump and control arm. Red iuses 2" spindles and cut springs. Drives like its on rails..
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2003 RCSB, 2wd, "Pro-Street"
6.4L/cog driven V7-Ysi/46rh trans/HTH Truckarm coilover suspension. HP Tuning...

1956 Jeep Pickup Hemi powered "Street Rod project"

1# 2017 HTC FASTEST HEMI List....
Current 1/4 mile [email protected] (2018)
Current 60' PB 1.351 (2019) mechanical issue for 1/4m

HTC 2018 TOTY

Support vehicle- 2007 QC G56 4x4 diesel
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Old 02-11-2018, 09:29 AM   #10
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For tie rods and rack bushings lightly wiggle wheel side to side and feel for any play that’s there. If there’s play change the bad part that’s moving. Ball joints jack the front suspension up under the control arm and use a bar to lift the wheel if there play change the lower ball joint. To check the upper with it jacked up push in on top of the wheel if there’s play change upper. Lower co trip arm bushings will take two people. Start truck and have wheel turned side to side and look for movement minor is ok a lot is bad.
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